When i was hooking it up i didnt realize the key was on acc and the screw driver touched the amp case while i was tightining the speaker terminal (pos +) and sparked, now amp doesnt come on? what went wrong and where to look?it doesnt appear to be burnt anywhere. thanks
Amp power turn on ic is fryed.. take it in to a shop.don't believe your friend that say's i can fix it for you.this is not something you can fix with some $5 sodering iron.price range will be between $35-$80 depending on shop.
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You have done some serious damage with out a doubt. Could have damaged any computer hooked up to ignition system along with alternator, regulator, ad infinitum. Best bet is just go out and get a nice cold beer and refer this to a real pro. Going to cost you so get a case (beer) to be on the safe side.
If the battery is good you will need to follow flow. Test light is the easiest to use. First hook light to ground and touch pos terminal,lights good next touch pos battery cable end, lights good. Next follow pos cable to starter pos terminal,lights good. Next hook test light to bat pos teminal,touch neg terminal,lights good. Then touch engine block, lights good ground. Next move test light clamp back to ground/neg side and touch alt pos terminal,lights good.if all that tests good, if all good move inside and check for power at ign switch pos term if at any time you dont find power you have wiring issue that needs to be addressed. Let me know what you find. Russ
You might try taking a C or D sized battery and two short pieces of wire. Hook each wire to the speaker. Then touch one to the top of the battery and the other to the bottom and see if you get the same response. This test works good if you have a speaker that isn't really marked pos and neg to find out which is which. If the speaker cone moves outward, it's in correct phase. If it moves backward, it's connected out of phase. I've never tried a 10 inch speaker with this trick so, if nothing is happening, you might try a 9 volt. It might take more juice to move that larger driver.
if you already have a after market radio hook the remote to either the remote/power antenna wire or the acc/key switch wire hook up rca,s run them down same side of car hook amp power wire down other side of care it stops engine noise make sure you do a good ground iy needs to touch bare metal for best performance hope this helps
There should be a group of screw terminals. They should say pos or (+), remote, and ground, GND, or (-). This is the power terminal. The power from the battery goes to the (+), the remote turn one (thin wire) goes to the one labeled remote (usually inbetween the ground and power wires), and the ground to the (-). RCA jacks should be labeled input and output. Plug the appropriate colors in the input ones. The speaker terminals are labeled left and right + and -. If it is a 4 channel amp, it will also have front and rear. Depending how you wired your speakers is how they will go to the amp. Follow the speaker wires to the appropriate prongs positive or negative. Hope this helps.
IF the amp is working properly and just not lighting up...then it's just a matter of replacing the blown L.E.D.s that are needed to light the logo on the amp. You will need to remove the top cover to take out and replace the blown L.E.D.s
some stereos will shut off if the voltage drops below 12 volts. measure your voltage at the battery with the car at idle and stereo turned up and all accesories and lights on. you should have 14.4 volts with the car running. the batteries voltage is 12.6 volts so you have to have more than this to be able to maintain steady voltage to your components. if the voltage drops too low when the bass hits it can shut off your radio. a capacitor can help this and the safe number is 1 farad for every 1000 watts. if you plan on adding any other amps autotek and phonix gold both make a digital capacitor that is compact and go anywhere from .5 farad to 10. the bigger the cap the better. if your voltage readings are ok then check that your speaker output wires are not touching.