Question about LG WD-14124RD Front Load Washer / Dryer

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Dryer still not heating

Just to update everyone, I've replaced the top limit switch and the dryer is still not heating. For some reason the heating coil is still not getting the energy it needs, although it is perfectly fine.

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Re: Dryer still not heating

It's always worth tracing the wiring from power supply through programmer and timer, up to and between the various components on the heater duct, and from there back to the power supply terminals. It's not often that something unplugs itself, but it costs nothing to check and could save a lot of frustration. Have you got access to a multimeter? If not, suggest you get yourself a cheap one (never bought one in the States, but I expect you can get one from Home Depot for $10-15). With everything switched off and unplugged, measure the resistance across the terminals of the element. Expect to see about 20 ohms, give or take quite a lot. If you're seeing hundreds or thousands of ohms, you need a new element. Make a similar measurement across the thermostat and thermal cutout. Each of these should read very nearly zero ohms. If either reads much more than an ohm or two, it needs replacing (or resetting!). It's also possible that you're looking at a controller/timer problem - but eliminate the other things first. Good luck. A.

Posted on Feb 04, 2007

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Re: Dryer still not heating - LG WD-14124RD Front Load Washer / Dryer Washing Machines

Is it the coil element open circuit

Posted on Feb 04, 2007

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Re: Dryer still not heating

Your heater need 220vac also check the rest of your t-stats.

Posted on Feb 04, 2007

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Dry keeps blowing thermal cut-off switch for dryer

From your description I am assuming it is the thermal cutoff by the heating element that is blowing.

I would recheck the heating element for any signs that it has sagged and touched the case re: a weld or char mark.
The reason for this is at the top of the list is that the hi-limit should have shut the heater off before the cutoff blew and you have already replaced the hi-limit.

Check that the lint filter is clean and not coated with fabric softener residue.
If this unit has the operating thermostat on the blower check that all the internal seals (drum, blower etc. are OK. If the unit has a bad seal it will **** in room air, the thermostat sees this and then runs much hotter than it should.

Feb 02, 2011 | Whirlpool LTE6234D Top Load Stacked...


Dryer Troubleshooting Electric Dryer won t Heat

If your electric dryer is spinning around but there is no heat to dry your clothing then this tip is for you.


There are typically three reasons why the electric dryer does not make heat.
  1. the electric heating element has gone bad
  2. the thermal cut-out switch has opened up (activated)
  3. the high-limit thermostat has failed
  4. 110v power only going to the dryer.

Before doing anything make sure that you check for 220v power at the back of the dryer. The motor and the control components can and do run on 110v power. The dryer can start and spin on 110v power but will have no heat symptoms. The electric heating element must have 220v power to make any heat.

None of the three parts are very expensive parts and all of them can be replaced for under a hundred bucks. When ordering parts for your dryer it is best just to order all of them to make sure that you do not have to pull the thing apart soon again just because you failed to replace an old part when you had it apart.

To get to where the heating parts are you will need to remove a panel of the dryer. To determine which panel, check to see where your lint screen is. If your screen is on the top of the dryer then you will access the heating components by removing the back panel.


If your dryer lint screen is in the door of the dryer then you have a bit more difficult time. The access can be obtained by removing the bottom panel in the front. This is held fast by either screws on the bottom or by retaining clips in the seams a couple of inches in from each side of the dryer. A putty knife is a good tool to release the clips with.

Make sure that you unplug the dryer before checking any of the heating components. For information as to where the different components are you can do a search for “appliance parts” and then enter you model number in one of the parts supply web sites. Most of them have “exploded” diagrams of the different machines so you can tell where the parts you are looking for are located. These sites also are where you would order the parts you need. Be sure to check a couple of different ones to be sure you are getting the lowest price. The prices can vary from site to site and no one is always the cheapest.

When checking to see which part is bad you will need an electric meter with a resistance scale. The heating element will give you a reading of 9-13 OHMS if the element is good. The thermal cut-out and the high-limit will each read 0 OHMS if they are good. If you get any readings other than that replace the component.


The heating element is located in the heater box. The high-limit will be mounted to the heater box closest to the element. The thermal cut-out is mounted a bit further away and is a safety just in case the high-limit fails.

As I stated before it is advisable to replace all these parts at once for the best results.

After replacing the parts reinstall all parts and then plug the dryer back in to check the operation. You should now be making heat to dry once again.

on Jan 11, 2010 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Dryer has no heat. turns but no heat.

It could be the heating element or the limit switches. You would need a voltmeter and tools to remove the top of the dryer to check these.

Oct 28, 2010 | Kenmore 98702 Stacked Washer/Dryer

1 Answer

I have a thin twin stacking whirlpool washer/dryer. The high limit switch is kicking off the element within 2 mins of running. So heating element heats up red hot, then clicks off after 2 mins. I have...

