Question about GE PSS25NGM Side by Side Refrigerator

8 Answers

Freezing food in upper chill drawer and freezes water in tank

Was freezing everything in ff compartment. Replaced EPS FF Inlet(flapper was broken). Now the water tank freezes and freezes veg and fruit in top chill pan. Replaced the lower sensor in FF and did not help. I set the lower shutter to lest cold setting but did not help. For some reason I'm getting too much cold air migration down the back channel. My hearing is bad so I cannot hear if the flap opens and closes as the fan makes too much noise. I replaced the inlet with another new one and did not help. The upper part of FF is okay. PSS25NGMABB The whole FF side goes into freezing, and the temperature control does not do anything to increase the temperature to 37 or 39 even if you set it higher. Water storage freezes too.

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  • gefreeze Dec 02, 2008

    Forget what the other guy said. When I said I had the same problem I meant the always too cold and freezing in the FF compartment. You cannot shift food around. The whole compartment is the same temperature - 32 degrees - and I cannot make the controls change it. I figured out myself that it maybe the thermostate controlls or sensors. What about flaps that are stock open letting too much cold air? The freezer side is fine. So, what the experts say? If parts are to be changed, then I need part numbers and descriptions.

  • gefreeze Dec 03, 2008

    The last solution did not make sense and showed that he/she did not read my description of the problem. I am not being supplied with thought through solutions.

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8 Answers

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The problem is usually the damper door assembly.

What usually happens is that the damper door cracks and gets stuck in the wide open position. When the damper door mechanism breaks (usually in the open position), the temperature control can no longer regulate the amount of cold air blowing in from the freezer.

Look in there and see. Also, when you turn the thermostat on and off you should be able to hear the damper open and shut. If not, the damper is probably stuck. If this is what’s happened to yours, then you’ll need to replace the entire damper assembly.


Posted on Dec 03, 2008

  • Swilin Sampson
    Swilin Sampson Dec 03, 2008

    To verify that the damper door is broken, remove the light shield and
    rear light bulb from the top of the refrigerator. Enter the factory
    diagnostic mode by pushing all four temperature control buttons at the
    same time and start the damper motor test: set the freezer control to 1
    (FZ 1) and fresh food control to 0 (FF 0) . Press any other button,
    such as Custom Cool or Filter Reset to start the damper
    test cycle. Now, shine a flashlight through right hand side opening of
    the light assembly so you can see the movement of damper door.If it doesn't move, you can buy the damper door kit here.

    Oh, by the way: to exit test mode, do FZ 1 and FF 6.


    If damper door assembly is defunct and you need to replace it, pull
    the top two shelves out about two inches. Then pull the rear tower
    assembly slightly forward with both hand and move it left and the right
    to expose the two screws that secure the duct assembly. Also, remove
    both screws that secure the duct to the ceiling. The rest should be fairly straight-forward.


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Hi,

it ok for you to defros your ref. overnight? and the first thing to do is to set your ref thermostat at zero, or not turning the knob at all. and never change it. we really going to defrose it in a normal way not in auto defrose. 6-8 hours completely.

and pull out everything inside the ref. and this is also the time to clean it. if you ask me, why our setting of thrermostat is zero. and never change it. it can help during night time. by a minute ill add more suggestion please take your time.

Posted on Dec 03, 2008

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Your FF system pumps cold air into the fridge to prevent frost formation, the FF is controlled by a couple of sensors.

It is possible that installing the inlet you had disconnected one of the sensor contact, or a sensor had blown because of a short.

Check the diagram here.

check the sensor PS304103

If sensor is ok, check wirings to control panel, and that control panel had not been damaged: PS304185

Also check that the gaskets and parts of the FF system are in place.

Posted on Dec 02, 2008

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HI The limit switch is found only on frost-free refrigerators and freezers. Its function is to keep the defrost heating element from exceeding certain set temperatures. If a refrigerator has lots of frost in the freezer compartment, the problem may be the limit switch. However, other components -- the evaporator fan, the defrost timer, and the defrost heater -- can cause the same problem. Check these for malfunctions, as detailed below. If these parts are in working condition, the problem is most likely in the limit switch. Don't try to fix the limit switch yourself; call a professional service person for replacement.
freezing food in upper chill drawer and freezes wa - c0ef315.jpg

Posted on Dec 02, 2008

  • ABHISHEK.C
    ABHISHEK.C Dec 02, 2008

    OR
    IT IS Servicing the Defrost Heater
    This component is a heating element located on the evaporator coil. When the refrigerator or freezer switches to the defrost cycle, the defrost heater is turned on to melt the frost in the compartment. Failure of the defrost heater causes failure to defrost.

    Test the element with a VOM set to the RX1 scale. To gain access to the heating element, remove the compartment's wall panels. Clip one probe of the VOM to each element terminal. The meter should read between 5 and 20 ohms. If it doesn't, the heating element is faulty and should be replaced. Replace the heater with a new one of the same type and electrical rating. Connect the new heater the same way the old one was connected.

  • ABHISHEK.C
    ABHISHEK.C Dec 02, 2008

    The thermostat control is usually mounted inside the refrigerator. Its visible control knob is turned to regulate the refrigerator/freezer temperature. The workability of this control can be tested in various ways, depending on the problem. To test the thermostat control:

    Step 1:
     If the compressor runs all the time, turn the control knob to the OFF position. If the compressor still runs, unplug the unit, then pull off the control knob and remove the screws holding the thermostat in place. Pull out the thermostat and remove either the red or the blue wire from its terminal. Plug in the unit. If the compressor doesn't run, the thermostat is faulty. Replace it with a new thermostat.

