Diff Betw Lists - LG WM3431HW with and w/o /01 suffix

There will be one bearing pressed on each axle as well as two carrier bearings attached to the inner diff assembly. There will be two pinion bearings in the diff as well

It would cost about $500 to $700 to replace the bearing. It is a big job because the drum has to be replaced because the bearing may have damaged the drum shaft so it's recommended to replace the drum assembly along with the bearing assembly. If you decide to do it yourself, you will need:
The rear tub assembly which includes the bearings The tub seal Drum assembly
Good luck.

Here you go: Plan B:
NOTE: Every production run I don't know from. Here are some notes:
Duet washer started getting louder and louder during the spin cycle. When I manually turned the basket I could feel that the bearings were shot. A quick search of the internet confirmed that this problem was no fluke. I found an illustrated parts breakdown of my washer online, and saw that Whirlpool only offers a replacement rear tub assembly, at a cost of $408. Needless to say, I was pissed off. I paid about $960 two years ago for this machine, and now it will require $6-700 in repairs. Unacceptable. So, having a mechanical background, I started to tear into the machine myself. I tore it all the way down to the rear tub half. I found what appeared to be the problem with my machine, hair. Hair worked its way to the bearing area, slowed unseated the seal, and then acted as a conduit for water to enter the bearing cavity. The seal itself actually looked fine. Yet the steel hub that the bearings are pressed into was badly corroded, as were the bearings, and even the drive shaft had corrosion on it. I pounded out the cheap factory bearings, cleaned up the bearing cavity and drive shaft, and replaced them with some higher quality Toyo's from my local bearings and drive store, P/N's 6206ZZC3 & 6205ZZC3. Unfortunately they didn't have a suitable replacement seal in stock. I didn't damage the factory one too badly upon removal, so I straightened it up with a couple of hammer taps, made sure it sealed nicely against the drive shaft, and reused it. The new bearings cost me $20. I made sure I sent a nasty gram to Whirlpool, they offered me a replacement rear tub for 50% off, I told them to stick it. Hopefully I get at least 3 more years out of it, I've already started looking for my next machine, I'm likely going to buy a Speed Queen. Anyways, if your tub bearings are shot and you have the will, they can be replaced yourself for a fraction of the cost of a factory rear tub half. My advice, take notes during dis assembly, keep all the hardware from the different components you remove separated from one another. Don't be afraid to use permanent marker to write reminders directly on the components as they'll be hidden inside the reassembled washer when done. I did the repairs by myself, having a helper would've made things much easier. As for tools, I was shocked at how few I actually needed. A nut driver or torx apex, a 1/2" socket and ratchet, some slip joint pliers, a wrench to remove the drive pulley, and a hammer and punch to remove/install the bearings.


If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Have you remove the tub nut from the shaft?

Duet washer started getting louder and louder during the spin cycle. When I manually turned the basket I could feel that the bearings were shot. A quick search of the internet confirmed that this problem was no fluke. I found an illustrated parts breakdown of my washer online, and saw that Whirlpool only offers a replacement rear tub assembly, at a cost of $408. Needless to say, I was pissed off. I paid about $960 two years ago for this machine, and now it will require $6-700 in repairs. Unacceptable. So, having a mechanical background, I started to tear into the machine myself. I tore it all the way down to the rear tub half. I found what appeared to be the problem with my machine, hair. Hair worked its way to the bearing area, slowed unseated the seal, and then acted as a conduit for water to enter the bearing cavity. The seal itself actually looked fine. Yet the steel hub that the bearings are pressed into was badly corroded, as were the bearings, and even the driveshaft had corrosion on it. I pounded out the cheap factory bearings, cleaned up the bearing cavity and driveshaft, and replaced them with some higher quality Toyo's from my local bearings and drive store, P/N's 6206ZZC3 & 6205ZZC3. Unfortunately they didnt have a suitable replacement seal in stock. I didnt damage the factory one too badly upon removal, so I straightened it up with a couple of hammer taps, made sure it sealed nicely against the driveshaft, and reused it. The new bearings cost me $20. I made sure I sent a nastygram to Whirlpool, they offered me a replacement rear tub for 50% off, I told them to stick it. Hopefully I get at least 3 more years out of it, I've already started looking for my next machine, I'm likely going to buy a SpeedQueen. Anyways, if your tub bearings are shot and you have the will, they can be replaced yourself for a fraction of the cost of a factory rear tub half. My advice, take notes during disassembly, keep all the hardware from the different components you remove separated from one another. Dont be afraid to use permanent marker to write reminders directly on the components as theyll be hidden inside the reassembled washer when done. I did the repairs by myself, having a helper wouldve made things much easier. As for tools, I was shocked at how few I actually needed. A nut driver or torx apex, a 1/2" socket and rachet, some slip joint pliers, a wrench to remove the drive pulley, and a hammer and punch to remove/install the bearings.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

My bearings went out too and I found this site http://www.neptunebearing.com/ Ordered the bearings and the Tony Tool. My son and I replaced the bearings in about 2 hours!

