Control and amplification circuit boards are not recieving power

Is there any fuses inside the unit or just the one on the back inside that cylindrical fuse holder that you can push, twist and remove? Mine will not power and I want to open up the box if there is any fuses there and I will check for cracks near the pots, etc. as well while I am inside the power box. I already removed the box fromt heback. Just need to open it up now.

Hello Kyle;

My name is Peter. I am a retired field service appliance technician.

You have 3 sensors in your unit, a thermal sensor, a position sensor and a door lock switch. These components will prevent you from running but, would not affect your power.

I assume you checked your circuit breaker to make sure you have power to your washing machine.

The slightest change in power supply, electrical power surge or power outage will knock out your boards. Magnetic fields and static electricity will knock out your boards. Are your appliances near a main power supply line in your home?

All appliance manufacturers recommend surge protectors if you have control boards in your appliance. Individual wall socket surge protectors cost about $20.00 at your local Home Depot or where ever. This is a good investment.

Ok, your have 3 control boards in your unit. One is the digital display board which has nothing to due with power supply.

The others are your main control board and your control panel board. Each of which can turn off power. The highest probability is the main control board. The part number for this board is EBR 44289820. The part cost $225.00 locally. You can probably get it for $180.00 if you search the internet. This is item A450 on the following link.


Remember static electricity can not out a board. Ground yourself by rubbing your hands over something that is steel. Either unplug your unit or turn the power off at your household fuse box. There are several clips holding the board in the casing. you must push outward to remove the board. Inspect the circuit back side for burn marks. If there are no burn marks you can still have a board component failure. DO NOT DISCONNECT ANY CONNECTOR PLUG IN. When you replace the board, you will replace one at a time.

No. This "hometheather in a box" requires this main unit. It does not work like a standard powered sub.

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/errol_d9136f6673806a35

Is the wall receptacle defective? Have you plugged something else into the same wall receptacle without circuit breaker activating? Test with another appliance that also has the third round ground prong. If this is not the problem then yes an electrical short exists within the treadmill, inspect the cord itself for loose prongs, there may be liquid damage inside from a previous liquid spillage which would cause an electrical short.

Cyclic resetting can be the protection circuit kicking in due to one or more of many possibilities.
Some common failures which can cause self-protection:
Insufficient ventilation/ cooling (overheat);
Excess dust (arcing);
Shorting components (overload);
Open circuits (components, tracks or dry solder-joints);
Incorrect load (eg speakers blown or loose wires).....

see this and replace if necessary. God bless you
Main Control Module / CCU
The main control unit is the circuit board located behind the console. If the door switch tests good the main control is usually the problem. Check all connections for a goood tight fit. You will need to refer to the tech sheet or service manual to check this further. The main control is easy to replace.

Motor Control Module

The motor Control Module is located inside the cabinet down near the motor. This recieves the signals from the main control module then relays this information to the motor. Check all connections sometimes a communcation problem is just a loose connection. The Motor Control Module is easy to replace. To check this further you will need to refer to your tech sheet or service manual.

If the treble is good and is working then the failure to adjust or increase bass output even when it is done can be due to faulty OP-AMP in the BASS circuit. The BASS frequency must be enhance with an amplification and a pass filter with amplification boost and so a failure of this stage can be the reason for non action.You will need to have a signal test on the bass section to confirm the faulty IC.Check for poor solder joint and faulty capacitors/controls.

Do not replace a part until you have proved with a signal and circuit test that there is absence of amplification. So I would suggest that you replace the original IC back to the circuit so that we start allover again.
Now you will need a signal tester- an audio frequency( AF) testor so that you can apply the signal and trace. Check the power to the subwoofer output and the main outputs. If present check with signal , check the parameters of the IC to confirm if there is amplification and BIAS to the circuit.
Once confirmed check the feeder resisitors,capacitors, check if any of them is open/short. If not recheck IC and replace once again from original source of spares.

You're quite right when a fuse blows there's a short. The short will be in either the power supply section, or the main amp. You will be looking for a semi-conductor of some sort. A multi meter on the ohm setting will track it down quick if it's a transistor. As the meter scale will be just like you have touched the probes together. Follow the circuit back from the fuse. Check any part that you suspect. If the sub uses an IC power amp, it could be a strong suspect!

My manual shows 4 different fuses.....The Outside SubWoofer fuse is a T2A 250V....Inside the Subwoofer There is a T4A 250V....I couldn't see the other fuse, and I assumed it was the same, then I find on the inside of the manual there is also a T1.6A 250V and a F200mA 250V
I have been trying to call Customer Service at 1-800-846-3000 but it's always busy.....