HI MY FRIDGE COMPARTMENT SEEMS TO BE FREEZING SOME OF ITS CONTENTS, I HAVE IT SET AT 6 DEGREES AND IT ONLY SEEMS TO BE FREEZING IN CERTAIN AREAS OF THE FRIDGE COMPARTMENT.
I HAVE JUST REPLACED THE FAN MOTOR IN THE FREEZER COMPARTMENT.
REGARDS SCOTT B
Hi and welcome to FixYa,
Offhand, the only probable reasons would be:
In worst case scenario, the controller board could be faulty.
Good luck and Thank you for using FixYa. Happy Holidays.
Check whether the defrost switch is in the ON state.the failure in the cooling may be may also occur due to the leakage of the gas filled in the tubes behind.try to check it also .thank you
That isn't 6 degrees, just a setting of 6, take a thermometer and place it in there and see how cold it is, it should be around 34 degrees F or so and so adjust as needed.
Cold air sinks to the bottom so it naturally should be colder at the bottom which is why the milk is freezing. You just have the fridge turned to cold.
A fridge should only be set to 1 or 2 degrees Celsius or 34 degrees Fahrenheit. I am use to the US standards where the temperature is in numbers such as 1, 2, 3 without the exact degrees shown on the dial. Is your fridge in Celsius?
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You need a recharge
In this case the termostat is faulty plz test it and see if its the faulty and make the replacment its easy.
where is the termostat on these? thanks
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HI
The limit switch is found only on frost-free refrigerators and freezers. Its function is to keep the defrost heating element from exceeding certain set temperatures. If a refrigerator has lots of frost in the freezer compartment, the problem may be the limit switch. However, other components -- the evaporator fan, the defrost timer, and the defrost heater -- can cause the same problem. Check these for malfunctions, as detailed below. If these parts are in working condition, the problem is most likely in the limit switch. Don't try to fix the limit switch yourself; call a professional service person for replacement.
Servicing the Evaporator Fan
In some cases, a faulty thermostat may not be the cause of a warm refrigerator or freezer. A warm box may also be caused by a defective fan, a blocked fan, or broken or bent fan blades. If the blades are jammed, try to free them. If they're bent, straighten them with pliers. If this doesn't solve the problem, call a professional service person.
On some refrigerators, the door switch operates the evaporator fan. If the fan seems to be malfunctioning, the door switch could be faulty
HEY
HERE IS THE CORRECT SOLUTION YOU ASKED
The drain ports are located along the bottom of both the freezer and the refrigerator sections of the unit. These holes can become clogged with debris or ice, causing a drainage problem when the unit is defrosting. To clear the ports, use a short section of wire that will fit the holes. Do not use a toothpick, because the wood may break off in the port and become stuck. On some refrigerators, the drain ports are located near the defrost heater at the evaporator coils. A lot of disassembly is required to clean this type of unit. If the refrigerator or freezer is this type, you may be better off calling a professional service person to clear the ports.
On some freezer compartments, the drain is located under the freezer compartment and shaped like a shoehorn. This type of drain can usually be unscrewed so that the drain area can be cleaned.
HI
REFER THIS DIAGRAM
hi did you seen my last solution posted.actually it is a correct solution
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Make the temprature more from 6 to 4 or 5.
ooling is poor
For an overall understanding of how refrigerators should work, read about refrigerators in the How Things Work section of our website. A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas:
Evaporator coils
Condenser
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.
Evaporator coils
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.
The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.
Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:
If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem
Condenser
Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.
Scott you have air baffels inside the refrig where it get cold air and if food are close enough it will freeze your stuff / check to make sure they aren't setting next to any of them / larry
the freezer will get colder at bottom because there is air baffels at bottom to let air come thought ,,, check controls 1st to make sure they are set at center point (1-7) set at 4 then if you check the sides of refrig dept you will see things that looks like vents and that where the cold comes in and they should have a adjustement on those too and if so set to lower to cut down on air flow and it should take care of it but you wont know for 24 hours so the temp control has time to adjust temp / larry
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In the back there is vent holes coming in from the freezer they should be adjustable close them down some. If not lower it down some more. It don't matter as long as the top stays frozen and the bottom stays cool
God Bless Greg
You might need to put some freon
Reduce the setting lower, when you say 6 deg you must mean #6 on the control?
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what does this do
anything with a bit more explanation
inside the compartment at the top it seems to have a vent which has cold air coming through very cold,this only comes on when the door is closed.
milk at the bottom part of the fridge in the door has frozen not near vents
WHERE IS THE THERMOSTAT LOCATED
THIS SEEMS TO BE A VERY COMMON PROBLEM WITH THIS MAKE OF FRIDGE FREEZER SO I WOULD HOPE THAT A LOT OF PEOPLE HAVE COME ACROOS THIS.
NO GREG THE FRIDGE WORKS PERFECT APART FROM BEING TO COLD.
HAS ANYONE HAD TO SOLVE THIS PROBLEM BEFORE
this is the tempreture setting it has the little sign for degrees after any number it shows
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