Thermometer or temp gauge not working - not cooling at all
I had an appliance guy out in March for the temp not keeping steady the whole unit went warm, freezer and all. He replaced (for $329) what he called the 'computer' and it's been doing the same 'going warm and defrosting' for 2 months. I unplugged it for 48 hrs, plugged it back in and it was fine. There is a buzzing and a click sound in the back near the water intake but otherwise was working fine. This past week, it thawed again and after unplugging and plugging back in, nothing changed. I can't imagine for the cost of this that I have to replace 'the computer' again within the same year. Please advise! Thanks! Vikki
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Re: thermometer or temp gauge not working - not cooling...
If it was replaced within a year and you paid that much it seems that it should be under some sort of warranty. if so they should come out and fix it for free. the computer itself you can buy for less than a hundred dollars. but it could be a thermostat problem in which case could be less than 30 dollars. im attaching a link to a website where i have the parts list and prices where u can buy direct. if it is the computer again maybe u can buy it direct and have him just install and save the middle man price for the part
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when a temp gauge drops to cold ,it indicates a problem in the cooling system
temp gauge sender units need water to activate the resistance that makes the gauge read so a falling gauge indicates no water around the sender unit --- air lock in the system--faulty wire connection to the gauge sender unit
the ac unit is not connected to the temp gauge so there may be another separate problem there
the temp sensor is an entirely different unit to the temp gauge sender unit and the short term working would be from an altered coolant level from changing that sensor --air lock in system
the temp sensor connects to the ECM to activate the fans and monitor engine operating temp so as to keep the air/fuel mixture exact for the engine conditions
the temp sender unit just makes the temp gauge read
a faulty thermostat will either be stuck open and the engine temp will take a long time to rise or it will be stuck closed and that will cause an overheat very quickly
If your temp gauge has only the cold (C) or hot (H) letters then the operating range would be the width of the needle under 1/2 way between c and h. If it remains steady at slightly over 1/2 way that would be just the setting of the gauge. How to get to know where the needle would sit at a specific position in relation to water temp. Do the following Remove the temp sender unit and attach an earth wire to the body of the unit to earth. Place the sender unit in a container of water up to the threads .Put a mercury thermometer in the container beside the sender unit Apply heat to the container and watch the gauge needle move in relation to the thermometer reading. Operating temp will be about 80 degrees C on the thermometer and that would be about 1/2 way on the gauge.
Low engine coolant can keep temperature sensors from working correctly. Air or combution gasses being forced into the cooling system from a blown head gasket or cracked head can cause the same symptoms.
If you want to know if the temperature sensor is working, you must first be certain that the rest of the cooling system is working and only then can you determine if the sensor is "lying" to you. The actual engine temperature should be checked with an infrared thermometer and compared to the temperature sensor data in the onboard computer.
There is a coolant temperature sensor for the computer and there is a separate coolant temperature sending unit for the gauge. Comparing the two and verifying with an infrared thermometer is the best way to figure out what is going on.
You have something else going on. The tstat is probably sensing a remote temp. Is it hanging on the wall next to the furnace? Maybe warm air is coming from the furnace closet and fooling the tstat? Or an appliance or TV located too close to is, and heating it? If its quickly increasing the temp during unit operation only, it may be sensing air through the hole in the wall, directly being the tstat, where the wires come though to connect to the tstat. Try plugging that hole and test it. Or possibly the ceiling register that supplies air is facing the tstat, warming it by blowing hot air directly at it. If that's it, remove the grille and face it away. Not sure what else it may be. Hope this helps!
i wonder if possibly a defective thermostat, that it is sticking open. to bench test thermostat place in a pot,if you have a candy thermometer all the better ,place in cool water and bring to boil checking temp.it should open alittle at a time until being fully open at what ever temp it is rated at then slowly add cold water and it should close in a similar fashion
For Olson- most combination units have a diverter that allows you to balance the flow of frigid air between the fridge and freezer.
It may be located in the rear of your unit since the main cold air flow is done there.
Rockitman - not sure which temperature scale you are using - Olson specified 'F' and normal ranges for the refrigerator would be +35 to +45 degrees and freezer temps are recommended as -5 to 0 F.
+10 degrees F wouldn't ensure that food would be very well preserved.
Indeed, foods with any amount of salt in them may age at +10.
Thermal temp switch usualy located at the bottom of the radiator or the temp gauge sensor is sending wrong temp signal to gauge. Have you put radiator thermometer in radiator to test that its all working when its supposed to?