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Dryer operates but will not heat up.

There is continuity when a meter is connected to both ends of heating element. Thermal limiter closed when heat from heat gun was applied, had continuity. Control thermostat closed when heat was applied, also had 12.5 ohms between blue and org/blk connectors. High limit thermostat closed when heat was applied.

Additional symptons. Dryer will not operate unless press saver is in on position at all temperature settings.

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  • gregorymholt Dec 08, 2008

    The fix was, clean back or moisture sensor control board. Thank your for your help.

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Replace element.

Posted on Nov 02, 2012

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Check to see if your venting is plugged with lint or anything else. I had placed a new outside vent cover with a screen on it to keep the critters out of the vent pipe and that screen clogged up with lint. The dryer went thru all of its operations but the heat shut off right away because of this plugged vent.

Posted on Dec 04, 2008

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1 Answer

Dryer drum works but does not heat. Everything else works. I have checked the fuse and I have made sure it is not on air dry.


THERMAL FUSES MAY BE THE CAUSE OF THIS In recent years the makers of dryers are using thermal fuses to let you know something is wrong with your dryer. They are generally non resetting and have to be replaced. The thermal fuses are located on the heater element housing and should read continuity if read with an ohm meter. Most blown thermal fuses are the result of vent/air flow problems or a grounded heating element. Follow the diagram below to see how to check the continuity of the switch, and look closely at the switch to see a fairly close idea of what you are looking for, ok

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OR it could be a thermostat.
Cycle and safety thermostats-read them with an ohm meter. Should show continuity .

or lastly, it might be
the Heat elements-Test heater element with an ohm meter. You will read continuity across a good element ( 8-12 ohms is an average element ).

IF you do not have an OHM-METER, then you can check these issues by following the directions below:

To check the thermal fuse - You can bypass the thermal fuse (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.

To check the thermal cut-out - You can bypass the thermal cut-out (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.


To check the thermostats for continuity - - You can bypass the thermostat (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.

To check the Element: Try removing element and physically looking at the element wire for a break in the wire.


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Jan 24, 2011 | Frigidaire Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Dryer not heating - I replaced the heating element and it still isn't drying.


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Yes there is a thermal fuse and a hi limit switch. The hi limit switch is attached to the heating element casing. You said the heating element checks out If you checked it with an ohm meter and it checked out good. If you checked it visually double check it. The hi limit can be checked with an ohm meter it should show continuity. If you dont have a ohm meter you can jump the wires by connecting them using a paper clip or copper wire. Make sure to tape them with electric tape. The thermal fuse is connected with the Heating element and hi limit by one wire and is located at the bottom back of the dryer and slightly to the right as you face the back of the dryer. It is a small two wire fuse and once it trips you have to replace it you can check it and test it just like the hi limit switch. Be careful and always unplug the dryer before starting any repairs. I hope this help. If you need me to clarify anything just let me know. good luck

Aug 25, 2010 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

A Kennmore electric dryer, model 697267. Heating element checks out ok. Soninlaw said breakers are ok. Dryer drum turns but no heat? I'm 640 miles away, is there a thermal fuse in the circuit.


Yes there is a thermal fuse and a hi limit switch. The hi limit switch is attached to the heating element casing. You said the heating element checks out If you checked it with an ohm meter and it checked out good. If you checked it visually double check it. The hi limit can be checked with an ohm meter it should show continuity. If you dont have a ohm meter you can jump the wires by connecting them using a paper clip or copper wire. Make sure to tape them with electric tape. The thermal fuse is connected with the Heating element and hi limit by one wire and is located at the bottom back of the dryer and slightly to the right as you face the back of the dryer. It is a small two wire fuse and once it trips you have to replace it you can check it and test it just like the hi limit switch. Be careful and always unplug the dryer before starting any repairs. I hope this help. If you need me to clarify anything just let me know. good luck

Aug 25, 2010 | Dryers

3 Answers

Dryer not heating


The heating element have got old and brittle over time and finally gave up the ghost.73ad062.jpg But it is not always the element. It could be one of the safety Hi-limits have blown. All parts of the dryer will have continuity if its working properly. Test for continuity by using a meter set on Ohms. The next step is to check each little gizmo on the dryer that the wires attach to. All the limits attached to the side of the heat element, the door switch (when door is closed) etc.should have continuity (closed circuit)(the light should come on in the poor man's meter) If you come across an thing near the blower housing with 2 wires attached to it, that is a thermal limit, a safety or a control thermostat (So as not to get a false circuit you need to remove one of the wires to each thing you check) Look for lint buildup or blocked vent going out the house. If everything is good and you have paid the electric bill, then the timer could be bad.

