I had a HVAC maintanence person do a routin service last night. He said that my downstairs furnace didn't have enough return air coming into it. I have a Trane unit for a house that is about 1,400 square feet (downstairs). The return is one 20 x 20 return (filter size). There is a seperate unit upstairs that is a little smaller but has 2 returns (one 20 inch and one 14 inch).
The person said that I need at least 1,000 CFM's but I am only getting 700 CFM's. He is suggesting that they put in another return to help ease the load of the downstairs unit. The cost of a new return grate and duct is about $1,000. He said that the current unit will not last long the way it is.
Do you think I need a few duct system installed?
Thansk very much for your advice!
Right now you are at bare minimun for what your unit requires. If you are not having any problems with the unit or have not had any I would not worry about it. You need to check and make sure that your duct size on the unit is not smaller than 14" in diameter. If it is 14" or bigger you are fine.
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Dec 23, 2011 - Uploaded by talyn875
I show my method of diagnosing a no heat symptom in a heat pump. ..... Wiring and troubleshooting Thermostat - heat cold aircondition AC ...
Since you have two thermostats that operate the heating unit and the fan, and the fact that neither will turn the blower on, I would suspect the furnace/ air handler. Turn the thermostat to heat and see if the heat and the fan comes on, if it does operate normally in heat, the fan relay or the high speed on the blower is most likely the culprit. (If the furnace is equipped with a circuit board, the fan relay is integral to the board, if it an older furnace it has a separate fan relay). If it does not operate normally in the heating mode, verify power to the furnace, see if the flame comes on, if it does: the fan motor, circuit board or the fan relay are most likely the cause. hope this helps!
You really haven't provided enough information to answer your question. Is your furnace gas, electric or some other type of fuel? However, anytime a circuit breaker **repeatedly** trips, it's a pretty good indication that some is obviously wrong and it's time to call in a professional. It's most likely to be a furnace problem, not an electrical problem, so call a heating & air-conditioning company, not an electrician. Possible money-saving tip: Try to locate an independent HVAC person, **NOT** one of the companies who spend thousands of dollars on advertising.
There should be a label inside the furnace somewhere that shows what the blink codes mean. There are usually a couple of things that can cause a furnace to not heat while the fan is on.
1. The hot surface igniter is broken and is not able to ignite the gas, this will prevent the gas from flowing as a safety measure. 2. No gas supply to the furnace. Perhaps your gas was shut off? If you gave a gas range or water heater, make sure they are working. If so, then gas supply isn't the problem. 3. Problem with the wiring to the thermostat. (I had this problem once and found that someone had brushed up against the thermostat in the hall and the front half had separated from the back half of the unit. This caused the connections to come loose. My fan was on but it would not turn on the outside compressor for the A/C.) 4. The condensation plastic drain tank is clogged and not draining. Check that the hose coming out of the furnace is draining. 5. A problem with the circuit board itself. (Which seems to have power and can operate the fan still.) Unfortunately there aren't many other tests outside of this that wouldn't require calling a certified HVAC person in.
You have a mess, You need a complete new duct system and new equipment.......
You have a 2 1/2 ton AC which needs 1000 cfm of air to do the job. You need a supply trunk line 8 by 24 inch with takeoffs of a Min of 6" round pipe to each register which will delvery 100 cfm per run 4" will only delivery about 30 cfm per run.... and then you also need a 10 by 24 return Duct to the furnace ....
So that is why the heat exchanger burned up and the that is why the Compressor is noisy because you was flooding back liquid to the compressor... All because of air flow....
If you replace the AC or Furnace without replacing the Ductwork you will burn them up also....
The tech that fixed the gas leak had to shut the main gas supply off so if he didn't bled the line to the furnace you may still have air in the line....... Go ahead and shut the furnace off and retry to start it again it takes a couple of trys to bled the air out through the pilot.... And if that doesn't work I would call the first tech and have him recheck it......that is assuming that you have an electronic ignition type furnace.
With that large of an opening I would inspect the blower and as much inside the unit as I could get to as there is no telling what might have gotten in there and is obstructing air flow. I would remove squirrel cage and blowere motor and clean thourghly,clean burners and exhaust as best you can.
In thirty years in hvac and plumbing you wouldn't believe some of the things i've found in furnaces and ductwork. Cleaning and serviceing the blower motor should help.
Best of luck to you and your wife and hope this helps you. Thanks
Check the condensate pump if it is full of water and does not come on that will shut the unit down. And might need a new pump. high efficiency furnaces condensate to squeeze the last amount of heat out of the unit. Seen this problem before. But not being there is a little chance that, that is the problem. let me know and we can go from there. okay ken