Question about LG WD-14124RD Front Load Washer / Dryer

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Dryer still not heating

Just to update everyone, I've replaced the top limit switch and the dryer is still not heating. For some reason the heating coil is still not getting the energy it needs, although it is perfectly fine.

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  • Jesse Paolello Feb 04, 2007

    Thanks for all the help, will try all the suggestions and post back.

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It's always worth tracing the wiring from power supply through programmer and timer, up to and between the various components on the heater duct, and from there back to the power supply terminals. It's not often that something unplugs itself, but it costs nothing to check and could save a lot of frustration. Have you got access to a multimeter? If not, suggest you get yourself a cheap one (never bought one in the States, but I expect you can get one from Home Depot for $10-15). With everything switched off and unplugged, measure the resistance across the terminals of the element. Expect to see about 20 ohms, give or take quite a lot. If you're seeing hundreds or thousands of ohms, you need a new element. Make a similar measurement across the thermostat and thermal cutout. Each of these should read very nearly zero ohms. If either reads much more than an ohm or two, it needs replacing (or resetting!). It's also possible that you're looking at a controller/timer problem - but eliminate the other things first. Good luck. A.

Posted on Feb 04, 2007

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Is it the coil element open circuit

Posted on Feb 04, 2007

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Your heater need 220vac also check the rest of your t-stats.

Posted on Feb 04, 2007

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2 Answers

Replace fuse dryer model GEQ8821LLO


Hello;
My name is Peter. I am a retired field service appliance technician.
You never explained what the problem was. Dryer not running? No heat? Dryer shutting down. It could be as simple as cleaning out your dryer hot air distribution manifold. A dryer will not run if you do not have good air flow due to lint blockage. A dryer will not run if you have a bad door switch. You can Ohm components out with a multi-meter, setting the meter to the lowest Ohms (Omega Symbol). You should get a reading of "0" if the component is good.


1.) Dryer Door Switch - This switch replaces your dryer door's switch.
  • You may need to remove your dryer's lint screen and lint screen housing before lifting its top panel to reach its existing switch.
  • Be sure your dryer is unplugged during installation.
This Dryer Door Switch part #3406107 Cost $20.00

25432459-jpgjqed1aonpcy4b0i04xdgb-5-0.jpg

Dryer Door Switch - Unplug the dryer before replacing the door switch.
This Dryer Door Switch part #279782 Cost: $22.00


Thermal Cut-Off- This component is located on your heating element housing,. you may be able to access it at your hot air distribution manifold in the back of your unit.
  • When replacing your dryer's fuse, replace its thermostat, too. The thermostat should have prevented the dryer's existing fuse from blowing. The high-limit thermostat is functional to 250 degrees (Fahrenheit) and the thermal cut-off fuse to 360 degrees (Fahrenheit).
  • Install the fuse in your dryer's heater element housing box. Be sure your dryer is unplugged during installation

  • Part #: 3977394 Cost: $33.00
    25432459-jpgjqed1aonpcy4b0i04xdgb-5-9.jpg Cost: $34.00
    The high-limit thermostat replaces your dryer's thermostat.
    • The thermostat is functional to 250 degrees (Fahrenheit).
    • Install the thermostat in your dryer's heater element housing box. Be sure your dryer is unplugged during installation.
    This High-Limit Thermostat part #3390291
    Hot Air Distribution Manifold:
    This is in the back of your dryer and easily unbolted. If you are plugged up with lint your unit will shut down. Remove this component and clean the lower discharge end.
    25432459-jpgjqed1aonpcy4b0i04xdgb-5-14.jpg So, tell me what the problem is, and I will tell you how to fix it.

    Peter,
    Glen Burnie, Maryland, USA

    Feb 15, 2015 | Whirlpool Dryers

    1 Answer

    Thermal limiter maytag bravos dryer


    a thermal limiter is a safety switch designed to keep a dryer from overheating, by either shutting off the heating element or the dryer itself if activated. They don't normally need replacing (unless you know your dryer overheated and activated it). If you have no heat in your dryer, chances are you have a bad heating element--the most common dryer problem

    Jan 01, 2013 | GE DSXH47EGWW Electric Dryer

    1 Answer

    I have a whirlpool model# Ler4634pq0 electric dryer. Heats ok, takes 3 cycles to dry clothes. Cleaned vent hose, cleaned internal duct system, cleaned lent screen, and holes inside drum. Any ideas?


    If you 've done all of that and it still doesn't dry properly, you may have a faulty limit switch. These limits switches are usually down by the burner assembly and not much bigger than a quarter with generally 2 wires going to them. Very easy to replace once you find it. Unplug the dryer before you work on it.

    Apr 12, 2011 | Whirlpool Dryers

    1 Answer

    I have model REX3514PQ0 that I purchased from Lowe's in 2005. It is a Heavy Duty, Extra Large Capacity, 3 Cycle dryer. The dryer will turn on and will blow but only cold air. A friend suggested I check...


    There are three switches :: high heat thermostat, low heat thermostat, and thermal limit switch.

    Could the the thermal limit switch is opened because the dryer overheated -- these cannot be reset -- need replacing.

    Could also be a faulty heating element. To test these components you'll need an ohmmeter (multi-meter) and will need to remove the back of the dryer.

    More info, let me know.

    Charlie

    Feb 20, 2011 | Roper Dryers

    1 Answer

    Where would the fuse be and how hard to get to, is it in the upper unit? From behind? or lower unit? Running but no heat.


    The problem is obviously in the heating circuit which is basically composed of the heating element, thermal cut-off, high-limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, and the motor centrifugal switch. The most common part that causes the dryer not to heat is the thermal cut-off and/or the high-limit thermostat. Verify this condition by bypassing the said components.

