Sometimes that is a fan switch to turn on the blower if it gets too hot when cooking on the stove top. But you say the schematic shows it should be closed. So jump it and try the unit. if it works OK then replace it.
SOURCE: Replacing the fuse of a MCO160UW
A microwave can be dead for many reasons.
It may be the fuse, which is usually located on the floor of the oven behind the control panel or between the door switches.
If
the fuse is good, it may be an open thermostat or thermal cutout (TCO)
/ thermal fuse on or near the magnetron or on top of the cavity / body
of the oven.
If it goes dead for a while during or after cooking
then comes back on, the magnetron is probably overheating and causing
the magnetron thermostat to open.
Then when it cools, it closes the circuit and allows power through again.
When
checking thermostats, if it has a hood fan thermostat, that should read
open, as opposed to the others, which should read closed.
If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.
If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.
If
it goes dead or blows the breaker (or GFI) when you plug it in or open or close
the door, then there's a problem with a door switch or door switch
mount.
If it's intermittent or random, it may be a bad
connection, usually on the control board or a loose fuse holder, or
even an intermittent fuse.
You should do a continuity test on
the fuse while it's in the holder (with the microwave unplugged, of
course) then turn the fuse by hand or take it out and put it back in,
then test it again.
If you remove the fuse, then press the meter
leads against the ends, it can allow internal contact to be made and
make a bad fuse appear to be good.
If you or someone you know
decide to look into it, we have critical safety information and
disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa.
There may also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the
control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is
very helpful when troubleshooting & testing.
We're happy to help you and we'd appreciate your
thoughtful rating of our answer.
SOURCE: magic chef touch pad doesnt work
I don't have Magic chef, however, I would try hitting cancel, unplugging the microwave and waiting a few minutes, then plugging it back in to reset it. Alternatively, you could go to your manual under troubleshoooting. I wish that I could help you more with this. Good luck to you. Please let me know if you figure this one out.
SOURCE: Magic Chef Model#MCMY10SCC-No Heat-Smoke coming out
To obtain warranty service on your Magic Chef or E-Wave product within the initial one year
warranty period please complete the form here.
We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
SOURCE: Microwave waveguide spatter shield burned through
THE PART IS CALLED A WAVEGUIDE COVER AVAILBALE FROM REPAIRCLINIC.COM
SOURCE: Microwave oven blowing 20 amp ceramic fuse
Chances are if the varistor fails, it fails drastically causing a short circuit across the supply. It will sit across the supply (it will look like a thick ceramic capacitor) and you can check for continuity after isolating that at one end. If it shows low resistance (it should show almost open circuit with a Digital meter), replace it.
It need not be the culprit. If you are familiar working with High voltage circuits ( they are lethal inside a microwave ovens as the current capability is high here), you can discharge the doubler capacitor and isolate the high voltage diode to check for shorts in the HT area.
Unplug your microwave and turn it around and remove the screws holding cover on and then remove the cover. Look for where the power cord goes into the back of the unit and follow the black wire from the cord to where it ends. It should stop an either a circuit board or a fuse holder. Make sure that you replace the fuse with the same amperage fuse as what you take out. You will find the amp rating stamped on one of the silver collars on each end of the fuse. Good luck!
Make sure that the program controller is working if not check
power - step down supply, the pads are responding- if not faulty pads- or the
door switches, if the switch contact are not good then it will not trigger the
processor to switch on the waveguides. If the lights or fan work without any
display or action of program being triggered to start then it can be a possible
fault on the main board or the processor. Sometimes insect secretion can short
the board and display panel and so the processor can work in such an erratic
manner. If so clean, solder and reset the board. Now identify the parts by
clicking this link: http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/microwave/a/5/141/identifying-microwave-parts.html
If there is no heating
please do not switch on unless you have confirmed the fault. It is possible
that the Magnetron is faulty, the temperature cut off is faulty or the main
capacitor is short. It is also quite possible that insect can get into the oven
and create soft spots. When you switch on these will create a short and make
the voltage jump and in the long run damage the magnetron. Check this link to
know how a microwave works:
http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/microwave/a/5/1443/how-a-microwave-oven-works.html
So Remove cover after disconnecting , check for dirt/moisture in
the cabin, if so wipe clean and dry, check the magnetron and area clean and use
an jet air to clean off. Check the wave guide covers, if food had deposited
then it must be checked or replaced. See link: http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/microwave/a/5/1146/how-to-replace-a-microwave-guide-cover.html
Now keeping clear of the microwave, switch on; use a cup of water
inside to test.
If you notice any sparks shut off as the magnetron or the main HT capacitor can
be faulty. replace with same type.
If there is heating without any issues, you can use the microwave safely
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