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Re: Booster Motor Stayes on after end of heating cycle
Check the following: Flame sensor, this is a lil probe somewhere next to your ignitor. It senses flame and will cause the inducer/booster fan to keep running. Check continuity between your limits on the exchangers, and the main auxilary limit, if a broken circuit then it will also cause the unit to act eratically. If those check out, try your pressure switch, when the heating cycle begins ensure your getting 24 volts in one leg and out the other.
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There are one or two hi-limit relays on the booster. One is on the front and if there is a second one, it is on the right hand side as you face the front of the unit. They are both manully have to be reset if tripped. Check them and also the booster's contacter
The control unit on the tumble dryer will vary among
different makes and models. The main purpose of the controls is to allow
the user to select the drying cycle. You can choose the time and
temperature setting on most units, while others allow custom settings
such as moisture sensors and end-of-cycle alert signals. The controls
may include a dial or a touch panel and LED screen display. Some tumble
dryers allow you to independently select the appropriate time for the
load you are drying and separate programs for temperature.
The motor inside the tumble dryer spins the basket to allow
the clothes to tumble while being dried. The tumbling action allows the
air to pass through the clothing to dry them faster. Heating laundry
that is stagnant will likely dry the clothing on the outside while
leaving damp clothing inside the pile. The constant motion, along with
the heat and steam created by heating the clothing, reduces wrinkles.
The motor also powers the fan that delivers the heated air to the basket
of laundry. The heater can be an electrical element or gas powered.
Hello - Typically error code AD indicates that the Auto Dry option has been selected. Using no heat in any Auto Dry cycle will result in long drying times and/or wet loads at the end of cycle. I would suggest selecting other option or resetting the unit. You may either unplug it or flip the household breaker off for approximately two minutes. Restart unit, select a normal cycle and verify if it will heat. If the dryer does not heat the unit it could possibly have a faulty heating element, blower assembly or a communication problem with the control panel.Contact a professional to move forward accurately.
Hello Patty Hanna - Typically error code AD indicates that the Auto Dry option has been selected. Using no heat in any Auto Dry cycle will result in long drying times and/or wet loads at the end of cycle. I would suggest selecting other option or resetting the unit. You may either unplug it or flip the household breaker off for approximately two minutes. Restart unit, select a normal cycle and verify if it will heat. If the dryer does not heat the unit it could possibly have a faulty heating element, blower assembly or a communication problem with the control panel.Contact a professional to move forward accurately.
How long does it stay in the wash cycle? Indefinitely? Does the display continuously show "WASH"?. If it stays in the wash cycle indefinitely (i.e. continuously shows "WASH" for significantly beyond approx. 3 minutes), it's probably a control board malfunction. If it continues to wash after the "WASH" indicator goes out, it could be a shorted wash motor relay on the relay board or a fauly control board.
If the internal rinse water booster heater doesn't reach it's programmed setpoint temperature in time, the dishwasher will run an extended wash cycle to give the booster heater more time to finish heating the rinse water. If this is what's happening, the wash cycle would last approximately 3 minutes, then it would rinse regardless of whether the booster heater has finished heating or not.
The booster temperature thermistor may be bad, giving a false booster temperature reading, causing an extended wash cycle as described above. The booster heater elements or contactor may be bad, preventing the booster heater from heating and reaching proper temperature, also causing the same extended wash cycle to give the booster more time to heat.
The dishwasher has a built in instantaneous water heater, so even if the water feeding the d/w is cold the machine will heat it the the temp required for the cycle you have choosen. Reducing the temp will not effect the wash quality at all, in fact having a lower temp or cold water filling the machine will make the drying cycle at the end of the program more effective.
Hope this helps, please leave feedback.
Hi; I need more info. Do You mean the outdoor unit is stoping and starting while running in a call for heat by the tstat. When heat pumps run if the temperature out side reaches low enough the outside unit will go into a defrost cycle to remove any build up of frost or ice. If the outdoor unit has a dirty coil or a low freon issue this also can trick the unit into a premature defrost cycle. Now here is another scenerio.If Your ac is running in the cool mode and stops prematurly there could be several problems. Low freon level, faulty fan motor causing the compressor to go into a freon bypass mode wich sounds very spewy. Please tell me if you are in heat mode.. Also how old is the unit. Sometimes a severly worn control contactor can disallow all the needed voltage to cross over to Your fan motor and compressor. Watch unit while its acting up... Also when unit goes into a sceduled defrost the fan will stop this is normal and will restart when the unit comes out off defrost You will here this big swoosh sound. Thats the freon being redirected back into the heating path.Let me know...alpharome416
3 Con, is the booster heat contactor. If it is chattering, the fault will be in the booster. There are a few different boosters in the AM14. can you post the ML number from the data plate, or describe if the booster is a square Hatco HCM-10, or a round stainless booster with a 13 kw multi wired element.. All boosters use a low water cut off circuit, a high limit thermostat and a control thermostat. The old Hatcobooster uses mechanicqal components, where the new rount tank uses probes and a control board. The board has 3 leds. red is calling for heat, yellow is open thermistor, and green is shorted thermistor.
AM14's had a variety of different control circuit voltages, ranging from 240/208/120 and 24 volt AC. Check the transformer secondary for correct output to controls, trace through circuit until voltage pulses. If new style, it could be just scaled up probes not reading water. Drain the tank with the power off before removing probes.
Water-heating cycle Timer Water-heating cycle
Manydishwashers heat the wash and/or rinse water to a higher temperature,as the cycle calls for it. In these cycles, the dishwasher pauses afterit has filled with water, waiting for the water to reach the pre-settemperature. What happens next, depends, as follows:
On some units, the pause is timed and the unit continues after the allotted time.
Onothers, the cycle can't continue until the water reaches the highertemperature. If you have this type of dishwasher and the water isn'tbeing heated (say, because of a problem with the heating element orthermostat), after the unit stops at the heating cycle, it nevercontinues. When you repair the heating-system problem, the "cycleproblem" is fixed too.
Timersdon't often fail. But if every other part of the dishwasher seems to beworking properly and the timer knob seems to be stuck in oneplace--doing one function continuously--the timer may be at fault.Dishwasher timers can't be repaired. If yours is defective, replace it.