Question about KLH ASW10-120 Subwoofer

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Fried electronics in KLH ASW10-120B subwoofer

I would like to junk the amp and install a passive crossover since the speaker works fine. I need to know if it is a dual voice coil speaker and what the impedance is. Any help is appreciated.

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  • d_price55 Mar 23, 2009

    Thanks. I found out that it is a 4 ohm.speaker

  • SharkyRiveth May 11, 2010

    Well, if it's a dual voice coil, there would be 4 wire connections. 2 pos and 2 neg. Not to be confused with a single post connection that has 4 male pins on it. There will be 2 of these posts. Each will have 2 wires going to the voice coil.



    I just looked at mine. I could not find the Ohm rating on it. So I will not suggest anything on that. Sorry.

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It is a 4 ohm nominal impedance woofer. If you put a new woofer in, it will last maybe half an hour and then fry/melt. The problem is the amp, not the woofer. Throw the amp out and use the box as a passive sub. Get a 100 hz sub crossover.

Posted on Sep 01, 2009

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It is a single voice coil, 4 ohm speaker, rated to 150 watts.
Depending on the amp you're using, I don't know that I'd push more than 100 watts through it.

Posted on Jun 15, 2009

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This subwoofer does the duty of it's intended purpose... However its nice to have a home stereo subwoofer amplifier, considering the lack of general availability. Like many of other audiophiles- once you hit the bass you need more... As i found this product to be sufficient in its purpose- i still wanted to frankenstein a meaner system using the built in crossover/ volume controls on a stand-alone subwoofer amplifer for home audio. Fortunately in my case i have about 10 extra subwoofers (competition grade car audio) lying about in several sizes, not to mention my hockey stick went through the cone so- replacement was inevitable. The sub does have a single 4 ohm voice coil so you need to match that resistance value or at least be higher (or you end up over-working the amp- making it unstable and turn potential sound to heat). So replace the speaker with any 10" single 4 Ohm, dual 2 ohm voice coil subwoofer.(wired in seires [+ to -]) , or in my case- use the amp and use it as a master amp, then run it to a reciever of some sort to gain some watts. The other way to use the amp itself solely for driving subs with amplification is find yourself any low watt subwoofer combination with a posibility of a total 4 ohm configuration in total, and mount them in an enclosure of your own choice... Maybe a nice TV stand with integrated subs or a coffee table.

ANd for the knuckle heads who say the sound is only hitting certain areas.... HOUSE SUBS ARE MEANT TO BE AIMED AT THE WALL TO PRODUCE A BOUNCE EFFECT TO ESSENTIALLY REVERBERATE OFF OF THE ROOM STRUCTURE CREATING A SPEAKER OUT OF THE WALL. BASS NOISE IS THE MOVEMENT OF AIR AND MAKING THE WALLS VIBERATE CREATES MICRO-FLUCTUATIONS THAT IN- TURN MOVE AIR ACROSS THE ROOM ( the reason subs are in enclosures in the first place....)

Posted on Feb 17, 2010

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Your speaker must have two separate positive and negative connections (one set for the woofer and one set for the midrange/tweeter). Connect one wire between the positive terminal on the amplifier/receiver the positive terminal on the speaker. Connect the other wire from the negative terminal on the amplifier/receiver to the corresponding negative terminal on the speaker. Remove the jumper straps connecting the two sets of speaker inputs. Repeat this process for the second set of terminals on the speaker, connecting them to the same positive and negative terminals on the receiver/amplifier. Repeat the steps for each speaker you wish to Bi-Wire, connecting them to the appropriate terminals on your receiver/amplifier.

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