    Step 2: 
    If the compressor runs after the wire is removed from its terminal, there is probably a short circuit somewhere in the unit's wiring. In this case, don't try to fix the problem yourself; call a professional service person.

    Step 3: 
    If the refrigerator or freezer runs but the box doesn't cool, unplug the unit and remove the thermostat with a screwdriver. Disconnect both wires from the thermostat. Tape the ends of the wires together with electrical tape, and plug in the appliance. If the refrigerator starts and runs normally, the thermostat is faulty. Replace it with a new one of the same type. Connect the new thermostat the same way the old one was connected.

    Step 4: 
    If the freezer compartment is normal but the refrigerator box doesn't cool, set the dials that control both compartments to mid-range. Remove these knobs (they're usually friction-fit). Then unscrew the temperature control housing; you'll see an air duct near the control. Replace the knob on the freezer thermostat and turn the control to the OFF position. Open the refrigerator door and look closely at the air duct. If this duct doesn't open wider in about ten minutes, the control is faulty. Replace the control with a new one of the same type. Connect the new control the same way the old one was connected.



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Dear Sir,

Try thoroughly defrosting it. If the self-defrost isn't working properly the ice could build up in the freezer side, moisture could freeze into the insulation, pass the frost through the wall and freeze the refrigerator side. It could also just be the control knob.

thanks
good luck

Posted on Dec 02, 2008

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Sounds like the compressor switch is stuck in the on position and never shuts off. Is the compressor always on and never shuts off?

I would ckeck the A?C switch and temperature control systems agian. If its electronically controled by a computer or a switch that cut power at a certain temp, then i would replace those or have them looked at. If you have somewhere to store your food besides for a day, try unpluging the thing and cleaning out all the water and ice, thaw out the box and then hook it all back up and see if it keeps doing it.

ther emay be ice buildup in the lines somewhere.

Consider how much money and time and wasted food first, it may be better to just buy another fridge.

Good luck.

Posted on Dec 02, 2008

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  • 217 Answers

Defrost the unit for 24 hours.and check out all the ventilations something must be blocking the air to realesed.

Posted on Dec 02, 2008

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Hi,

This is a common problem that often doesn't have a clear, permanent solution. The first thing to check is the overall internal refrigerator temperature (see the Appliance Accessories section for a refrigerator/freezer thermometer). The proper temperature should be between 35 and 42 degrees. Here are some things to try:

  • If your refrigerator temperature is closer to 35 degrees, try turning the temperature up slightly.


  • If you find that the temperature varies a lot from the top shelf to the bottom (where it is coldest), try putting produce and other sensitive products on a higher shelf.


  • If the temperature is too low and you can't make it warmer by adjusting the thermostat, you probably have a defective thermostat. If so, you need to replace it, because they cannot be repaired. Other possible problems are a leak in the sealed (refrigerant) system, cold air migration (in side-by-side models) or a defective air damper. These problems can be quite difficult to locate and correct, we recommend you contact a qualified appliance repair technician.

  • Posted on Dec 02, 2008

    1 Suggested Answer

    • 74 Answers

    SOURCE: freezing food in upper chill drawer and freezes water in tank

    Does you appliance have the custom cool controls ? If it does then there is another air damper in the custom cool unit at the bottom of the fridge compartment

    Posted on Aug 28, 2008

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    Hi,

    Freezing happens when damper door breaks leaving the unit with no control over the very cold air entering fresh food compartment from the freezer.
    The damper door (DIFFUSER) is located at the very top left of your refrigerator section in back. It has a motorized door that opens and close's and it may be stuck open. More than likely it is broken and needs to be replaced.

    Replace damper door , with new damper door kit WR17X11508

    http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=1265&N=1055112.

    To verify the damper door is broken , remove the light shield and rear light bulb from the top of the refrigerator. Enter the factory diagnostic mode by pushing all four temperature control buttons at the same time. Perform damper motor test (FZ 1 , FF 0). Press any other button i.e. Custom cool or filter reset to start damper test cycle. Shine flashlight through right hand side opening of light assembly to view movement of damper door. To exit test mode (FZ 1 , FF 6). lf damper door assembly needs to be replaced , pull top two shelves out 2 ". Pull rear tower assembly slightly forward with both hands, move to the left and the right to expose the two screws that secure the duct assembly , also remove both screws that secure the duct to the ceiling. Replace with new damper motor assembly WR17X11508

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    Models Affected: All 23 25 27 and 29 cubic foot electronic side-by-side refrigerator units with plastic Liners manufactured in 2001 or later. This includes all Profile- (Arctica and Eterna") models Consumers have called with reports of freezing in the Vegetable (middle) pan or the CustomCool M (bottom) pan , frozen water tank or frozen water filter.Freezing in the pans , a frozen water tank or a frozen water filter is caused by excessive airflow from the vents in the tower.


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    To verify the damper door is broken , remove the light shield and rear light bulb from the top of the refrigerator. Enter the factory diagnostic mode by pushing all four temperature control buttons at the same time. Perform damper motor test (FZ 1 , FF 0). Press any other button i.e. Custom cool or filter reset to start damper test cycle. Shine flashlight through right hand side opening of light assembly to view movement of damper door. To exit test mode (FZ 1 , FF 6). lf damper door assembly needs to be replaced , pull top two shelves out 2 ". Pull rear tower assembly slightly forward with both hands, move to the left and the right to expose the two screws that secure the duct assembly , also remove both screws that secure the duct to the ceiling. Replace with new damper motor assembly WR17X11508.

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