Twin tank air compressor does not pressurize past 65 to 80 psi.
My framing air compressor will not shut off as it never reaches 125 psi.
It only will pressurize to some where between 65 and 80 psi.
When it is pressurizing from 0 to 65+ the amount of air blowing out of the air filter intake increases until it blows off the air filter cap.
When I turn the pressure regulator out valve down past 65 it has no effect. I have removed all hoses, pipes and anywhere air flows and cleaned them out so they are all clear but it still only gets to 65+ and keeps running. I am thinking it may be the one way check valve that may not be working properly but other then replacing it I do not know how to check to see if it is working properly.
What should I do?
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The pressure regulator on an air compressor is designed to let the pump motor run until the pressure in the tanks reaches their safe level. While you are using the air the pressure drops in the tanks until it reaches the level where the pressure switch turns the motor on again and refills the tanks to their rated level. The pressure where these two things happen is usually with in ten psi above or below the rated levels because few regulators are so precise and are affected by temperature that they turn and off exactly at the rated pressures. If a pressure regulator is damaged or broken it is possible for the tank to either reach unsafe high levels or not turn on when the pressure drops to where it should restart the motor. If you are in doubt, have the regulator checked or replaced as overpressured tanks are very dangerous.
If your compressor is oil-less type, most likely pressure is leaking past piston ring. To verify, remove cover to expose bottom of cylinder (unplug compressor and let out all air). With flashlight, examine the upper-most part of the cylinder (turn motor by hand till piston is at top of stroke). If top of cylinder is scratched, then pressure is leaking past. For many years now, stores are in a race to have more HP and PSI to attract customers. Customer is really the loser because components used to make the units can not handle the higher pressure. Normally small 115v compressors are set to cut out at 125psi and larger two stage units will cut out at 160psi. Small compressor set to 200psi makes for short lived compressor. Could be compared to driving your car at 100mph all day every day. Longest life is attained when unit is being used at about 60 to 75 % of capacity. To allow your compressor to reach cutout pressure and keep working for a while, lower cutout to 120psi (pressure switch may be adjustable). To restore to 200psi, replace cylinder/ ring. If your compressor is oil type, suspect leaking reed valves.
Might be a switch failure. Usually the switches will have an integrated pressure switch to shut the compressor off when the holding tank reaches its max psi. When the switch starts to malfunction, it will shut the compressor off early and eventually fail due to overheating of the internal components of the switch.
The problem that you describe is caused by air leaking past the tank check valve. Easy to test/ detect faulty valve. With pressure in tank, unplug unit from power supply (for safety) and remove airline from checkvalve at tank, (usually a brass valve). Listen or test for air leak. If leaking replace with a universal in-tank check valve available from www.grainger.com. Good luck, with your repair!
You stated that the compressor started up fine. I'll assume it reached it's max psi then cut out. Then upon reaching it's cut-in psi the motor ran slowly for a few seconds, then kicked off. I also assume you mean check valve when you refer to the non return valve. If this sounds about right then. The first thing I would do is bleed out all the air from both the tank and the pump supply line leading from the pump head to the tank's check valve. You can do this by simply loosening the fitting that attaches the line at the head or the check valve. Once done try running the compressor again. The purpose of this is to check the unloader valve. This valve bleeds off the pressure that remains in the compression cylinder and the supply line up to the check valve. When functioning normaly it will bleed off this pressure once the motor shuts off. If it is not working correctly then when your compressor starts back up (once it is already been filled) the piston will be working against a psi close to the max psi.
If the problem reoccurs only after the compressor has reached it's max psi, then the unloader valve is most likely the problem. If however it will not start up at all even after a complete bleed then it has to be something internal to the pump and\or motor.
Please try this and let me know (or repost) your findings. If it's the unloader valve I should be able to explain how to repair this valve. Good luck.
Usually you cannot adjust the cut out pressure of the tank/motor itself, this is why they have regulators, which regulates the pressure flowing down the air lines (regulators like these dont regulate actual tank pressure cutout). To regulate air flow using the regulator knob, you actually have to have air flowing through the hose while you make the regulator/pressure adjustments as regulators regulate pressure DOWNSTREAM from the actual regulator itself.. so air flowing through is a must. Attach an air blower or something similar and let air start flowing through the hose. Now turn your regulator knob in the "-" direction to decrease regulated pressure. It is best to bring pressure all the way down to "0" first, then open the regulator up (by turning to the "+" side) and pressure will rise until you get to the desired pressure needed for the air tool in use. The tank pressure will still be between 80-125 PSI as the motor regulates and keeps the pressure in the tank between these values automatically, but your line/hose air flow pressure will remain at the regulated pressure (say 40 PSI or whatever you set using the regulator knob).
If your pump is shutting off before it reaches it's max psi. then you need to adjust you switch. Under the black case there are two adjustment screws. One is the high\low adjustment, the other is high pressure cut off. The first will change when the pump turns on and off for your low psi setting and the high setting simultaneously. The second will allow you to raise or lower just the high setting. There should be a diagram under the black cap to show which is which. Adjust the high side only and just a 1\4 turn then run the compressor and see if that takes care of the high setting.
Your comperssor is oilless type and suffers from short cylinder / piston life. When the compressor no longer reaches cycle pressure the cylinder / piston should be replaced. These parts are available at www.chpower.com I believe that the part number is wl210300aj. Not expensive, enjoy.