Question about Canon EF-S 17-85MM F/4-5.6 IS USM Lens

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Err 01 during slow shutter speed shooting

I've experienced this during slow shutter speed below 1 ,2 etc.. second - on AV,TV and Manual mode. but in Program mode it can shoot below 1 second.
The error appeared and said clean the lens contact and i did.. i cleaned the contacts with eraser but after doin it. still nothing happens.

pls help.

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  • jcdill
    jcdill May 11, 2010

    What model is your camera body?


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I having a similar problem and send back to the Canon service centre for repair. Subsequently, it was confirmed that the aperture diaphragm is faulty and need to be replaced.

Posted on May 13, 2009

  • willo1668 May 13, 2009

    Sorry, forgot to say that the problem is on the lens and not the camera body.


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Hi, willo1668, how much it cost?

Posted on Jul 24, 2009

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How to take certain types of pics for my college class in photography. I am trying to take action photos and in them, I am supposed to use shutter priority.

Hi, Tina,
Hope I can help - it's quite simple really. Shutter priority means that you set the shutter speed (as in 1/30 sec, 1/60 sec etc) and the camera sets the lens aperture (as in f4, f5.6, f8 etc). It is up to you to choose the ISO rating, but for action I would use either ISO 200 or ISO 400.
If you use a slow shutter speed (such as 1/30 second) you will need to use a sturdy tripod to support the weight of the camera and lens (you've not specified which lens you are using, so I'll assume a zoom with a maximum focal length of 200mm). You will also need to use a remote release to fire the shutter, in order not to impart camera shake.
By using a slow shutter speed, you will automatically impart blur to the image - check on the monirot, and if the image is too blurred, choose a faster shutter speed (i.e. 1/60 second) - don't forget, the camera will take care of the aperture.
The angle from which you take the photos will also affect the result - if you are 'head-on' to the action, then there will be little sign of movement, whereas if you shoot from the side, then movement will be across the frame and will show to a far greater effect. A compromise is to stand at about 45 degrees to the action, so you get movement but the subject is still identifiable.
For frozen motion, just select the camera's fastest shutter speed, which on your camera appears to be 1/4000 sec. You will need to increase the ISO rating as well for this to be usable, especially on a less-than-sunny day - ISO 800, or even ISO 1600 may be necessary. I am assuming you do not have access to infra-red remote triggering equippment, so you'll need your remote release again. As there is a perceptible time-lag between deciding to fire the shutter and actually doing so, anticipate where you want the subject to be in the photo, then fire the shutter before it reaches that point.
Some people like to use burst shooting mode to ensure that get a selection of images, from which they can choose one or more, but since this is a college assignment, I would suggest practising until you can pre-visualise what Cartier-Bresson termed 'the decisive moment'.
Panning fills some people with dread, as it is the least predictable way to capture motion, yet can provide the most spectacular images. The camera will need to be hand-held for this - as I am sure you know, received wisdom states that when hand-holding a camera, the slowest usable shutter speed is the reciprocal of the focal length (i.e. for a 200mm lens, a shutter speed of 1/250 sec is considered the minimum) - this is to prevent camera movement during the exposure. With panning, we actually want camera movement to be plain, so choose a shutter speed of 1/60 sec or 1/125 sec. Again, a high ISO rating will be helpful - say ISO 400 or ISO 800. This is to ensure a reasonably small aperture, thus increasing depth of field.
Panning usually works best when the subject is parallel with the photographer, or maybe a little before this point, and the technique is very simple. You merely look through the viewfinder at your subject, making sure it is approximately in the middle of the frame, and, continuing to swing the camera at the same rate as the subject is moving, release the shutter just before the point you have selected as likely to give the best result. With a DSLR, of course, everything goes black as the mirror swings up, but it is vital to keep panning smoothly, because now is when the image is being recorded.
When the mirror returns to its usual position, if the subject is still in the viewfinder, there is a very good chance you have taken a successsful shot. Well Done !!
You haven't specified the subject matter for this assignment, but unless you are on safari in Africa shooting Klipspringers, chances are they will be people or pets. People are easiest - on a running track, they travel at a reasonable speed, and you have the chance to make adjustments in between each lap. Cyclists, unless on a velodrome or short city-centre circuit, pass less frequently, and at a greater velocity. Racing cars - possibly a little optimistic for your first attempt. Dog or horse shows may provide suitable subjects as well.
Main thing is - practice ! That is the great advantage of digital - instant replay, to check for areas to be improved, and almost unlimited storage. One final bit of advice - although RAW gives better results, JPEG writes to the SD card far faster, so you won't miss the one perfect shot of the day waiting for the data to be written to your card. Good Luck !!

Sep 25, 2016 | Nikon D3200 24.2 MP CMOS Digital SLR with...

2 Answers

Blurry pictures of moving wildlife

check shutter speed, problem to slow, increase aperture if light level permits hand shake can also blur image.If in full auto mode change to manual settings mount camera onto tripod THIS WILL SOLVE HAND SHAKE PROBLEMS the most common cause of blurred images.