Apr 19, 2010 | Dryers

1 Answer

The dryer is not heating


Hello there here is a list of things to check
Testing with an ohm meter checking on a dryer....
These are the places that pass voltage to the heater elements on an electric dryer. In order to check a dryer for no heat, here is a list of places to check. Remember to always unplug the appliance before starting testing with an ohm meter. Always remove wires from the part you are testing with an ohm meter ( write down what goes where first before removing any wires ).
Meter testing and usage tips.
1. Power supply-check power supply at terminal block where cord enters the dryer. Should read 240V. If you read 240V here, tested with a volt meter, unplug dryer and test components with ohm meter.
2. Thermostats-Cycle and safety thermostats-read them with an ohm meter. Should show continuity . How common thermostats work.
3.Timer-The timer has a set of contacts that pass voltage to the heaters. If you can not determine by wiring picture what they are, check across the two terminals with the largest wires on them. The heater wires are almost twice as large as the others. You should read continuity with timer in heat mode.
4. Thermal fuses-In recent years the makers of dryers are using thermal fuses to let you know something is wrong with your dryer. They are generally non resetting and have to be replaced. The thermal fuses are located on the heater element housing and should read continuity if read with an ohm meter. Most blown thermal fuses are the result of vent/air flow problems or a grounded heating element.
5. Selector Switches-Read the wiring picture and determine which switch is closed. You should read continuity across closed switches.
6. Safety Switch on Motor-There is a safety switch on motor to insure that heaters can not come on unless motor is running. It is normally open when the motor is idle/not running, and closes when motor runs. In order to check with an ohm meter, remove the two large wires on motor switch and make them electrically safe. Tape them. Plug the dryer in and start motor. Check continuity across the terminals on the motor switch you removed the heavy wires from. If it is ok you should read continuity. Remember that the smaller wires in a dryer carry the 120V and the large wires carry 240V. There is no voltage on these two terminals with wires removed. It is ok to test with ohm meter.
7. Heat elements-Test heater element with an ohm meter. You will read continuity across a good element ( 8-12 ohms is an average element ).
But darn it, I don't have a Ohm Meter....
To check the thermal fuse - You can bypass the thermal fuse (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only. To check the thermal cut-out - You can bypass the thermal cut-out (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.
To check the thermostats for continuity - - You can bypass the thermostat (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.
To check the Element: Try removing element and physically looking at the element wire for a break in the wire.

How to take apart information for GE style dryers
How to take apart information for Inglis - Whirlpool - Kenmore dryers
How to take apart information for Maytag dryers
How to take apart information for Frigidaire and White Westinghouse


Jan 09, 2010 | Dryers

1 Answer

How do i troubleshoot my kenmore model 110 electric dryer. it does not heat while it tumbles. How do I know for sure that it is the heating element.


ok first unplug dryer on the side of the heating element housing you will see the high limit switch black plastic with a sticker and a metal nose pull the 2 wires off check for continuity with ohm meter should be closed if it reads closed put wires back. Now look for a white ceramic rectangle piece it is a thermal fuse pull the wires and chech continuity if it shows closed it also is good. if either of these show open they need replaced. Now if both showed closed unplug wires from heating element check continuity should read continuity. if open element is broken. Now assuming this all shows good. Then it could be the timer or the centrifical switch on end of motor.

Jan 08, 2010 | Kenmore 84832 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Dryer operated but doesnt dry clothes. water


The heating element have got old and brittle over time and finally gave up the ghost. But it is not always the element. It could be one of the safety Hi-limits have blown. All parts of the dryer will have continuity if its working properly. Test for continuity by using a meter set on Ohms,or use a poor man's meter. You can make your own poor man's meter by using an ordinary flashlight . Break the circuit in the flashlight and add a couple of wires to it so that you can make the light come on in the flashlight, that's right hot wire that flashlight. When the bulb lights up you have a circuit! You now have a poor man's meter. The next step is to check each little gizmo on the dryer that the wires attach to. All the limits attached to the side of the heat element, the door switch (when door is closed) etc.should have continuity (closed circuit)(the light should come on in the poor man's meter) If you come across an thing near the blower housing with 2 wires attached to it, that is a thermal limit, a safety or a control thermostat (So as not to get a false circuit you need to remove one of the wires to each thing you check) Look for lint buildup or blocked vent going out the house. If everything is good and you have paid the electric bill, then the timer could be bad.