You can't since these bearings are pressed in at the factory and are not serviceable. You would need to replace the tub's rear shell assembly.

Don't order any spares until you've stripped it down. See below:

• Make some space, unplug, unplumb, drain, remove top and rear panel.
  
• Remove bolt holding rotor onto splined shaft.
• Push down on top of tub to make the rotor more accessible then pull it off the shaft. Be aware that hefty magnets in rotor tend to pull it back on. Beware - strong magnetic fields!
  
• Disconnect cables running to stator (that rather impressive ring of coils) and remove the six bolts which attach it to the tub.
• Do NOTremove the 23 bolts which go through the steel plate at back of tub into polypropylene tub itself. I did - nothing happens!
• Disconnect cables running to heater element and thermocouple (temp sensor) at bottom of tub. Remove second nut and ease out element.
  
• Remove sprung wire which holds the rubber bellows to the front of the machine (the "port hole"). Leave it attached to the tub but fold the rubber into the drum so it's out of the way.
• Disconnect rubber tube connecting the tub to the pump. I found it easier to remove it at the pump side
• Disconnect pipes connecting the soap dispenser drawer to the tub. This is easiest at the tub side.
• There is a long tube, about 1cm diameter running from an air chamber near the bottom of the tub to a pressure sensor (to monitor water level) mounted at the front top right. Disconnect from the pressure sensor.
• Remove the scew holding said pressure sensor - it will be in the way when you remove tub.
• Pull out the drawer and remove the two screws holding the soap dispenser. That will be in the way too! Leave hoses connected.
  
• Also unscrew the solenoid valves. That's the last thing in your way.
• Pop out the nylon gizmos which hold the suspension springs where they attach to the cabinet.
• Note that there are two dampers at the bottom of the machine. They separate into two parts - no need to detach anything.
  
• Unless you own a block and tackle it is very difficult to lift the tub vertically out of the cabinet. I layed the machine its right side (looking at the front). Get help, tilt gently and rest on something to protect cabinet paintwork. Remember to leave the door open and to keep the pressure sensor, soap tray, solenoid valves and miscellaneous plumbing cabling and fingers clear as you ease the drum out of the cabinet.
• Remove bolts, split tub and remove drum.
• I found the seal was obviously gone and the first bearing was wrecked.
• Both bearings and the seal are available but I couldn't get the failed ones out (perhaps if I had specialist tools) so I ordered a rear drum including bearings and seal (about £120).
• Reassembly is straightforward - just note the following:
• If you replace the rear drum, rescue and reuse (or order a new) seal (huge O ring) between the two halves of the tub. Also rescue and reuse thermocouple.
• When reinstalling tub ensure the dampers re-engage.
  
• Beware when reinstalling heating element that it doesn't foul the drum. Also ensure no stray screws etc were attracted by those magnets. Give the drum a spin by hand to test once everything is reassembled but before switching on.

Two days doing it blind without instructions! More like two hours if I had to do it again.

Pub!

Sorry, but you are not so lucky. LG should not even offer those parts, as it takes special hydraulic presses to install some of that. For anyone but the manufacturer them self you must replace the back half of the outer drum (I believe it is a 3045ER0008C in your case) which contains the installed seal and bearing, plus I'd recommend replacing the spider asm 4434ER0002A, as the shaft may be a bit worn where it contacted the seal and bearing, and you don't really want to go through all that work (at least 2 hours) only to have to do it again. A FixYa rating would be appreciated. Thanks.

Get a new washer. Perhaps another brand.

The fix for me was to get a new washer. Had same issue with loud spin cycle. Tried researching while wife was continuing use of washer. Then the LE message appeared.

Took back apart and found that water had leaked and caused a boat load of damage. Bearings shot, seal leaks, drum leaks, Stator damaged. Same issue as 'jammy64' stated.

Cost to repair wasn't worth it. Going to get an
Electrolux model.