I'm having trouble with the on/off button. It does not stay on ,& when it is on it turns off. Could this be a faulty button & are they easily replaced?
If it has dampness sensor strips inside the machine they may be coated with dryer sheet wax or some other mess. Clean them with windex and retry. As the clothes rub against these sensors the dampness causes the dryness board to keep the machine a going. if no dampness is detected the dryer shuts down. Supposely to save power.
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SOURCE: whirlpool dryer will not spin
Since your dryer is "new" it is under warranty. I will explain the possible reasons why it will not spin. Then you can decide whether to make the warranty call or not.
If your dryer doesn't tumble, check these:
Belt
Motor
Door switch
Belt
Dryers have a drive belt that turns the clothes drum. If the belt breaks, the drum stops rotating. Then you need to replace the belt, and often the idler pulley, because the pulley tends to wear out at the same time.
Click here for a belt installation diagram.
Motor
If the dryer motor only hums when you press the Start button, the motor may be burned out. Here's how to test the dryer motor:
If the motor is very stiff, or impossible to rotate manually, and the blower fan housing is clear, you need to replace the motor.
If the motor rotates freely, run the motor momentarily with the belt removed and the blower in place. If the motor runs fine with the belt removed, there may be a problem with the idler pulley or the clothes drum. Try to rotate the drum by hand. If it is very difficult to move, correct any problem with the rollers or pulley, and then reassemble the dryer and try it again.
If the motor hums but doesn't rotate on its own even with the belt removed--yet you can turn it freely by hand--you usually need to replace the motor or the motor start capacitor.
Door switch
Your dryer can't operate at all if the door switch is defective. It's inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.
SOURCE: westinghouse ld505e lights up for will not start
Try opening the door, spin the drum by hand, then qi\uickly close& press start. If this works, then the capacitor has failed. About $30, easy to replace.
SOURCE: Replace belt Westinghouse Dryer Model LD505E.Can't
Hi,
Here you go...
Westinghouse Dryer Belt Diagrams and Replacementheatman101
SOURCE: I have a Westinghouse LD505E
Trying to fix an appliance yourself could void your warrenty. I would probably call the repairman and just pay the price.
SOURCE: westinghouse ld505e clothes dryer runs
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks.
If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the
wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed
component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame.
Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch.
Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed.
If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause
heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the
thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape
or with an ohm meter to test the thermostat/thermistor. (Should have/show continuity)
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor.
(Thermal fuse.If it overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset. A vent clogged
with lint can cause it to overheat. You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, if no continuity, replace it)
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST.
This could cause a FIRE, as you have removed the safety of overheat from the machine.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's
plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace an element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
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