I assume the oven has worked at one point? Does the broil still work?
This is my experience with my White-Westinghouse gas stove: The igniter bar is toast. There is 1 igniter bar each for the bake and broil (1 on top, 1 below). This is instead of a pilot light. Its an element that heats up to be hot enough to ignite the gas. If it doesn't get hot enough, the gas does not turn on and therefore not heat.
I went to my store and asked about this. "90+% of the time, that's the problem" So I bought a replacement and installed it myself. Problem fixed. Just had to undo a few screws to get at the bar, then connect the new one's wiring under the stove using marettes & some electrical tape, but the rest back together and that was it. I think the part cost me about $60-80 here in Winnipeg a few years ago. But it would've been at least that just for the guy to show up to look at the stove, never mind fixing it.
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Yes, it is very possible that when the bake element burned out, it may have shorted out to the case of the oven, and burned up the relay on the control board. If you have a voltmeter (and feel comfortable in doing this), remove the back of the oven, and measure the voltage across the bake elements when you set the oven to some bake temperature. Be careful, you are dealing with 240 volts AC here! IF you don't have any voltage anywhere near 240 V while on bake, then you probably have a bad electronic oven control. If you have just 120 volts, then check your voltage at your power cord or (better) at the junction box at the back of the range. You should have 120 volts from the center (white or green) wire to either the red or black wire; and 240 volts from the red to the black wire. Now IF you have 240 volts across the terminals of the bake element, then you may have gotten the wrong bake element (wrong wattage - lower watts than the original). Maybe you ordered the wrong one, or maybe they put the wrong one in the box.
Be sure you have 230 volts across the red and black wires at the terminal block the power cord attaches to. I suspect you have only one line to the range.
It is simpler to check a portion of the range first. Go to the relay board for the bake and broil elements. Check for incoming voltage between the red and black wires. You should have 230 volts all the time.
Set the oven control to bake at 350 degrees and check between the yellow and black wires that go to the bake element. You should have 230 volts. If you have 0 volts, check between the yellow wire that goes to the bake element and the black wire that goes to the terminal block of the range. If you have 230 volts here, the DLB relay on the relay board is bad. This will prevent bake and broil from working.
We can go through the relay board for the cooktop. I think it is best to eliminate one problem at a time.
How proficient are you with electrical wiring and electronics?
Just as a test to see if both elements are working, very carefully use a very damp (almost but not quite dripping) to touch the elements when the oven is just turned on. My problem was with the lower heating element, it was not heating. You have to do this before the oven heats because everything will be hot then.
After verifying it was not heating, I unplugged the oven and opened the back panel. I removed the leads from the malfunctioning heating element, attached the alligator leads of my volt meter, plugged the oven back in and turned oven on at 100 deg F; this will establish a potential. I measured voltage and got 26 VAC when I should have had ~240 VAC.
I swapped the orange and tan leads and saw the top element not work and the bottom did. Looking at the wiring diagram, I traced the problem to a relay on the control panel.
At this time I don't know yet if I can find a switch to replace the defective relay or if I need to replace the whole control panel. I sure hope I can replace the relay because the control panel will be ~$300.
Could be the bake igniter is bad and broil igniter is still good. may need to replace the bake igniter you will need a complete model number off range to determine the part number of the igniteryou may need.
Good chance your bake element is out. Could be the element or a terminal burned off. When you set to bake, normally it preheats which uses the bake and broil element. When it reaches "near" temp, the broil goes off and the bake takes over. If the bake element, (the one in the bottom), is not working, the temp will decline.
Check: Turn to 450 deg. Watch the elements, assuming you have a door with a glass, and see if both elements, top and bottom, glow red.
Sir, I think the top oelement is for broiling ONLY. It should not turn on when baking. The clicking may be the oven heating up.
How far apart were the oven temp instrument and the digital?
Don't expect them to match...they are inaccurate.
1. Heat water until it boils. Place digital therm in boiling water until it comes up to 212deg. If it is not at 212 in boiling water, record the error.(this gives a rough calibration to the digital)
2 Turn on oven, set to 350 deg, place digital therm on rack. Wait until oven reaches 350 (on stove) and read the digital. Note the difference between the two
Hi, try this and see if will help you. Most of the Gemini models are the same.
To set Bake:
1. Press the Bake pad.
• BAKE will flash.
• 000 will flash in the display.
2. Select the oven temperature. Press the
Autoset 0 pad for 350° F or the appropriate
• Each additional press of the Autoset 0 pad will increase
the temperature by 25 degrees.
• The oven temperature can be set from 170° to 550°.
3. Press Bake pad again or wait four seconds.
• BAKE will stop flashing and light in the display.