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If this is a GE top load washer, I have see it a few time's. You can go to your local hardware store and get 2 new 4 inch bolts and nut set. and reattach the counter weight. The old bolts were just screwed to the frame. With today's appliance's they use 1/32 to 1.16 sheet metal... it don't take much to strip that out.
Next time post brand and model number...make's it easier.
unscrew the bolt until the toggle falls off into the wall cavity. Then just pull out the anchor and spackle over the hole. A molly bolt is a similar type of wall anchor. It's often confused with a toggle, but a molly's "bendable" legs are part of the anchor and will remain in place when the bolt is removed. Sometimes you can straighten those legs out by unscrewing the bolt partway, then pushing it back into the wall cavity. If you're lucky, you might be able to pull the anchor out through its own hole. If not, you'll have to use a punch and hammer to pound the head just below the drywall surface, then spackle over it. (http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/asktoh/question/0,,1585873,00.html)
If you used the correct drill size, the anchors should fit in the hole by softly taping them in with a hammer. Make sure the anchors are inserted before you attach anything to them. When the screw is used with them, they will expand and hold in place.
First lift the covers off where the bolts should be (they should lift towards the tank). Are the bolts in place? If not, go to your neighborhood hardware store and look for replacement hardware. (Most stores will have staff willing to help you find the right parts.) Is the bowl damaged so that the holes seem large compared to the holes in the seat anchor points? Are the seat anchor points damaged?
The bolts should have nuts (and possibly washers, but not all models use them) underneath the bowl. Screw down the bolt while holding the nut from turning (so you need an adjustable wrench or appropriately sized wrench). Again see the local hardware store for the hardware if you do not have the nuts. Keep the seat centered as you tighten the bolts. (Alternate tightening until it is stable - do not tighten one bolt all the way down before doing the other side. You risk overtightening and cracking the bowl.)
I hope this helps.
Cindy Wells (if the seat is damaged, you may want to replace it. If the bowl is damaged you must replace that.)
In order to support any true weight (like books) you will need to use wood blocking between the metal studs. Measure space between the studs, cut blocks to fit and mount at location where brackets will be.
For lighter weight applications, you can use an expansion anchor (but not the cheep little plastic ones that are often provided). A common name for this anchor would be a "molly anchor" and they are available at all hardware stores in a variety of capacities.
Depending on your style of climbing, you will want different kinds of Carabiners. There are basic types: your oval and D-shapes are your most basic Carabiners. Sometimes you'll want a locking Carabiner, especially for belay, or for anchors. Most Carabiners that you have will probably not be locking Carabiners. There are different types that are easier to clip. There's bent gates, straight gates, wire gates. It depends on your style and if you're weight conscious, or how durable you'd like them to be.
The best carabiner shape for any kind of static rigging is a symmetric shape - oval is the best. Most carabiners are asymmetric "D" - which is stronger but will cause the line to shift when loaded - the oval shape is better because nothing will shift to one side of the carabiner when loaded. You could use standard aluminum carabiners or even locking ovals (Petzl and Omega make very nice locking ovals), but I would also suggest using steel carabiners - they are cheaper and stronger and since weight isn't an issue they are better.