Replacing the door catch

Maybe your "hooks" are stationary and you need to disassemble the door panels.

Maybe the "hooks" don't move - maybe instead the latches which they engage are the parts that move? I've seen that before.

The extra space above the top of each hook may be there so it (or the choke cover) can lift up and out once the door is apart.

Unfortunately, the FixYa site reduces the size of the photos we upload.

Perhaps you can post them to Web space somewhere and give me the URL?

Or perhaps the owner of this site will allow me to invite you to send the photos directly to my e-mail at prototech@usa.net?

If I see the photos in larger form, maybe I can tell more.

As the pictures progress, they get more helpful. Thanks for posting them.

Picture number 7 just about convinces me that the drawing I posted on disassembly is applicable.

To do this job, I've used a couple of putty knives (or similar objects).

Once I had unlocked each tab, I would insert a small piece of folded cardboard (such as from a match book) to block the tab open.

Then I would progress around the choke cover unlocking tabs and inserting pieces of match book.

Of course, if you happen to have a large number of putty knives in your possession... *grin*

On the US models I've worked on, the choke cover was brittle, and if it breaks, it will not effectively block microwaves.

So go slowly!

More details:

I preferred not removing the door itself since the alignment is so critical.

I would remove the turntable (if equipped) and put the oven on its side on a cushioned table.

You want the side with the door hinge to be against the table.

Then carefully open the door until it is resting on and essentially in parallel with the table.

That way the choke cover is flat and facing up.

Makes it easier.