Question about Televison & Video
Bob, You suggested that the loss of picture and sound - restored sometimes with a loud pop, other times by turning off and waiting - is a Power supply soldering problem. We readers should send you the board?
How do I get to and remove the PS board and what do you charge for this "100% reliable" repair?
I have never stated "100% reliable". I have simply not ever had a failure yet to make the set work again, as long as the set is working properly when turned on before the board is removed and sent, just experiencing intermittent trouble events after warming up. Hopefully that's good enough for you, as you seem to be a little skeptical. If it does not make your set work and you need to get a new board to replace yours, I will refund half what I charge but will keep the other half, just for trying. This refund policy hasn't needed to be implemented yet, in all the dozens of boards that have been sent to me so far from all over the continent - including Canada - but that's my promise to you.
One thing is very important, and I can't stress it enough: STOP USING YOUR SET NOW. Things could get much worse if you do. That means NOW, even if you are watching it now. A deadly spike caused by the bad solder joints currently on that power supply board could be getting ready to be produced by a connection that is getting ready to separate as we speak, and that spike could take out one of the boards downline. One guy who called me had kept using his set for months with these intermittents happening, and eventually both the converence and the deflection boards went out, both in an instant. The set would not turn on again. With 3 boards to now have to deal with, he decided not to get his set repaired at all, due to the now tripled expense. It tears my heart out when one of these fine machines goes down for the count because of misuse - continued use when it's obviously hurt - and is then DNR'd by its owner. That all could have been avoided by taking action promptly rather than continuing to tempt fate, on his part.
Send me an email requesting it, and I'll send you back an emailout on how to remove it, what it costs, how to wrap it and send it, where to send it, etc. I can't divulge certain aspects of all this on the net here, must keep some of it close to the vest. Will be glad to tell you personally, by email or on the phone.
I will tell you this much - I charge $275 for the resoldering op, you pay the shipping both ways. That's less than it costs to get a board from Pio and have a local Pio warranty station install it.
Keeping the same board in your set rather than replacing it is the way to go, IMHO. That way the voltages it was set up with originally, stay the same. If you get a replacement board, those voltages can be very different, affecting the precision of settings downline. Voltage regulation only has to fall within certain parameters, so different PS boards will produce different sets of voltages. The best way to retain your precision in downline sets of settings is to keep your original board in the set, the one your set was originally set up at the factory with.
To find the PS board, follow the power cord from the wall. It will lead you right to it. Use the big bubble-wrap to send it rather than the small stuff, and box it in an oversized box for the journey.
I keep the return date to you within 2 weeks of arrival here, and sooner if at all possible. But this time of year things get really busy for me, as everyone wants their display up and running for the holidays. I will do my best to get it back to you promptly.
email: bob at imageperfection dot com
Posted on Dec 04, 2008
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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