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Re: Door operators when it is disconnected
You might have a broken spring. Check on the a the header above the door there should be a tude with a drum on each end and 2 springs (maybe one) towards the center. If one of the springs has a gap (1-2 inches) in it. If it does you will need to call a door company in your area. I recommend you replace both springs. If you need to get you cars out some times you can help the operator to lift the door by lifting the door while the operator is lifting the door. Be very careful not to get your fingers in a pinch point and be sure to lower the door the same way.
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take some toilet paper, or some very light rag and dust the RPM sensor over, under, inbetween and in every spot on that darn thing, and bingo, it will work. Its the plastic ribed piece mounted on the end of the motor under opener cover. If something gets under door as door starts to go down, the RPM`s will slow and thats a warning to stop and go back up. With it being dusty, it can`t sense the RPM`s properly and goes into an alarm every single time. Ugg
CHECK TO SEE HOW THE DOOR WORKS MANUALLY - DISCONNECTED FROM THE OPENER. IF YOU CAN'T LIFT IT EASILY THE SPRING MAY NEED TO BE ADJUSTED OR REPLACED.
IF IT LIFTS EASILY BY HAND THEN LUBE (WHITE LITHIUM OR WD-40) THE SPRINGS, HINGES AND OPENER RAIL - TRY IT AGAIN, IF IT STILL REVERSES ADJUST THE OPEN SENSITIVITY 1/8 TURN AT A TIME IF IT TAKES MORE THAN 3/4 OF THE ADJUSTMENT RANGE OR STILL DOESN'T WORK I WOULD HAVE IT LOOKED AT BY A PRO. SOME THINGS YOU CAN LOOK RIGHT AT AND NOT SEE.
Anytime a door opens and/or closes randomly or doesn’t work consistently I look for a smashed wire between the motor unit and the wall button.
If the wire is smashed the insulation becomes so thin that power will leak thru the insulation and activate the door or interfere with the remote signal.
Loosen the staples with a small screwdriver and slide the wire about ½ inch to move any areas of thin insulation away from the staples.
The second thing would be a bad wall button or a remote with a sticking button.
Or a remote in someone’s purse that gets the button pushed by other stuff in the purse.
The test is to disconnect the push button wires at the power unit. If the self operation / interference stops you have located the problem. If you reconnect the wires and disconnect the wire at the wall button this will tell you if the problem is the wire or the button.
In your case the expansion of the wall in the afternoon may be enough to cause pressure on the wire to increase the problem.
1.Check to see if the door is running correctly. A. Run the door down and pull the emergency release. See if the door will run easily by itself.
1. If it runs hard by hand try lubricating the rollers and hinges with silicone spray or some form of lubricant (not WD 40)
2. If the door is heavy and falls back to the ground, you probably have a spring issue (either broken or needs more tension) in this case call a professional door repair company in your area.
B. If the door runs fine then check the up force on your operator (the box that hangs from the ceiling and reads Craftsman). If the light(s) on your operator go from front and/or back, the force adjustment screw is on the back of the operator. If the lights are on the sides of the operator then the force adjustment screw is on the right side (looking from the back of the operator and facing the garage door). Turn the light blue adjustment screw with the up arrow to a higher number.
Take the back cover off and see if the Gear that turns the shaft that operates the chain to lift or close is in good condition.
The gear is probably plastic and 3" or 4" in diameter.
UNPLUG THE OPENER AND DISCONNECT THE POWER BEFORE DOING THE ABOVE.SAFETY IS ALWAYS FIRST.