Re: I have a Dayton 4LX55 tubular heater in my shop that...
Check your thermostat and see that it’s wired correctly, it should be as followed for this particular unit; R-W-G from the thermostat terminal, and R-W1-G on the units terminal strip. Also check and make sure you have gas to the unit and make sure the switch to the gas valve is in the “ON” position. If all of the above is correct and working, you could have a bad igniter, or a have a flame rollout, or high limit switch tripped.
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Hello, since the inducer motor is running this can be either a bad ignitor or a pressure switch problem. Jump the pressure switch to see is the furnace will run, if it does there is a problem such as clogged vnt pipe, tubing clogged from switch to inducer motor, or the switch itself is bad. If it does not run most likely a bad ignitor
its the fan control AFC not shutting off , it comes on at temp rise say 150f drops back to 130f with fan on , burner shuts off fan runs untill temp falls to 100f the fan shuts off in this case it keeps running
Does the main blower fan kick on? Also, if the heater is vented outside via a flue pipe, there may be a small (about 3 or 4 inches in diameter) vent fan that kicks on to ensure the exhaust fumes are evacuated through the flue pipe. If there's a problem with that fan, the burner won't light either.
This is an easily fixed problem. There are two thermistor switches on Dayton furnaces. One controls the fan motor run function and the heater valve on/off function. The other called a blocked vent switch (located in the top front of the heater) stops the gas valve from opening in the event the
vent is plugged. However, if the furnace was totally shut down for the summer and is now being fired up for winter, the block vent switch has to be reset. The switch has a reset button on it, push it and it should solve your problem. Also, check to make sure the fan run thermistor is clean and does not have debris around it as that acts a insulator for heat to keep the fan run function on.