It is a 4 ohm nominal impedance woofer. If you put a new woofer in, it will last maybe half an hour and then fry/melt. The problem is the amp, not the woofer. Throw the amp out and use the box as a passive sub. Get a 100 hz sub crossover.
This subwoofer does the duty of it's intended purpose... However its nice to have a home stereo subwoofer amplifier, considering the lack of general availability. Like many of other audiophiles- once you hit the bass you need more... As i found this product to be sufficient in its purpose- i still wanted to frankenstein a meaner system using the built in crossover/ volume controls on a stand-alone subwoofer amplifer for home audio. Fortunately in my case i have about 10 extra subwoofers (competition grade car audio) lying about in several sizes, not to mention my hockey stick went through the cone so- replacement was inevitable. The sub does have a single 4 ohm voice coil so you need to match that resistance value or at least be higher (or you end up over-working the amp- making it unstable and turn potential sound to heat). So replace the speaker with any 10" single 4 Ohm, dual 2 ohm voice coil subwoofer.(wired in seires [+ to -]) , or in my case- use the amp and use it as a master amp, then run it to a reciever of some sort to gain some watts. The other way to use the amp itself solely for driving subs with amplification is find yourself any low watt subwoofer combination with a posibility of a total 4 ohm configuration in total, and mount them in an enclosure of your own choice... Maybe a nice TV stand with integrated subs or a coffee table.
ANd for the knuckle heads who say the sound is only hitting certain areas.... HOUSE SUBS ARE MEANT TO BE AIMED AT THE WALL TO PRODUCE A BOUNCE EFFECT TO ESSENTIALLY REVERBERATE OFF OF THE ROOM STRUCTURE CREATING A SPEAKER OUT OF THE WALL. BASS NOISE IS THE MOVEMENT OF AIR AND MAKING THE WALLS VIBERATE CREATES MICRO-FLUCTUATIONS THAT IN- TURN MOVE AIR ACROSS THE ROOM ( the reason subs are in enclosures in the first place....)
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is the difference between bi-wiring and bi-amping?
Bi-wiring is using the same power source (amplifier) but
connecting that power source to a woofer and a
midrange/tweeter on a
Bi-amping is using two separate power sources (amplifiers)
connecting one amplifier to a woofer and the other amplifier
midrange/tweeter on a speaker.
How do I bi-wire?
Your speaker must have two separate positive and negative
connections (one set for the woofer and one set for the
midrange/tweeter). Connect one wire between the positive
the amplifier/receiver the positive terminal on the speaker.
the other wire from the negative terminal on the
to the corresponding negative terminal on the speaker.
jumper straps connecting the two sets of speaker inputs.
process for the second set of terminals on the speaker,
them to the same positive and negative terminals on the
receiver/amplifier. Repeat the steps for each speaker you
Bi-Wire, connecting them to the appropriate terminals on
How do I bi-amp? Bi-amping is similar to bi-wiring, but involves
amplifiers: one for the woofer and one for the
Passive bi-amping involves a direct hookup between each
and the speaker terminals. True bi-amping involves hooking
preamp to an electronic crossover that replaces the passive
crossover network in the speaker. The active crossover then
to multiple power amplifiers.
Yes, probably, if you aren't capable of repair yourself. However, IMHO, a replacement will probably cost less in the long run. I have a KLH passive subwoofer myself. I wouldn't pay for any repair if it failed. Replacements are far too inexpensive.
Line outs Left and Right from mixer to power amp Left and Right inputs, Power amp outs to Subs(if they have passive crossovers built in check specs on subs). From Subs then to Main spkrs. Make sure power amp is set in stereo mode using this way.
Alternative: You will need at least a 2-way stereo crossover unit inline after mixer and before power amps if the subs don't have a built in passive crossover. Most of them do have passive crossovers in the subs these days. Then separate amps or one channel would drive the subs and the other the main speakers. True stereo would require at least a 2 way crossover and two stereo power amps if hooking them up this way.
There is another option as is common with many sub setups. Send the signal to the mains using L/R outputs from mixer and a separate Mono output to the subs only. Putting only bass/kick and low frequency outputs in this send would help too.
If you place an ohm meter across the capacitors, the ohms should slowly drop as the capacitor charges. You can check continuity of the coils with continuity function of the multi tester.
Madisound.com is a good source for quality components.
The 'Subwoofer' output on your receiver is used to connect to a powered subwoofer with a built in amplifier. Your KLH speakers use what is called a 'passive' subwoofer, it gets its power from the receiver and then passes the higher frequencies to the left and right front speakers after taking out the low frequencies for the subwoofer. A speaker system with a passive subwoofer is good for casual listening, but a powered subwoofer is required for really hearing low frequencies and rumble in movies. The KLH speakers you have were highly rated in their time for their price. The four satellite speakers and center channel speaker have very good sound compared to the little 'midget' surround sound speakers most people buy today.
Here's how you hook them up:
- The left and right front channels from your receiver terminals should go to the terminals on the subwoofer marked 'From Amplifier'
- Your left and right front speakers are then connected to the subwoofer terminals marked 'To Speakers', they do not connect directly to your receiver.
- Your center speaker is connected to your receiver terminals marked 'Center'
- Your rear speakers are connected to your receiver terminals marked 'Surround'
That should get you up and running. If the bass isn't good enough with the passive subwoofer, you can get a decent powered subwoofer like the Velodyne VX-10 for about $150 and 'kick it up a notch'. Good luck and enjoy....