Rheem/Ruud are the same equipment with different stickers; they come off the same assembly line. 1) check that you have full air flow: all the vents are open and clear, the return grill is clear and the filter is CLEAN. 2) On the older models there are 2 each 1/4" screws on the air handler that have to be removed and that allows the panel where the FACTORY FILTER is located. If you have a filter in your return air grill, remove the factory filter, if not, leave it in and remember to clean it. While the bottom cover is open, look at the fan to see if it is clogged. DO NOT put your hands in there unless the main power to the A/H is OFF! 3) Go outside to the condenser and you will see a small red or green button at the bottom of the control panel access. Press it. If it clicks and the unit comes on, either the air flow inside is too low (see above) or the unit is overcharged with refridgerant. If everything is clean and there it plaenty of air flow, you will need a technician with the proper gauges, tools and knowledge to set the charge correctly. Be smart: price shop and get references. Ron
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Hello Anna Sounds like the compressor is overheating and stoping on overload internally.Then it cools down restarts and runs into overload again.I would like to see the freon pressures when running.Could have a clog/restriction in piping.I dont like that you went thru a compressor already, the original installition is suspect.The original (1st) failure cause must be corrected.Check the TXV valve replace, filter/dryer look for a kinked pipe are ideas for overheating.Make sure condenser coil is free (ari flow)& clean also.
Tried this on my unit today, and observed the same results, but got Aux Heat (with A setting), if the H (blue wire) connected to B terminal, as per instructions for my 6036 Ritetemp. However, in this case, when the set temp is reached, I hear the click, but HVAC still blows aux heat indefinitely.
I also have RUUD UBEA 17J10..., and replaced my old honeywell with 6036, and can't get heat pump working. Both of my units are 14 years old, so I'm thinking to replace them soon.
Your reversing valve is out. Or you have a electrical problem sending signal to the reversing valve. The valve switch from puting cooling in you home to putting heating in. You may need to call a tech you need special tools like a amp prob to look at the power. www.fastacservice.com
you may have airflow issues, verify the inlet and outlet temps with the unit running on start up, if the unit exceeds the "rise" allowable then the safety devices "overtemp" will take the firing circuit off line until it cools down. The acceptable mfg. rise is listed on the nameplate inside the burner chamber, (generally on the side wall)
is it a heat pump? I would be suspect of the line voltage transformer have 24v. if transformer is not matched to line voltage you can have erratic problems their is an under lying problem. that is being missed find a good contractor . Tom
A "Heat-Pump" is also known as a reverse cycle air conditioner, this means on heat the outdoor unit acts like the indoor section and vice versa. So in all probability you need to have it leak checked and recharged.
check to see if the fan is working at the condensing unit. if it is, check that the fan is pulling heat off the unit as it should. make sure the cage is clean. no restrictions as far as air flow. clean . check duct work for leaks. inside, if you replaced the filter/s. the evaporator is dirty. call a prof,
There are only 2-choices for this problem,,, 1= low on freon or 2-low air flow across the indoor coils which can be caused by dirty filter--- dirty fan blades and last but not least , dirty or plugged inside coils. After the unit has been cleanned , then he's suppose to check the freon last..