I have a Peavey Session 500 Mark IV guitar amplifier that cuts in and out on the output. I have cleaned the contact points with contact cleaner, but I am not sure that is the problem.
I can play through it awhile and it will the just cut down on volume. I can move the gain knob and put a large amount of gain to it and it will pop really loud and then come back on, sometimes.
Could this be a power supply problem or do you deal with guitar amps at all?
Re: Peavey Session 500 Mark IV guitar amp sound loss
Proud owner of a session 500 here
had this problem from day one
brought in it for warrantee repairs many times
in the end, the shops could do nothing
they were lost
i tinker in electronics so i tore it down myself
after looking closely, i came to the reasoning that it was a cold solder joint
i took my soldering iron and redid every solder point on the boards
also cleaned the jacks while i was at it
reassembled it and fired it up
never had trouble since
i fixed it where the repair shop gave up trying
if you can solder, go for it and take it easy
An expert who has written 20 answers of more than 400 characters.
An expert who has answered 20 questions.
Re: Peavey Session 500 Mark IV guitar amp sound loss
Electronics get things called dry joints, this is where the soldered components become insulated from their surrounding components intermittently. This usually manifests itself some years in use.
The symptoms are just like you describe the system cuts in and out.
I have repaired heaps of these over the years and it takes patience with a magnifying glass and a hot soldering iron to repair..
Id start with the socket connections on the main circuit board where you push cables in and them pulll them out again...as thats where mechanical pressure is
placed onto the conection between the socket and the circuit board.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Transfer Channel 2 speakers to Channel 1 to check if it does put out a sound. If it does, it means that your Channel 2 amplifier is defective. However, if it doesn't, then your Channel 2 speaker is defective. So, have this checked to find out the result. Defective items needs replacement or be repaired. Send us your e-mail for the result so we can further extend our assistance.
I would try using an electronic cleaner on the pot(s) to see if that helps. Many times either the surface of the coil, the wiper, or both become contaminated with excessive residue and fail as you describe. Shaking it or moving it quickly sometimes removes enough of the contamination for it to temporarily function again. But if you clean all of the gunk off, it will work like new. Try this inexpensive Radio Shack product. If it doesn't fix the problem, you'll need to replace the pot.
Hope this helps. If it does, please rate as "FixYa".
You have dirty potentiometer (pot) controls. Unfortunately to clean them properly you will have to remove the amplifier from the wooden cabinet. If you're not comfortable doing this then send it to a local musical instrument/amp repair shop.
1) Disconnect AC power (duh)
2) After carefully documenting all connections, unplug/disconnect speaker, footswitch and the reverb wires on the back of the amplifier.
3) Look for four screws along top of wood cabinet that hold the inverted amplifier in place (thank you Leo Fender). Normally there is a wood block that will prevent the amplifier chassis from dropping down as the four screws are removed BUT assume nothing.
4) When amplifier is completely free from the cabinet top, carefully slide it out the backside.
5) Up on the bench avoid the filter capacitors (look like a C size battery) in the amplifier chassis located over by the AC power cord as they may still hold an electrical charge.
6) Look for the three terminals exiting each pot along the front of the amplifier chassis. Using a PLASTIC SAFE tuner/control cleaner/lube (Radio Shack Model 64-4315/Catalog #64-4315) aim the extension nozzle into the open area where the three terminals enter the pot.
7) Turn the pot knob CW/CCW while dispensing a small amount of.the control cleaner. Repeat with all controls.
8) Re-assemble (don't forget to reconnect all the wiring from step #2) and download a couple of new guitar TAB's for proper testing inspiration.....Glen :-)
Unless there is a 240/120 switch on the back, this amplifier cannot change voltage. The only way is to replace the power transformer, and when you do that you need to use the exact model transformer Peavey uses for the 120 version. I have also seen differences in handling power outside of just a different transformer for USA/Euro models.
The differences between these two market models might be beyond what is cost-effective to convert.
You can send it to JL Audio and they will fix the output stage you toasted and will also perform any mods or upgrades to bring it up to spec. This will set you back $ 180.00 plus shipping cost to send it to JL. I know it's expensive but you damn near get a whole new amp to rock your world. mark..
The Peavey A/B controls are output gain controls. Your mixers stereo output goes into the amps inputs, channels A & B. The Peavey is the output stage to your speaker system. If you you connect the outputs from a power amp to the inputs of a mixer you will blow the mixers input stage, amongst many other things and possibly damage the amplifier too. The bias (Bass, Mid, Treble controls) are on the mixer, not the amplifier. Unless you are using a mixer amp, which you are not. A PA system DOES NOT work in the same way as an intergrated hi fi amp.