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Amana side by side not cooling

It stopped cooling so I replaced the defrost timer with a new one, no luck. It has frost on the back wall of the freezer. It's not making ice either.

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  • Terry Pitman Dec 03, 2008

    I don't hear a fan running inside the freezer but if I turn the defrost timer adjustment I can hear the compressor humming.

  • Terry Pitman Dec 03, 2008

    I removed the fan motor behind the back panel in the freezer above the evaporator. It wasn't running, so it makes sense. I know all about automotive refrigerant systems but have never worked on refrigerators. I ckd for voltage on the 2 motor connectors & it had 120 volts @ the moment I hooked my pocket dvom up but then went to 60 volts but it may be averaging. Not sure if I had the meter set correctly. I had it set to read a/c but I'm used to dealing with d/c readings. I'm going to get a new fan motor. I'll let you know. Thanks for leading me in the right direction.

  • Terry Pitman Dec 06, 2008

    I replaced the evap fan motor& it still won't come on. I depressed the door switch & could hear the comp running. I replaced the motor without unplugging the frig. Does it have a reset or something. Also not sure where the adj needs to be on the defrost timer.

  • Terry Pitman Dec 07, 2008

    I got it working now by unplugging the frig & letting the evap thaw out first. But I still need advice on where the defrost timer adj needs to be set to.

  • Terry Pitman Dec 12, 2008

    Bad news, still not working correctly. The evap coil keeps freezing up. The next part I'm suspecting is the defrost thermostat that's clipped to the evap coil. I hate throwing parts @ it but that's the next logical step. I'm not a refrigerator tech, I repair & rebuild transmissions. But I'm becoming familiar with this thing. As far as I can tell, it doesn't seem to be equipped with the "adaptive defrost" feature. The model # is SRD26VL. The defrost timer is located inside a box mounted on the lower front of the frig just behind the toe grille. The adj shaft sticks out through the metal box. It will turn clockwise but not ccw. It has what seems to be a starting "heavy click" @ about the 2 o'clock position & small "fine clicks" all the rest of the way around. Not sure where this needs to be set.

  • Terry Pitman Dec 14, 2008

    I ckd the defrost element & it has about 29 ohms of resistance. I read on another forum that if the defrost thermostat is puffed up to replace it. I didn't really ck it when I had the back panel off before to replace the evap fan motor. I ckd it this time & it is puffed up. I tried what you said anyway & it doesn't have 120 volts getting to the element. Maybe the thermostat isn't completing the circuit when it's supposed, therefore allowing the evap to freeze up. I'm not sure if the defrost timer is advancing, but will it with a bad thermostat?

  • Terry Pitman Dec 30, 2008

    SOLVED! I replaced the defrost thermostat & that fixed it.

  • Terry Pitman Mar 26, 2009

    Replacing the defrost thermostat fixed it. Thanks for your help :o)

  • Ken Bledsoe May 11, 2010

    When you open the freezer door do you hear a fan blowing in there? The compressor has to be on and the door switch has to be depressed on some models. Let me know what happened. ken



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The freezer fan has to work in order to move the air inside the cabinet. Now take out the back panel, molding and look at the small fan unplug the frig and remove the fan. Save the fan blades they just press on so will take a little effort to remove the blades. Take the motor to parts house in your area and replace it. Let me know how things turn out. ken

Posted on Dec 03, 2008

  • 3 more comments 
  • Ken Bledsoe Dec 03, 2008

    thanks for letting me know. You got it whipped now be good as new. ken

  • Ken Bledsoe Dec 06, 2008

    I don't know how that can happen when you replaced the fan motor you didn't press the fan blades so far down that it interferes with anything right? The fan blades turn freely with your finger.

  • Ken Bledsoe Dec 07, 2008

    The defrost timer is located on most models in the center of the refrigerator in a square shaped plastic box in top it houses the t-stat and timer. Look for a slotted screw driver in a recessed area insert your screw driver and turn you will hear it click that is going into defrost then rotate a little further and clicks again now it is out of defrost. make note of the position where you leave the screw and monitor it to see if it moves at all if it stays in the same position and don't move it is bad. Your frig goes into defrost every 12 hours for maybe 20 minutes to keep the coils from freezing up. I am glad to hear you got it running. Just read the first post and see you got a new timer in it so by defrosting the frig you are more then likely got it.

  • Ken Bledsoe Dec 13, 2008

    man what a tuff one. There is a defrost heating element located on the bottom of the evaporator. When you take the back panel off in the freezer compartment you will see it on the bottom of the coils should have to wires coming off it. Take a ohm meter and check to see if the element is good. By taking the wires off the element. Now if it checks good rotate the defrost timer and see if you get 120 volts to the element. By checking the two wires you disconntected. Now if that is good turn your thermostat down to say something like 1 or 2 does it shut off? To figure out where the defrost timer needs to be positon wise I suspect the heavy click as exiting the defrost cycle and fine click as entering. That defrost t-stat on the coils might be it not real sure yet. Does the timer move at all?

  • Ken Bledsoe Dec 30, 2008

    thanks for letting me know. You are good



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*One new safety device added to refrigerators in the last few years has been a in-line fuse added to both sides of the defrost heater. If one of these fuses let's go, you must replace the whole defrost heater, as it comes as an assembly. If the defrost heater does not work, you should check for one of these fuses being open. Check it with a volt meter or ohm meter.
On a frost free refrigerator, the cooling coils should be in the freezer section. On a SxS style refrigerator the coils will be behind a cover on the back wall. On a freezer on top style the coils could be behind the back wall or under the freezer floor. Removing the cover and exposing the evaporator coils could be a valuable tool. Seeing what the cooling coils looks like may help split your not cooling problem. Totally covered coils with white snow is a frost free problem. and the rest are bare is an indication of a system problem. System problems may be a leak in the refrigeration tubing, an inefficient not 100% pumping compressor.

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1 Answer

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