Question about Samsung LTM1755 17 in. HD-Ready LCD Television
I have had this tv for 4 years, and recently the power light on the bottom right front of the tv started flashing when we would attempt to turn on the tv. When it would turn solid green, the screen would light. Full picture, no issues. The flashing would occur for a longer and longer period of time, with each power-up, then the tv would come on. This went on for a week. Then, finally one day, we turned on the tv and the power light turned solid red. No picture. Is this a repairable problem, or am I better off buying a new tv after cost to repair? Any help greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance. Greg
I had a 26" Samsung LCD that wouldn't turn on, and the red light stayed on too, so I knew it was getting power. I found some info out there and figured out how to fix it. Also made a video to show others. I'm a complete newb so if I can do it, I know a lot of others can too. Make sure you research stuff and be safe when fixing it. I take no responsibility if you mess up your own TV! But like I said, I fixed it, so I figured almost anyone can. Also, it only cost me $1.40.
Posted on Oct 18, 2010
I take a hair drier and put it under the tv where the stand that comes with them has been removed. I held the hair drier up to the hole in the bottom for about thirty seconds and it would then come on.
The only time I have trouble getting it to turn on is when it has been off for a long period of time.
I hope this helps
Posted on Aug 01, 2009
You need only add. cap 2200uF/25V in paralel to a 47uF 25v in main board.
Is all you need. :o)
Posted on Jul 18, 2009
If you poke a few small holes in the LCD display on the front of the screen, not many maybe about 4" apart, like a matrix, the added air flow will continually cool down the screen and allow it to power up normally. If you don't believe me just try it, worked for me.
Posted on Sep 14, 2008
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Problem: Samsung LTM1755B with only a blinking yellow LED when you try to turn it
Solution: I just had one of these come in. I opened it up, and found the U501 capacitor a little suspicious looking, in that it had a deformed top. It was a 470uF 16V electrolytic 105degC 10mm x 12mm. I replaced it with a very good quality 1000uF 16V electrolytic 105degC 10mm x 16mm Nichicon UHN1C102MPD. After that repair, when I tried to turn it on, the LED was yellow for a second, then green, then I got a picture, and it appeared to work great. I then asked the owner a week later how it was working, and they said it was working just like new!
Posted on Jan 19, 2010
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