Nov 22, 2013 | Canon EF 75-300mm f/4-5.6 IS USM Lens

1 Answer

Problem conecting the Bower 650-1300.. to the camera.

What exposure are you setting? Try pointing your camera out the window during the day, with the ISO at 200, the aperture at f/8, and the shutter speed at 1/125. Don't worry about holding the camera steady, we're just trying to get the exposure. Does it still come out black? Try slower shutter speeds (1/60, 1/30, etc.). Any change?

Nov 20, 2013 | Bower 650-1300mm f/8-16 Manual Focus Lens...

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I bought this lense and need instant help. I am shooting pics at a high school football game and it gets dark early. What settings do I switch my camera to in order to get sufficient light and capture all...

Shooting sports and the evening can be a compromise between needed s fast shutter to stop action or a longer shutter to allow enough light for a good exposure. Fortunately, you've got a "fast" lens. My suggestions are:

Shoot in "A" mode (aperture priority) and change the aperture of the lens to the lowest number available to make the aperture open to maximum, and increase the ISO to 400 or 800. You may even get satisfactory results at ISO1600, but you should check the results on a computer screen before blindly going out shooting at the level.

By increasing the aperture, two things happen; exposure times are reduced to minimum so that motion is stopped (or blur minimized) and the the depth of field becomes very narrow or "shallow". Depth of field or "DOF" describes the distance in front and beyond the point of focus that will also be in focus. Large apertures (low "f" number s like 1.4 to 2.8 ) = narrow DOF and small apertures (high "f" numbers like 16 to 22 and beyond) = wide DOF. An example would be if you took a picture of someone's face from a2 feet away at f 1.4 and focused on the tip of the nose - the eyes would begin to get soft or out of focus - the ears would be even more noticeable - and that background would very blurred. The same picture at f 22 nearly everything would be in focus - except for maybe the background - depending how far behind it is from the subject's head. Check the example below:

Look at the backgrounds of the pictures above. The left is largely in focus at f 8 while the right is blurry at f 2.5. Had left been shot at f 22 or more, more of the background would be in focus.

Increasing the ISO to 400 or 800 increases the camera's sensitivity to light like film. The higher the ISO, the less time it takes to get a properly exposed picture. High ISO are helpful in low light situations or other times you need to have a faster shutter speed (for sports or don't have a tripod for pictures that need long exposures). Assume you want to take a picture of something that the camera tells you won't be exposed correctly unless you shoot at say for example f 2.8 and shutter is 1/30 second. If the camera ISO was set to 100, you could change it to 200. This doubles the sensitivity to light - meaning you need 1/2 the light; you can change the f number from f 2.8 to f 4, OR, leave it at 2.8 and increase the shutter speed to the next faster value 1/60 sec. If you change the ISO to 400, it is now 4x's sensitive than 100 (or 2x's than 200). At ISO 400, you could go two f stops smaller to f 5.6 or stay at 2.8 and increase shutter from 1/30 to 1/125. For ISO 800, you could go three f stops smaller to f 8 or stay at 2.8 and increase shutter from 1/30 to 1/250. You can mix and match, too. Go one up on the speed and two smaller on the aperture. The drawback to higher ISOs is that the pictures become grainier with each increase. Eventually, the pictures don't look good when you get into ISO numbers above 800 (or less on some DSLR cameras - and even less on point and shoot types). You have to experiment to find where your preferences are. See below for Low and High ISO comparison shots:

The left picture above has nice, smooth transitions between shades of colors - the right picture has a grainy appearance called "noise". Some is acceptable but others are not - it depends what YOU can live with. Sometimes it's better to have a grainy shot than nothing at all.

Lastly, you can shoot "S" for shutter mode, to control motion instead of "A" which controls volume of light instead. The same principles apply.

I hope this helps & good luck!

Sep 08, 2011 | Tamron SP AF 70200mm f28 Di LD IF Makro...

1 Answer

I did not get any instructions with my Opteka. Have tried to take photos with it. But they came out all blank. I used a tripod. Would like to know where I can down load instructions. Certainly not as good...

You did not provide enough information to determine what your problem is. For example, were the pictures all light or all dark. Knowing this lens, I will assume that they were all dark. So...

1) This is a very, very slow manual-focus lens. It will not auto focus. It must be manually focused very precisely because it has virtually no depth of field.
2) Depending on your camera, your internal light meter may not work. On my camera (Nikon D-90), it does. If it does not on yours and I suspect that may be your problem, you're going to have to shoot everything manually, i.e. setting the shutter speed and lens opening yourself. You can use your internal light meter to help you get started by taking your light reading before you install the lens...preferably using the aperture only setting where you set the aperture at f8 which I think is the speed of the Opteka and let the camera set the shutter speed. Make a note of the shutter speed then attach the Opteka to the camera and mount the lens on a tripod with the camera attached.
Then set your camera mode to manual and set the aperture to match the lens (f8, I think). Set the shutter speed at the speed you noted earlier. Shoot a picture using a remote shutter release or the self timer. This lens is so slow that unless you're in exceptionally bright conditions you will get fuzzy pictures due to camera movement at full zoom of 1200m and above if you're using the 2X doubler. I would start shooting at minimum zoom of 650 without the 2X doubler. Shoot a picture. and check the result.

