Question about Maytag MSD2456G Side by Side Refrigerator

8 Answers

Maytag RFGS2325GEK Side by Side

We have recently bought a side by side Maytag, after about 3 weeks the it started leaking water. I found that it was the ice that had been made melting. That was the first sign that the freezer was no longer freezing. It slowly went cold and the fridge compartment was soon to follow. We have since had it replaced by the company but now after 2 days I woke this morning to find the ice melted again.
The technician stated that a compressor or something had blown completly the first time and it was nothing we had done... but 2 fridges in a matter of weeks doing the same thing... its hard not to think it's you??
Any ideas on what could be causing this??

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  • kyriakosmum Dec 03, 2008

    There were no power failures or interuptions to the power. The fridge is plugged into the same power point that the old fridge used. Although the old fridge did not do 'ice' it was still a large old fridge.
    So, still confused.....

  • kyriakosmum Dec 03, 2008

    Why would a drain getting clogged cause the first fridge to blow up though? I saw the burnt out bit...

  • kyriakosmum Dec 03, 2008

    Sadly we can't ask for a different fridge as it seems this Maytag fridge was the only one that would 'fit' in out space that did ice.

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8 Answers

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Hi If the compressor doesn't run, it is likely that the defrost timer is malfunctioning. This part is located near the compressor. To test the defrost timer:

Step 1: 
Unplug the refrigerator.

Step 2: 
Disconnect the wires from the timer and timer motor. Remove the timer from its brackets by backing out two retaining screws.

Step 3: 
Test the defrost timer with a VOM set to the RX1 scale. Clip one probe of the VOM to each defrost timer -- not motor -- wire, and turn the timer control screw shaft until it clicks. If the defrost timer is functioning, the meter will read zero. If the needle jumps, the defrost timer is faulty. Replace it with a new one of the same type.

Step 4: 
Connect the new defrost timer the same way the old one was connected.

To check the defrost timer motor, clip one probe of the VOM to each motor wire, setting the scale to RX100. If the meter reads between about 500 and 3,000 ohms, the motor is functioning properly. If the meter reads higher than 3,000 ohms, the timer motor is faulty. Replace it with a new one of the same type. Connect the new motor the same way the old one was connected.

Posted on Dec 03, 2008

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  • ABHISHEK.C
    ABHISHEK.C Dec 03, 2008

    The condenser fan is located under the bottom of the refrigerator. During the defrosting cycle, water may run through a small hose into the drain pan and is naturally evaporated. On some refrigerators, the drain hose is rubber instead of metal. This type of hose can become cracked, causing leaks. Examine the hose. If it's damaged, replace it with a new one of the same type. If you spot water on the floor, the drain pan may be tipped on its brackets, or the pan may be cracked or rusted. To eliminate the leak, realign or replace the pan.



  • ABHISHEK.C
    ABHISHEK.C Dec 03, 2008

    Coolant leaks are identifiable by their acrid smell.


  • ABHISHEK.C
    ABHISHEK.C Dec 03, 2008

    you can refer these diagrams

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Sir,

You may need to run something down through your defrost tube to see if something else is clogging it, if that doesn't resolve it, you will need to replace your defrost drain tube parts.

Also do these things...You will have to remove the rear evaporator shroud. The drain system is accessed from the interior freezer compartment; you will see several Phillips screws holding the rear panel to the freezer rear wall. Remove the rear panel and clear the drain system by removing the ice build up and poor boiling water down the drain to melt and residual ice and to assist in removing any debris that may be blocked in the drain system. Once the drain is clear you will notice water flowing down the drain as you poor it in. Please keep in mind that the defrost drain pan located under your Refrigerator may overflow if there is an excess amount of water.

thanks
goodluck

Posted on Dec 03, 2008

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Check first to see if your coils need to be vacuumed. If this does not work you may have a bad defrost timer ( causes the freezer to stay in defrost longer than it needs to be and the food will not freeze) You can change this yourself if you are handy and can locate it on the fridge.