I think you are on the right track with a faulty high limit switch. When i serviced these units we always replaced the operating thermostat and the high limit switch together they came in a kit. The operating thermostat in theory should never let it get hot enough to trip the high limit switch, which is really just a safety backup for the operating thermostat. Get the kit and replace both, and also make sure your exhaust vent going outside has good flow at the outside vent,a restricted vent system will cause similar issues.. Good Luck

Oct 07, 2010 | Whirlpool LTE6234D Top Load Stacked...

1 Answer

Dryer runs but heating poorly

first make sure the vent is clean to the outside from the dryer,then it could be packed with lint inside the unit,after this is complete,then the hi-limit/cycling switch on the element case can cause early cycling and low heat output if the unit heats by electricity,ig gas it can be a cycling switch on the burner tube,radiant sensor on the burner tube,gas valve coils are weak on the gas valve

Aug 01, 2010 | GE WSM2700D Top Load Stacked Washer /...

2 Answers

Whirlpool model LER4634PQO dryer. Will not heat. Dryer also will not shut off. Timer is running but will not shut off at the end of cycle. Can manually shut off and opening the door also shuts dryer off.

96f3244.jpgEither the top limit or the element is open, that is why the timer motor is not advancing. The small wire on the bottom limit powers the timer motor. The fuse is not blown because the dryer runs. The fuse has smaller wires and is tied into the door switch wiring and when it blows it is as if you opened the door. If the top limit is dead it is because of a vent blockage. I have repair photos HERE

Feb 28, 2010 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Dyer was not heating so i replaced the heating element. still no heat.

If the dryer runs, but does not heat, the following link explains how to troubleshoot an electric dryer with a no heat problem:

First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.

All dryers are not constructed the same. However, the Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.

Replacement parts can be found at,,, or The average cost of these components varies, so shop and compare.

The heating circuitry is usually located under the "Bulkhead Parts" section.

If you have any questions, please post back with your complete model number (usually located on a nameplate around the door opening) so that I may be able to provide you with better assistance. I hope you find this helpful.

NOTE: If you've already replaced the heating element, check your input voltage and power cord, first. Then, check the TCO. If the TCO has failed, it generally fails for a reason. The number one cause of dryer heat related problems is caused by poor exhaust ventilation which results in the dryer overheating. Double-check your exhaust ducting prior to replacing any parts. Failure to do so may result in repeated failures of the heating circuit components.

Nov 30, 2009 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

The washer works no power tp driver

First check out your fuse or breaker box to make sure you have proper power to the outlet.
If the outlet provides 220 volts I would check the door switch and then the high limit found in the very upper rear of the cabinet above the heat element.
the high limit is a non resetable heat sensor if it blows the dryer will be dead until you replace it.
Bear in mind that this is no easy machine to work on, getting to the high limit is extreme but even checking the door switch will be difficult.
Good Luck

Oct 07, 2009 | Frigidaire FEX831CS Top Load Stacked...

1 Answer

I have an Maytag model # MAEDZ600TW2 Epic Z Electric dryer , the drum turns but no heat , circut breakers were checked , lint screen is clean , btw , date of purchase was 3/23/09

There are 2 common reasons your dryer will not heat.
1. Your limit switch is out on the dryer not allowing the heating element to switch on.
2. Your heating element is out.

before you try to fix this yourself it should be covered by warranty.

Apr 16, 2009 | Maytag Neptune FAV6800AW Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Kenmore Electric Dryer

If this is a Kenmore, have you checked the thermal cut-out or high-limit thermstat? Does the drum turn when you start the dryer?

If the drum turns, but does not heat, you will need to check the thermal cut-out (located on the heating element housing). The TCO should read a SHORT (0 ohms) or very low resistance. If it is OPEN, replace it along with the high-limit thermostat. In most cases the two components are sold as a set and are recommended to replaced as a set by the manufacturer.

Reason: The TCO is designed to protect the heating element and thermostat in the event of an overtemp condition. If the TCO is bad, there's a likely chance that the thermostat could be damaged.

If the TCO reads good, you may have a thermostat that is failing. The high limit thermostat operates normally in the CLOSED (shorted) position and will OPEN at or around 157 degrees F. It is located on the heating element housing adjacent to the TCO. If the thermostat has failed the dryer will tumble, but will not heat. Follow the same recommendation as for replacement of the TCO. Replace both components as a set.

Now...if the dryer drum does not spin, the likely cause is the thermal FUSE. It will be mounted on the blower housing near the blower fan. It is usually white (plastic) in color on Kenmore models. It should read a SHORT. If it fails the dryer will not spin or heat.

Post back with your comments or questions. I hope I'm leading you in the right direction.

Jan 15, 2008 | LG WD-14124RD Front Load Washer / Dryer

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