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My Admiral Capacity Plus dryer won't come on. Have checked the wall plug and I do have power. No light or anything. I have heard about the thermal fuse. How do I access the thermal fuse

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  • Jasonconner1 Dec 05, 2008

    I checked the thermal fuse with the white wires, everything appeared normal. How do you tell if it has gone bad? Or there some other areas I need to look?

  • Jasonconner1 Dec 05, 2008

    Sort of. I guess I need to give more information. I hope we are on the right track.

  • Jasonconner1 Dec 05, 2008

    My Admiral Capacity Plus Dryer is model # LNC7764A71. I would appreciate any further help

  • Jasonconner1 Dec 05, 2008

    Alrighty. That seems to make sense. The fuse your are talking about, is that the thermal fuse? I didn't see any other fuse in there en route to the door switch. My wife said the timer didn't go off at the end of the cycle, rather, it just shut off and won't turn on. Would you guess this is the door switch?

  • Jasonconner1 Dec 10, 2008

    I have replaced the door switch and the timer assembly and the dryer still won't come on. I do not see any fuses anywhere in the wiring other than the thermal fuse. What should I look for now. Just out of curiosity, what is the timer resistor assembly part that plugs onto the timer? Could that be it?

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I have looked at all the parts and diagrams of this dryer and have found nothing on a thermal fuse. i would check the connection on the power cord. maybe it came loose.

Posted on Dec 05, 2008

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Hi and welcome to FixYa,

I beg to differ on the thermal fuse. If it were the thermal fuse, then the unit will have power but will not heat up or stop. A possibility would be lid/door switch. In some versions, there would be even two. Test could be performed with a continuity tester (VOM or DVM)c set to lowest resistance at X1. When the lid/door is open, the switch will read infinity or very very high resistance, when they are close, the switch will read zero ohms. In the absence of a continuity tester, merely jumping the switch(es) temporarily should be enough to verify whether they are faulty or not.

Additional information perhaps could be more detailed if you could post the exact model number.

Should you find this posting informative and points you in the right direction, then pls ACCEPT. If however you decide to REJECT and/or request additional feedback, then further information from Benimur would no longer be viewable.

Good luck and Thank you for using FixYa.

Posted on Dec 05, 2008

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  • Louie  Role
    Louie Role Dec 05, 2008

    Hi again,

    Appreciate the quick postback. Somewhere inside the dryer, behind a panel or cover would be a wiring diagram. Pls see if you can find it. Should you have access to a voltmeter, the easiest check to follow would be to start from the AC plug, AC cord them to the inside of the unit. But, this is rather made difficult that you would be testing a live set. For safety reasons, perhaps you could perform the alternate, that would be continuity checks.

    I had a look at the schematic/wiring diagram. It would seem that there is a fuse and thereafter the powerline goes to the doorswitch. The other powerline goes directly to the timer assembly.

    If the cylinder light will not lit when the door/lid is open, then it is either the fuse or the doorswitch that is defective.

    Should you need the schematic/wiring diagram, pls click here. If that does not work, pls try http://www.partselect.com/ and input your model number (LNC7764A71) and click on the SEARCH button.

    Your update(s) on any development(s) would be appreciated.


  • Louie  Role
    Louie Role Dec 05, 2008

    The only thermal protection that I know of is connected to the heater. More importantly, your last post is very significant "timer didn't go off" as it could also be indicative that the timer might be in question. The fuse (if present) would be near or along the wire going to the door switch.

    Were you able to view the wiring diagram?


  • Louie  Role
    Louie Role Dec 10, 2008

    You are correct, the thermal fuse with terminals F1 & F2 would be the actual fuse. To test with a continuity tester, it should read zero ohms (0). Alternately for test purposes, it could be temporarily shorted/jumped.

    The timer resistor could be a compensator/limiter for the timer motor to continue functioning even if the other devices have switched off and finish its run.


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Press clips on front corners of top..lift top back rear just left of center is heating just below element connections is a small thermal fuse with white wires with meter ck for continuity if ck open replace it replacement comes with large thermostat with blue paper be sure to change both

Posted on Dec 05, 2008

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