Nov 22, 2009 | GE DBVH512EFWW Dryer

1 Answer

Model # lte5243bw2 not heating has power into & out of heating element


Your reading power on both ends of the element, but you will read
'0 volts' across the element. You have got to check continuity 'through' the operating thermostat & the 'high limit thermostat' and the 'thermal fuse'. Either one of which will case 'no heat'. The motor contacts have to close after the motor is running. This could also case no heat.

Jul 09, 2009 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

Clothes dryer not producing heat


Check voltage at the receptacle first. The motor and timer operate on 120VAC. The heating element requires 208/240VAC to operate. Remove power from the unit. You can check the heating element, thermostats and thermal fuses using an ohm meter across each components terminals with one wire removed. The thermal fuses and thermostats should read zero ohms. The heating element will read low ohms (20 to 40). Successful heater operation still depends on the motor centrifugal switch being closed. Depending on the model, you need the heat circuit in the timer or electronic control to be closed.
I hope this helps you.

Apr 21, 2009 | Maytag Neptune MDG5500AW Gas Dryer

1 Answer

Kitchenaid superba dryer won't heat Where is the heater fuse located?


Q - My electric dryer runs but will not heat, what could stop my dryer from heating?
A - Things that could stop a electric dryer from heating:
- house fuse or breaker ( needs two of them ), heating element, burnt wire, thermostat(s), thermal fuse ( not all models ), motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, burnt power cord/plug.
A ohm meter test for these parts is here.
Q - My gas dryer will not heat, what could stop my dryer from heating?
A - Things that could stop a gas dryer from heating:
- glow bar igniter, thermal fuse ( not all models ), coils on the gas valve, gas valve, thermostats,motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, sensor.
A page for checking gas dryers is here.
Meter testing and usage tips.
1. Power supply-check power supply at terminal block where cord enters the dryer. Should read 240V. If you read 240V here, tested with a volt meter, unplug dryer and test components with ohm meter.
2. Thermostats-Cycle and safety thermostats-read them with an ohm meter. Should show continuity . How common thermostats work.
3.Timer-The timer has a set of contacts that pass voltage to the heaters. If you can not determine by wiring picture what they are, check across the two terminals with the largest wires on them. The heater wires are almost twice as large as the others. You should read continuity with timer in heat mode.
4. Thermal fuses-In recent years the makers of dryers are using thermal fuses to let you know something is wrong with your dryer. They are generally non resetting and have to be replaced. The thermal fuses are located on the heater element housing and should read continuity if read with an ohm meter. Most blown thermal fuses are the result of vent/air flow problems or a grounded heating element.
5. Selector Switches-Read the wiring picture and determine which switch is closed. You should read continuity across closed switches.
6. Safety Switch on Motor-There is a safety switch on motor to insure that heaters can not come on unless motor is running. It is normally open when the motor is idle/not running, and closes when motor runs. In order to check with an ohm meter, remove the two large wires on motor switch and make them electrically safe. Tape them. Plug the dryer in and start motor. Check continuity across the terminals on the motor switch you removed the heavy wires from. If it is ok you should read continuity. Remember that the smaller wires in a dryer carry the 120V and the large wires carry 240V. There is no voltage on these two terminals with wires removed. It is ok to test with ohm meter.
7. Heat elements-Test heater element with an ohm meter. You will read continuityacross a good element ( 8-12 ohms is an average element ).
But darn it, I don't have a Ohm Meter....
To check the thermal fuse  - You can bypass the thermal fuse (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.To check the thermal cut-out  - You can bypass the thermal cut-out (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.
To check the thermostats for continuity -  - You can bypass the thermostat (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.
To check the Element: Try removing element and physically looking at the element wire for a break in the wire.

How to take apart information for GE style dryers
How to take apart information for Inglis - Whirlpool - Kenmore dryers
How to take apart information for Maytag dryers
How to take apart information for Frigidaire and White Westinghouse
How to take apart information for Admiral, Norge, Magic Chef and Crosley

Mar 30, 2009 | KitchenAid Dryers

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