If you want parts and schematics for the fridge you can enter your model number here.

Thanks

Posted on Dec 03, 2008

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Hey,


First - Its a common issue with Maytag refridgerators......You can View many Comments regarding the same on consumeraffairs.com


Now , Lets move onto the reason.........


Consensation problem...Uhmm ...nice term :)

Ur refrigerator might be in a closed tight room, isnt it ? I would not comment on other refrigerators, However what i have observed the common reasons for this issue for most of the Maytag .


It might be a coincidence....isnt it ? 2 refrigerators.........Lets assume :)

Check the door seal to may sure it is sealing properly. You can wipe it off clean and caot it with some vasiline. Look also inside unit to see if you can see water dripping down from anywhere.


Uhmm Mre steps to eliminate :) buzz me...:)


Take Care.

Posted on Dec 03, 2008

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If you would ask me id say it was a factory defect. 2 NEW refrigerators in 2 Weeks. Normally if enough complaints are received a recall would be given for that product line. id suggest you have them replace it with a different model.

Posted on Dec 03, 2008

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  • 81 Answers

The power system been checked before the ref operate, its better to replace the power outlets.

and is the power system for your ref is in separate breaker. and size of the wire 5.5mm with separate circuit breaker in 30 Ampere.

how old is your power system. if that in 10 - 20 years then its really matter. the best thing to do first is your power be in standard, bigger wire and in higher ampere rating. and with good grounding system for your safety. at 5.5 power supply the grounding system would be 3.5mm.




Posted on Dec 03, 2008

  • Alver Clamonte
    Alver Clamonte Dec 03, 2008

    3.5 mm power supply wire would be also enough with grounding system 2.0 mm and in separate circuit breaker with 20 Ampere rating. but 5.5 mm with 30 Ampere rating is best for your ref to operate in good condition.


  • Alver Clamonte
    Alver Clamonte Dec 03, 2008

    if you already turn on your ref. try if the compressor is running

    and condenser fan motor is also running and have ample/bigger space for its ventilation's.

    if the ventilation of the condenser if not enough and it only circulate in small area. that would matter.

    because the compressor will not continue to run because relay will always tripped due to compressor overheat.


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  • 306 Answers

S ur water dispensor leaking??

Posted on Dec 03, 2008

  • AbdulRahiman S Dec 03, 2008

    Your freezer defrost drain has clogged up on.. 

    Just take the bottom freezer shelves out so you have plenty of room to work, then defrost the ice in the drain trough, and use a wire or pipe cleaner to run down the drain.

    c tis>>


    http://www.applianceaid.com/frig_leaking...



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  • 6,966 Answers

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

Initially, what would be recommended/explored would be:

  • test the power at the outlets used by the Maytag;
  • any other kitchen appliance using the same line or circuit breaker;
  • was there anything untoward prior to the fault, power interruptions/fluctuations;
  • if power outages is pretty common, you may need to purchase and install a power on delay device.
If the above initial posting has merit and should you need additional information, pls click on my "Ask Me". Alternately, postback here how things turned up and to explore your additional options or rate this as you see it fit.

Good luck and Thank you for using FixYa.

Posted on Dec 03, 2008

  • Louie  Role
    Louie Role Dec 03, 2008

    Hi again and appreciate the direct "Ask Me".

    To my knowledge, most compressors would go bad for very few reasons:


    • old age;

    • no oil;

    • immediate resumption of power after an outage or a momentary fluctuation;

    • failure of the cooling/ventilator fan (if one is present);

    • restricted, poor or no ventilation in the rear of the refrigerator.
    It is to this that most manufacturers warranty their compressors up to five (5) years.

    In
    none of the above is applicable, then it is likely that the units that
    you had were from the same batch that have a manufacturing issue.

    Perhaps the pages here, here and here may shed additional insights.

    Cheers.


  • Louie  Role
    Louie Role Dec 12, 2008

    Hi again,



    Any updates or developments so far?



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