Question about Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer
Dryer comes on, blows cold air....not heating up and the timer isn't working so the dryer will stay running........help!
The dryer timer, located in back of the control panel, controls several things: the drying time of the clothes in the drum, the flow of electricity to the heating element, and the flow of power to the timer motor and the drum motor in the dryer cabinet.
Timers are driven by synchronous motors. Although the contact part of the timer can be cleaned and adjusted on some dryers, this is a job for a professional repair person. Timer motor repairs should also be handled by a professional, but you can replace a faulty timer yourself. Here's how to test and replace a dryer timer:
Step 1: To access the timer, remove the front of the control panel. On some dryers, the timer can be removed without removing the panel. In either case, pull the timer knob off the shaft and slip off the pointer. The pointer is usually keyed to the shaft by two flat surfaces to keep the pointer from slipping when it's turned.
Step 2: Test the timer with a VOM set to the RX1 scale. Turn the timer to the NORMAL DRY setting and disconnect one of the timer power leads. Some timers may have several wires connected to them: The power leads are usually larger than the other wires, and this size difference can be spotted under close examination. Clip one probe of the meter to each timer terminal. If the meter reads zero, the timer is working. If the needle jumps to a high reading, the timer is faulty and should be replaced. Replace the timer with a new one of the same size and type.
Step 3: To replace the timer, have a helper hold the new timer close to the old one, especially if there are several wires to be changed. Disconnect the old wires at a time, connecting each corresponding new wire as you work, to make sure the connections are properly made. Or, draw a diagram detailing the proper connections. After all the wires are connected, check the connections again for accuracy.thank you
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Posted on Dec 02, 2008
SOURCE: DRYER RUNS BUT, NO HEAT
They normally have a thermal cut out on the rear, behind a small cover or rubber area. Reset this by pushing it in. You have probably let it get too hot at some point by not keeping the filter cleaned often enough, or the outlet hose getting blocked. If there is not a reset, or it doesn't resolve the problem, it may be a fault with the hetaer element. These are not normally difficult to replace, just normally difficult to get to!
Posted on Jan 22, 2008
Your problem is associated with the heater element and or thermostats, you need to access these in order to determine the prob.
You have to lift the top cover and remove the front panel to do this.
Depending on your model of dryer, there are at least 2 ways to get into the dryer
It would take too long to fully explain the different ways to get into the dryer,so try this site which should give you all the info you need.
then click on free repair help then click on dryers, and then on my dryer will not heat up.
I would be grateful if you could let me know if you find the info you wanted from this site.
plz rate my solution.
Posted on Jan 03, 2009
Timer woun't run if there is n heat.
1. Check to see you are getting 230 volts to the machine. The motor uses only 115 so is not a good indication.
2. Remove back cover. You will need an ohm meter to test the components.
A. In the center bottom is a skinny white bakelite device held on with one screw. Remove one wire and check. It should check zero ohms. If not replace.
B. On the bottom right is a canister with the heating element terminals sticking out. They should test at 30 or less ohms. If not replace the heating element.
C. There are about 3 other limit thermostats in the area you're working. They should all check at zero ohms. Replace as needed.
Below is a tutorial on changing a heating element.
Posted on Mar 02, 2010
SOURCE: my dryer has no heat
If the model number you posted this question under is correct, your heating circuits are comprised of the following components:
1. Heating Element
2. Thermal Cut-Out
3. Hi-Limit Thermostat
4. Internal Bias Thermostat
5. Thermal Fuse
You can access your heating circuits by UNPLUGGING the dryer and removing the rear panel.
As viewed from the rear of the dryer, your Heating Element will be located on the RIGHT hand side inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out will be located on the outside of the heater box at the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.
The Internal Bias Thermostat and Thermal Fuse are two small components mounted on the Blower Fan housing on the lower LEFT hand side.
You can refer to the following parts illustration for assistance:
The components are listed as follows:
Heating Element (Item 17)
Thermal Cut-Out (Item 6)
Hi-Limit Thermostat (Item 15)
Internal-Bias Thermostat (Item 20)
Thermal Fuse (Item 19)
If you need assistance on how to troubleshoot a dryer, you can refer to this link:
The MOST common causes of heat related problems: 1. Blown Thermal Cut-Out. 2. Missing 1/2 your input voltage at the wall receptacle (the dryer will still run with half the voltage missing, but won't heat - double check your source voltage at the receptacle and/or your circuit breakers. 3. Bad power cord, causing 1/2 the input voltage to be missing. 4. Blown heating element. Read through all the information provided and let me know if you have any questions, or need further assistance. I hope you find this information helpful. NOTE: Take all resistance readings with the dryer UNPLUGGED and the component under test isolated (meaning disconnect any wire leads to ensure the accuracy of your readings).
Posted on Apr 02, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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