You should have an image but it may be too light or too dark.

If its too light you'll need to increase the shutter speed or stop down the aperture to, say, f11...or both. Make the adjustment and shoot another picture. Remember that if you increase the aperture, you increase your depth of field, making focus less critical. If you increase the shutter speed you make camera or subject movement less critical.

If it's too dark, you can only increase the shutter speed because you can't open the lens any wider than f8. Make the adjustment and shoot the picture.

Keep doing this until the pictures are the way you want them.

This is a decent lens for the price and worth the little money they cost if you can't afford $10,000 plus for a high quality telephoto lens of this size. I would forget about the 2X doubler because as others have said, it further reduces the speed of an already very slow lens with such a high rate of magnification that a knat landing on the lens could cause the picture to blur from movement.

Jun 26, 2011 | Opteka 650-2600mm High Definition...

1 Answer

What are the best settings to use the Opteka 500MM Mirror Lens with a Pentax K-7. Also when you you add the 2.0X teleconverter with this lens?

These big lenses are very slow and cannot deliver much light to your camera. Obviously, you can't open the aperture any wider than f8 as specified by the lens itself. In the old days, most inexpensive cameras were fixed focus at f8 with a shutter speed of 1/100 sec. That's a good place to start with this lens without the doubler.

If the pictures are too dark, you can't open the lens any wider so your only option is to reduce the shutter speed.

That means that motion of the shooter or the subject will be more inclined to cause blurring so you need to be shooting from a tripod with a remote shutter release and/or a delayed shutter release setting.

If the test picture is too light, I would first reduce the lens opening to the next stop, f9 or f11, then shoot another test shot. You could also increase shutter speed, or both o reduce the light reaching the camera sensor. Keep shooting test shots until you get the exposure you want.

Once you add the doubler, you compound this situation because it will further reduce the lens speed by about 2 f-stops, meaning that you have to start your tests at f-11 at 1/100 sec. or f-11 at 1/50 sec. This gives you far less flexibility to properly adjust exposure.

Further, you will have increased the magnification so much that a slight breeze or a fly landing on the lens can cause vibration and blur the picture.

Before you shoot any serious pictures, you need to experiment with this lens so that you know exactly what its capability is.

Jun 23, 2011 | Opteka 500mm f8 for Pentax K

1 Answer

Len shaking when snapping

Presumably your images are blurred because of camera shake? What shutter speeds are you using? As a rule of thumb, don't use less than the focal length you are using so if shooting at 60mm, have a shutter speed faster than 1/60th of a second, if shooting at 200mm, make sure shutter speed is more than 1/200 of a second

Mar 05, 2010 | Nikon Nikkor 55-200mm f/4.5-5.6 G AF-S...

1 Answer

I am trying to use an older SIGMA 28 - 200 mm f3.5 - 5.6 DL Hyperzoom macro Aspherical AF lens with a Canon Rebel Xsi and am getting a communication error (Err 01).I have already cleaned the lens contacts...

To NOT get that error you need to use in AV mode. It's the only way that old Sigmas work with the new Canons. It's an aperture bug that old Sigma lens have and some the only way to fix it is to rechip it. The problem is that Sigma no longer rechips the lens.

May 19, 2009 | Sigma 28-200mm f/3.5-5.6 DL Aspherical...

1 Answer

When taking pictures of the full moon , useing a 300mm lens with a3x converter i could not get a good focus at infinity /

What is the question?

I'm going to assume that you're getting a featureless white blob for the moon, and you want to know how to fix it.

Switch to manual exposure mode. The camera's meter is trying to make the entire scene a midrange. Since the scene is dominated by a black sky, it will overexpose in an attempt to make the sky come out gray, resulting in the full moon washing out completely.

Think about what you're photographing. It's a big rock under a midday sun, isn't it? The proper exposure for that is the "Sunny-Sixteen-Rule." That simply means that the proper exposure is f/16 at a shutter speed of 1/ISO. So, for ISO 200, use an exposure of f/16 at 1/200 seconds, or an equivalent (such as f/11 at 1/400 seconds, etc.)

If you're using a digital camera, you can check the exposure and the histogram immediately and adjust if necessary. If you're shooting film, bracket a couple of stops in each direction.

Aug 17, 2008 | Pentax Camera Lenses

1 Answer

NIKON 50mm 1.8 ---"Err" on top panel display if aperture setting is not at f1.8

this same thing is happening to me on my D70s.
i posted about it at and everyone is stumped.
i already returned the lens and got a new one...
same problem. i don't know what's wrong.
does anyone here have any insight?

Aug 10, 2008 | Nikon Normal AF Nikkor 50mm f/1.8D...

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