Question about Amana SXD524VW Side by Side Refrigerator
AFTER FIXING DEEPFREZER FAN AND REPLACING TERMOSTAT ALONG WITH MAIN CIRCUIT PANEL IT SEEMS MADE REFR. WORK. BUT WATER DISP. AND ICEMAKER ARE DEAD.
SOURCE: water leaking
Tarena, it's been my experience with Amana that tells me you have a failed water inlet valve.
Here's how it works; Water comes from the wall into the fridge to the valve I'm talking about. Now this valve works like this... When you put a cup in the dispenser area to get cold water a switch sends 120 volts to the valve and it opens up allowing water to flow through it. When you remove the cup, power is shut off at the valve... the valve is supposed to close all the way, if it didn't there would be water dripping from the dispenser area, right? (Like a leaky faucet) If the valve is bad, it won't open at all. (Like a blown out light bulb)
The ice maker is similar. When it "harvests" ice and it drops into the ice bin, the IM will send 120 volts to the valve (for 5 seconds or so) to re-fill the ice mold so it can make another batch. Now when the power is removed from the valve, it's supposed to shut off all the way. If it didn't, there would be water dripping into the ice maker fill tube (in the freezer behind the ice maker). drip, drip drip... one after the other.
Let's assume that the ice maker valve didn't close all the way. What would happen then? As these drops of water enter the freezer compartment and are heading down the ice maker fill tube toward the ice maker, they don't make it all the way 'cause they FREEZE in the tube! One drop at a time, week after week. ('course you never notice it, 'cause it's in the freezer) Now... the ice maker is still trying to make ice, so every 45 minutes or so it sends 120 volts to the valve to get more water. But the water fill tube has ice in it because of the water drops that have accumulated there. This goes on over time and eventually the water fill tube becomes completely BLOCKED with ice due to those water drops.
Now what happens? The ice maker is still trying to make ice, but the fill tube is blocked... it can't get water through it. But when the water valve opens up to allow water to the ice maker, where does it go? Since the fill tube is blocked, all that water pressure builds up in the water line (tube) that feeds the ice maker and eventually it blows out! (you can verify this... pull the refrigerator out from the wall, look at the water line going to the ice maker. There's a connector back there for the tube to fit into. This is what's blown out.) Now the tube is just dangling there and not hooked up to the ice maker any longer. Since the ice maker is still running, every time it asks for water it sprays out and onto the wall and floor back there through this dangling tube.
The repair? Replace the valve. It's easy. The part number is 67005154 and it lists for about $21.00. You can find one at any appliance parts retailer. (you'll see where the valve is located... it's where the water line hooks up behind the fridge.) UNPLUG YOUR FRIDGE WHILE YOU WORK ON IT!!!
Just replacing the valve is only half the job. You'll still need to remove the ice build up in the ice maker fill tube. Do this by pulling it straight out the back of the refrigerator and putting it under warm running water. Then re-install it and hook the water tube back up to it.
On some models, you can not remove the fill tube. If you can't get it out the back, you'll have to do it from the freezer compartment behind the ice maker (a little more work, but still do-able). It's easiest by removing the ice maker.... pull the ice bin out and set it aside. Then remove the 3 screws holding the ice maker. You don't have to disconnect the wires, just try to get it out of your way the best you can. Now take a hair dryer and thaw out the fill tube until the ice slides out of there. Then rebuild it.
There ya go! Job time? about an hour. Part cost? about $21.00. Knowing that you fixed it yourself? Priceless.
Posted on Oct 15, 2007
hi tanks for the question there are heaters at the spots you said were hot and those heaters are there to prevent moist air from hitting cold surface and create warer droplets from forming on those surfaces i would remove the back of the fridge and vacuum it out that should solve your problem thanks the appliance doc
Posted on Sep 18, 2008
normal to have frost accumlulation, on the evaporator coil, not normal to see it coming thoughthe back panel, which is indictitive of defrost prblem, you can remove the back panel inside freezer compartment and look forthe thermostat( 2 wires leading to a round thermostat clipped onto the top coil of evap, simple to replace simply cut out old and wire in new one heres the part number R0161087
Posted on Dec 02, 2008
Unless someone has made a water level adjustment there is,
Only one repair. Replace the ice maker.
If someone has made a water level adjustment you can try this.
Remove the ice maker plastic cover. Locate the water level screw adjust it to a minimum setting and try it there.
If that does not correct the problem, replace the ice maker.
Posted on May 26, 2009
Hi andy and wlecome to Fixya. There is usually a semi white plastic line that runs up the back of your refrigerator. Here are some steps you can do to verify that the water valve is actually working
You will need an old power cord or cheap extension cord with 2 female bayonet terminals on it. (Make one if you have to.)
1. Unplug the unit.
2. gain access to the water valve and disconnect the wire terminals 2 ea from the solenoid.
3. Connect the cord you made to the solenoid making sure that the 2 terminal connections will not come off or touch together.
4. Get a bucket and gently pull the plastic line from the bulkhead connector in the upper area of the back of your unit and place it in a bucket.
5. Plug the cord into the wall outlet and HOPE that water flows into the bucket.
If the water does NOT flow then the water valve is clogged and will need cleaned or replaced. Many of these water valves have a hose type inlet connector fitting from the water SOURCE. Before attempting to remove any water lines turn the water source OFF. That fitting can be removed and you can check for a clogged screen.
Just remember to remove your test cord and re-connect the chassis harness to the solenoid when your done. Also put the plastic line on the back of the unit back into the bulkhead connector.
If you have water flow thru the line then the bulkhead connector fitting to the icemaker is froze up and you can thaw that out with a hair dryer (quickly) or a fan (Slower) with the unit unplugged.
This should give you some direction on what to do. Best of luck!
Posted on Jan 25, 2010
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