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it sounds like the evaporator fan blade is hitting some ice that has built up around the blades i have seen this happen a lot on g.e. SxS lately,if you can remove the ice maker and dispenser you can see the fan blade,if you dont want to do this then shut down the refrigerator and leave freezer door open and heat it carefully with a hairdrier to speed the process up to melt this ice then restart it and the noise should be gone
could be the ice maker or the evaporator fan motor.you can try lifting the arm up on the ice maker and see if it stops,this will shut off the ice maker.also when you open the freezer door to lift the arm on the ice maker the evap fan motor should start when you open the door,you should hear it blowing around,is this the noise you hear?these are the two things i can think of that could make a noise up top,if not it could be the compressor or the condenser fan motor but these are down the bottom back of machine but still could be the problem,if the ice maker and evap fan motor both in the freezer are ok pull out the machine and remove the bottom back panel and check to see if the noise is coming from there where the condenser fan motor and compressor are,you're going to have to do some detective work to find the noise,hope this helps you out.
First off make sure the water in door still works. If it does not work suspect the door / light switch.
Next make sure the freezer temp is below 16 Deg F. The ice maker has a thermostat that starts the ice harvest / fill cycle and if the freezer is warming up because of automatic defrosting problems (Ice build up on the evaporator coils) the ice maker will never cycle. If you note an ice build up in the back of the freezer compartment or poor air flow from the evaporator fan you have an automaticdefrosting problem. If the fan is not running at full speed the bearings or windings on the evaporator fan are failing and there is not enough air flow to get the freezer to @ or Below 16 F.
Check to make sure the evaporator fan in the freezer and the condenser fan in the rear bottom of the unit are running un-obstructed. (clean as necessary.... but if the front of the cabinet is hot to the touch then the condenser coils my be clogged with lint or... the condenser fan is not running full speed.
The ice maker may be cycling but it may not be filling with water. If it is cycling but your not getting any water.... at all the prime suspect is the solenoid on the inlet water valve. The water valve is not repairable.
Make sure that the rubber fill tube on the back of ice maker is not blocked with ice... squeeze the end of the tube. If it is frozen with ice... the inlet water valve is bypassing water off cycle and causing the tube to freeze up. The only remedy for this is to replace the inlet water valve.
When a refrigerator slows down ice production it is usually the result of poor air-flow through the evaporator coils. The poor air-flow is due to ice build up on the evaporator coils. The ice build up happens because the unit is not defrosting properly or the evaporator fan is not running at full speed.
To answer your question "Can an Ice-maker tube freeze?" Yes, they can and do freeze but when they do freeze that is caused by a defective inlet water valve that is leaking water by when it is supposed to be shut off. It can freeze if some one set the temp control to MAX cold. Additionally when they do freeze and the Ice-maker cycles the plastic hose on the back of the unit pops out of the ice maker tube and each cycle starts porting ice maker fill water on the floor.
This may sound odd.. but. Perform a manual defrost by removing the freezer contents and directing a fan into the freezer compartment for just over 2 hours. (Makes a water mess so do not leave it unattended) The return the unit to normal service and after 8 hours start watching the amount of ice produced. (Should be normal for 2 days!) If after 2 days the ice production slows again you have an automatic defrosting problem that is causing the ice build up on the evaporator coils.
If you need any more assistance please include your complete model number in any future responses.
Water leak and noise are due to wrong temp setting or malfunction of defrost cycking.Keep temp setting between 3 and 5 degree centigrade. Due to over frosting, the freezer fan fan hits over the ice and working to cool fridge compartment.And also check defrost timer, and heaterworking properly to defrost in time. And if your ice maker is making sound, due to:
You will hear a buzzing sound when the water valve opens to fill the water reservoir for each cycle.
Rattling noises may come from the flow of the refrigerant or water line. Items stored on top of the ice maker can also make noises.
The high-efficiency compressor may make a pulsating or high-pitched sound.
Water running over the evaporator plate may make a splashing sound.
Water running from the evaporator plate to the water reservoir may make a splashing sound.
As each cycle ends, you may hear a gurgling sound due to the refrigerant flowing in your ice maker.
You may hear air being forced over the condenser by the condenser fan.
During the harvest cycle, you may hear a "thud" when the ice sheet slides from the evaporator onto the cutter grid.
When you first start the ice maker, you may hear water running continuously. The ice maker is programmed to run a rinse cycle before it begins to make ice.
you need to have someone check the defrost circuit. if the unit does not defrost properly , ice will accumulate on the back panel where the evaporator is, blocking the evaporator fans completely, and the circulation fan will eventually stop working because the ice buildup contacts the blades all the fan motor, and eventually the refrigerator compartment will start to get warmer and warmer because there is no circulation of cool air.
First, I think it’s important to know that the Ref side has no cooling coils, it’s basically a box and the cold air in the freezer is blown over by a fan through a channel into the Ref side. This channel has a door which regulates how much cold air goes through. You probably have two control knobs in the Ref side, one controls the temp with numbers 1-9, 9 being the coldest. This temp control tells the compressor how long to run. The other control is for that little door and it may have letters A-E, E being the coldest. If you set it on E (coldest) then this will close that little door and keep most the cold air in the freezer.
Now, why is that cold air not getting over to the Ref side? 1. The little door is not open. check your control setting. You can't see the door but, you should be able to feel air coming through the channel on the Ref side.
2. The fan in the freezer is not working. You can hear this fan running when you open the freezer.
3. The coils on the freezer side are clogged with ice which won't let the fan circulate the air over to the Ref side. This is a failure of the defrost system which consist of the defrost timer, heater, and thermo disc.
Also, If you replaced the evaporator fan then you got a good look at the cooling coils. Look at these coils while it is running. There should be a light coat of frost on all the coils. If this frost line is only 3/4 or 1/2 or any amount less than full coverage of the coils then the system has a coolant leak.
Directly under these coils is the drain pan and drain hole in the middle. This area should be clear of any ice or debris.