When i was hooking it up i didnt realize the key was on acc and the screw driver touched the amp case while i was tightining the speaker terminal (pos +) and sparked, now amp doesnt come on? what went wrong and where to look?it doesnt appear to be burnt anywhere. thanks
Amp power turn on ic is fryed.. take it in to a shop.don't believe your friend that say's i can fix it for you.this is not something you can fix with some $5 sodering iron.price range will be between $35-$80 depending on shop.
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if you already have a after market radio hook the remote to either the remote/power antenna wire or the acc/key switch wire hook up rca,s run them down same side of car hook amp power wire down other side of care it stops engine noise make sure you do a good ground iy needs to touch bare metal for best performance hope this helps
IF the amp is working properly and just not lighting up...then it's just a matter of replacing the blown L.E.D.s that are needed to light the logo on the amp. You will need to remove the top cover to take out and replace the blown L.E.D.s
some stereos will shut off if the voltage drops below 12 volts. measure your voltage at the battery with the car at idle and stereo turned up and all accesories and lights on. you should have 14.4 volts with the car running. the batteries voltage is 12.6 volts so you have to have more than this to be able to maintain steady voltage to your components. if the voltage drops too low when the bass hits it can shut off your radio. a capacitor can help this and the safe number is 1 farad for every 1000 watts. if you plan on adding any other amps autotek and phonix gold both make a digital capacitor that is compact and go anywhere from .5 farad to 10. the bigger the cap the better. if your voltage readings are ok then check that your speaker output wires are not touching.
When you have that hook drive gear back out turn the wheel until the needlebar is in its highest position. The bar with the teeth that the gear fits onto should be all the way to the right. Now slide the hook driver gear back on. You can lay the hook back in and slowly turn the wheel. Watch that the point of the hook on its upwards stroke is coming slightly above the eye of the needle. When it does this you will be in the correct position to put the screw back on.
Hope this helps. It may take a couple of tries but you will figure it out.
for that amplifier, it is recommended that you are driving a 4 ohm load. It can drive a 2 ohm load, but will produce more heat and shorten the life of the amplifier. Is the subwoofer a single or dual voice coil? You'll want to make sure that you're not running below a 2 ohm load or you'll always go into protection. Also, try disconnecting the speaker wire completely from the amp so nothing but power is connected. If the amplifier is still in protection mode when no speakers are hooked up, then the amp is bad and will need repair or replacement.
i am a master audio amp repairman i am working on an mean machine mx 1500.1 the RCA inputs wer just worn out on mine,
but your problem is much worse your power supply is gone, all mean
machine`s are CLASS X mind you NOT CLASS D basicly all that means is
that the audio feads directly into one big power supply unit instead of
having both an input and output stage.I recomend you find a web site or
audio shop with a phone number
for the autotek corp. and have it sent in..DO NOT WORK YOURSELF