Question about RCA T25061GY 25 in. Combo

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No sound Have replaced speakers, need to figure out where amplifier is, do not think it is the capicator. Any ideas?

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You can find the amplifier NEAR the cable connector from speaker. it is usually looks like a comb in standing position attatched to a aluminum heatsink. good luck!

Posted on Feb 06, 2007

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My bose cinemate 1 sr has a flashing red light and no sound. does not change to green light with sound.


This is a powered sub-woofer, with a complementary sound bar. The amplifier for the sub and the sound bar, are in the sub cabinet. Because there are multiple speakers in the sound bar and sub, there are multiple amplifiers to run them. If any, or all of the amplifiers are damaged, they generally have a condition known as DC Offset. There are sensor transistors on each of these amplifiers, which will "report" a damaged amplifier condition back to a microprocessor(computer inside the Bose system). When this damaged condition is identified, the amplifier will shut down the system, and that red indicator will flash. You will need a professional, audio specific technician, as this is not a DIY repair.

If any of you are interested in having your systems repaired, please contact me from my website, audioserviceclinic.com. Just FYI, this is not a Bose specific issue. The same problem can occur with any amplifier, any brand. Thank you.

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If you hear a very high pitch hissing sound coming out from one channel then probably your amp final is gone, in that case you will need to work at component level to fix it

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internal / external selector switch on back of tv near inputs or setting in menu under settings or sound labeled - internal amplifier/ external amplifier.

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I have a Syntax Olevia LT27HV TV that just lost sound. I see shop jimmy has parts. Any idea what board needs to be replaced?


It depends on where you lose the sound, no sound from speakers? no audio line out?
The amplifier circuits are on the main board. You should try hooking up a powered PC speakers to the audio line out to see if you get the sound, if you do, then the power amplifiers are bad (it is a single IC Class D dual amplifiers, IC U54 on the main board)

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OK, a few things here. First of all, what program are you using to listen to music? Some programs have an automatic volume leveling setting. If you're using Windows Media Player, it has one. Next, you should NEVER set any speaker/volume/amplifier knob to Maximum setting if you want to get any life out of your speakers. Speaker ratings are for consistent volume levels at a "clean" power level. When you turn any music source up past 80% you are pushing more distortion through the speakers that they cannot reproduce without self destructing. The human ear cannot hear this, and the volume gain is minimal. Next we'll talk about that your dealing with a combination of power levels compiling into an amplifier that may be taking in more than it can aptly amplify according to it's power multiplier scheme to increase the volume at the speaker level. If you've got everything maxed out, you're probably just pushing it all WAY too hard. All over exerted energy that is not being used productively will end up in generating heat and distortion. Those are your 2 biggest enemies when it comes to anything audio. Distortion tears voice coils and generates disruptive electrical currents, and heat destroys circuitry and components in amplifiers. The times where they jump up in volume, just look at that as borrowed time until they blow. If you want louder, get a better or more powerfully rated set, and still, NEVER turn it up past 80% if you want it to last.

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Try getting the suround sound modes off and using straight stereo ,with no delays,or echos,

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IT sounds like you lost your high voltage going to the picture tubes. This could be due either to part of the main power supply going out due to a defective capicator or semiconductor, or something more serious in the High voltage distribution network. With the age of the set, I would be most inclined to replace it with a new HDTV, and Toshiba still are pretty reliable sets. If you can afford it, a Sony KDS-55A20 puts out a beautiful picture for around $2300.

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Check the Inline Fuse -=Usually located Close to the battery in the engine copartment=- and also check the fuse in the AMP. Without knowing and seeing all of the details i would say to try to bypass the capicator, I know that i always unhooked my inline before jumping the car but i know it happens. Hopefully it will be just that a fuse or the capicator but if some sort of surge resulted from multiple failures get the amp bench tested at A car audio shop. Just some thoughts.

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