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Re: Dryer turns on but no heat,
Q - My electric dryer runs but will not heat, what could stop my dryer from heating? A - Things that could stop a electric dryer from heating: - house fuse or breaker ( needs two of them ), heating element, burnt wire, thermostat(s), thermal fuse ( not all models ), motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, burnt power cord/plug. A ohm meter test for these parts is here. Q - My gas dryer will not heat, what could stop my dryer from heating? A - Things that could stop a gas dryer from heating: - glow bar igniter, thermal fuse ( not all models ), coils on the gas valve, gas valve, thermostats,motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, sensor. A page for checking gas dryers is here
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A defective heating element can make a dryer too hot. If the element partially shorts out, it can produce heat all the time, regardless of whether the dryer is calling for heat. Remove the heating element to inspect it. The coils should not be touching each other or anything else.
Other Causes and Conditions
Air Flow Problem
Dryers need good ventilation to work properly. If the vent is clogged it can make the dryer too hot. Clean all of the vent tubing thoroughly.
Although not common, a defective cycling thermostat can make the dryer too hot. The cycling thermostat is supposed to turn on and off the heat to maintain the proper temperature. If the thermostat is defective it may keep the heat on too long. The thermostat is not adjustable or repairable, it must be replaced.
Most dryers have a felt seal at the front and rear of the drum to keep the heat inside the drum. If the felt seal is worn away or missing, the dryer may keep heating and make the dryer too hot. This is not common.
A defective blower wheel will not spin properly and will not vent the hot air, making the dryer too hot. Check to see if there is adequate airflow out of the dryer.
depending on which model roper dryer it can be a thermal fuse,high-limit thermostat,cycling switch,burned off wire in control panel,check each side of the heating element to ground and find 125 v.a.c. then on the side of the element that has low or no voltage on it to ground start at the element and back track the components leading to the dead leg on the element till you find 125 vac to ground and replace or repair component or wire,then you should get 240 to 250vac across heating element terminals
Your model which we call the 417, is not usually easy to work on. The heating element is located behind the dryer drum. The drum has to be removed to change the element. There is a lot involved but given the cost of a stack unit the element and labor may be worth it.
It sounds like you replaced the heating element and the small thing you refer to was most likely the thermal fuse. If these are the components that you replaced, and if they are indeed good, the next thing to look at if the dryer is not heating up is the high limit thermostat. It is most likely faulty if the element and thermal fuse are good. Hope this helped and best wishes. Here is a picture of a thermal fuse and high limit thermostat to help you figure out what is what.
your cycling thermostat needs changed too. the thermal fuse is your last safety measure that goes, which means your cycling thermostat is not shutting down the heat element once it detects the right temp hot air in the blower housing so it let the heat element glow until either the high-limit sensor shuts the heat down or the thermal fuse blows. Change the cycling thermostat and good luck
The model number you provided suggests that the lint screen is on top of the dryer, right? If so, the heating element can be accessed from behind the dryer by removing the rear panel. Of course, you should know this already since you stated you've already replaced the thermostat and fuse. The heating element is located on the right-hand side as you are looking at the dryer from the rear. There are TWO components on the heater housing. One is the high limit thermostat, one is a thermal cut-out. Are these the components you mentioned replacing? BOTH should read a short (0 ohms) when measuring resistance with the dryer turned off. If you haven't replaced both of them, double check to see if they are both good. The high limit thermostat will be located closest to the ceramic heater connection. The thermal cut-out will be mounted to the heater box. Perform a resistance check of the heating element as well. Measure across the leads of the heating element at the ceramic terminal connection. It should read between 8 - 13 ohms if good. If your readings prove that the heater is bad, it can be removed by using a 5/16" hex drive. The heating element should slide out the bottom of the heater box housing. Sometimes removing the heater box, and then removing the heating element is easier.
Your dryer is also equipped with an electronic cycle control board under the control panel that goes bad from time to time. This also may affect the dryer heating circuits. Inspect the small circuit board for any obvious signs of burned components.
I hope this information is helpful to you. If I'm wrong about your dryer configuration, please post back with comments, so I can give you proper instructions.
CAUTION: Make sure you UNPLUG the dryer prior to making any resistance checks. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off.
PS I hope I'm not insulting your intelligence, here. As a rule, I tell everyone this information because some are not as savvy as others.
If this is a Kenmore, have you checked the thermal cut-out or high-limit thermstat? Does the drum turn when you start the dryer?
If the drum turns, but does not heat, you will need to check the thermal cut-out (located on the heating element housing). The TCO should read a SHORT (0 ohms) or very low resistance. If it is OPEN, replace it along with the high-limit thermostat. In most cases the two components are sold as a set and are recommended to replaced as a set by the manufacturer.
Reason: The TCO is designed to protect the heating element and thermostat in the event of an overtemp condition. If the TCO is bad, there's a likely chance that the thermostat could be damaged.
If the TCO reads good, you may have a thermostat that is failing. The high limit thermostat operates normally in the CLOSED (shorted) position and will OPEN at or around 157 degrees F. It is located on the heating element housing adjacent to the TCO. If the thermostat has failed the dryer will tumble, but will not heat. Follow the same recommendation as for replacement of the TCO. Replace both components as a set.
Now...if the dryer drum does not spin, the likely cause is the thermal FUSE. It will be mounted on the blower housing near the blower fan. It is usually white (plastic) in color on Kenmore models. It should read a SHORT. If it fails the dryer will not spin or heat.
Post back with your comments or questions. I hope I'm leading you in the right direction.