    Disconnect power then access the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat. Disconnect the wires of each component then connect them together and insulate it properly. Reconnect power then start the dryer. The problem is indeed in the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat if the dryer heats up. Replace both parts and it should solve the problem. It is an easy and cheap repair to make. Indicate the exact model number of the dryer should you need further assistance.

    jahn27_42.jpg
    Dryers with lint filter on the front.

    jahn27_43.jpg
    Dryers with lint filter on the top.

    Also bypass the cycling thermostat if the dryer still doesn't heat with the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat bypassed. Check the heating element visually for obvious broken or damaged coil. An ohmmeter will be of great help in checking the resistance/continuity of the heating element. Replace the heating element if broken or damaged, NEVER attempt to repair it.

    The problem is likely in the motor centrifugal switch if the dryer still doesn't heat with good heating element and the three components above bypassed. Indicate the exact model number of the dryer should you need further assistance.

    Feb 01, 2011 | Dryers

    1 Answer

    Dryers tumbles but there is no heat


    The problem is obviously in the heating circuit which is basically composed of the heating element, thermal cut-off, high-limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, and the motor centrifugal switch. The most common part that causes the dryer not to heat is the thermal cut-off and/or the high-limit thermostat. Verify this condition by bypassing the said components.

    Disconnect power then access the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat. Disconnect the wires of each component then connect them together and insulate it properly. Reconnect power then start the dryer. The problem is indeed in the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat if the dryer heats up. Replace both parts and it should solve the problem. It is an easy and cheap repair to make. Indicate the exact model number of the dryer should you need further assistance.

    jahn27_42.jpg
    Dryers with lint filter on the front.

    jahn27_43.jpg
    Dryers with lint filter on the top.

    Also bypass the cycling thermostat if the dryer still doesn't heat with the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat bypassed. Check the heating element visually for obvious broken or damaged coil. An ohmmeter will be of great help in checking the resistance/continuity of the heating element. Replace the heating element if broken or damaged, NEVER attempt to repair it.

    The problem is likely in the motor centrifugal switch if the dryer still doesn't heat with good heating element and the three components above bypassed. Indicate the exact model number of the dryer should you need further assistance.


    Dec 31, 2010 | Kenmore 600 6965 Electric Dryer

    2 Answers

    Dryer no heat blowing cool air I already clean the filter


    You have one of 3 problems. No gas, high limit switch problem or motor circuit is broken. You will need a professional LG technician to diagnose the problem.
    Good luck

    Sep 29, 2010 | LG DLG5988 Gas Dryer

    1 Answer

    The dryer just started blowing cold air overnight. do i need tp purhase a new on or can it be fixed?


    Generally there are only 2 reasons a dryer would start blowing cold while in use on a high heat cycle. These are:
    1. The heating element went out. This is the part of the dryer that has about 9 rows of coils in it that heat up while dryer is in use and dries your clothes. this could be very expensive to fix.

    2. The limit switch on the heating element went out and is not sending the signal to the heating element to turn on. This would be the cheapest place to start. It is the size of about a dime and or a penny and has 2 screws holding it on to the heating element and will also have 2 wires connected to it. some driers have 2 limit switches.

    I would start with the limit switches first than check into having the heating element replaced if the limit switches do not fix the problem you are having.

    Please let me know if there is anything else i can do to assist you with this problem. Also please do not forget to rate and comment about your advise that has been given to you today,

    Dec 27, 2009 | Dryers

    1 Answer

    I have an Maytag model # MAEDZ600TW2 Epic Z Electric dryer , the drum turns but no heat , circut breakers were checked , lint screen is clean , btw , date of purchase was 3/23/09


    There are 2 common reasons your dryer will not heat.
    1. Your limit switch is out on the dryer not allowing the heating element to switch on.
    2. Your heating element is out.

    before you try to fix this yourself it should be covered by warranty.

    Apr 16, 2009 | Maytag Neptune FAV6800AW Top Load Washer

    3 Answers

    Heating element


    The model number you provided suggests that the lint screen is on top of the dryer, right? If so, the heating element can be accessed from behind the dryer by removing the rear panel. Of course, you should know this already since you stated you've already replaced the thermostat and fuse. The heating element is located on the right-hand side as you are looking at the dryer from the rear. There are TWO components on the heater housing. One is the high limit thermostat, one is a thermal cut-out. Are these the components you mentioned replacing? BOTH should read a short (0 ohms) when measuring resistance with the dryer turned off. If you haven't replaced both of them, double check to see if they are both good. The high limit thermostat will be located closest to the ceramic heater connection. The thermal cut-out will be mounted to the heater box. Perform a resistance check of the heating element as well. Measure across the leads of the heating element at the ceramic terminal connection. It should read between 8 - 13 ohms if good. If your readings prove that the heater is bad, it can be removed by using a 5/16" hex drive. The heating element should slide out the bottom of the heater box housing. Sometimes removing the heater box, and then removing the heating element is easier.

    Your dryer is also equipped with an electronic cycle control board under the control panel that goes bad from time to time. This also may affect the dryer heating circuits. Inspect the small circuit board for any obvious signs of burned components.

    I hope this information is helpful to you. If I'm wrong about your dryer configuration, please post back with comments, so I can give you proper instructions.

    CAUTION: Make sure you UNPLUG the dryer prior to making any resistance checks. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off.

    PS I hope I'm not insulting your intelligence, here. As a rule, I tell everyone this information because some are not as savvy as others.

    Feb 23, 2008 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

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