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Hunter Fan problem

I have a Hunter fan, with a remote. The remote has a p/n of 85094-01; I don't know the fan model number. The remote has pretty much quit working, although it will intermittenly turn the light off and on. However, neither the remote nor the pull chain will turn the fan on. It is a three-speed fan, yet I can't get the fan to kick on to save my life. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks, Joel

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  • jtsmith3 Dec 02, 2008

    Upon removal, it looks like my Hunter fan has four different components that control the power going to the motor windings. I have a four-wire (3-speed) fan switch with a pull chain, a forward/reverse switch, and two black, sealed, electronic "thing-a-ma-jigs". Both electronic components are actually fairly small, and retangular-shaped. One is made by SK and the other has "JT" printed on it.

    The only component that has a good part number is the fan switch. It was manufactured by Zing, p/n ZE-208S6. How can I figure out if the switch has gone out vs. one of the two electronic components? Joel

  • jtsmith3 Dec 02, 2008

    I just broke out my fluke meter, and I have power all the way up to my fan switch. I still don't know how to check the two electronic components mentioned in my last post.... Any suggestions?



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Thge black boxes are capacitors. One is a single and the other is a dual. Evidently the dual runs the two lower speeds and the single run the high speed.

You can test capacitors for basic operation with an analog voltmeter set to Ohms (Rx1 setting is best) by charging up the capacitor with the leadshooked up in one direction, and then reversing them to watch for the slight jump as the capacitor discharges back into the meter... note that this test only works with an analog meter and it must be set to ohms.

This is only a basic test for capacitors and will not indicate if it's withing specs, only that it basically works.

IMO, Hunter is known for having bad capacitors. I've just purchased two fans and already had to swap out the light kits, which contains the capacitors and switches, in one becuse of poor operation and excessive humming noise. since the other fans has the same componenets, other than being a different color, I also thought to try the light kit/capacitor assembly in the fan I've already installed before also installing the second fan.

Guess what, the other set of electircal components with the capacitors runs the fan slower and hums louder.

According to Hunter's web site, humming is a sign of poor engineering in ceiling fans (meaning a power hum rather than a hum from loose components) I agree and Lowes is about to get two Hunter fans back as my three cheapo fans that came with my house do not hum and also the one in my old house did not hum and moved more air.

Even the better capacitor set that I switched out still hums to some degree, so I'm climing Hunter's using **** components, probably becuse their chinese suppliers are screwing them and they're not bothering to keep up the quality control.

Posted on Jun 08, 2010

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Joel, you could have anything from a loosened connection in the connection box above the fan, in the fan, or in the wall switch if installed.

because the remote or pull chain will not start the fan, it tells me the fan windings or bearings are probably bad.

I don't know what age this fan is, or the cost, but if it is a typical hardware type fan, I would look into a new one.

If for some reason, it is one of the more expensive fans Hunter makes, [over $200.00] it might be worth looking into repair, anything under $100.00 you will spend more finding the issue than a new fan would cost.

Let me know, we are experts in ceiling fans, especially older fans, some of those are very expensive, built with brass cages, have custom blades, I hand wound one hanging in an Art Gallery to this day, cost twenty years ago to rebuild it completely was over $2000.00 [four zeros]

It is a very common repair cost versus new price evaluation, you have a problem in that two devices will not start the fan, one mechanical method and one electrical which is 90% chance it is something fairly severe in the fan.

You can send me the some photos or estimates of the cost, if it is one of the high dollar fans, I can help you find a shop locally to look at it, again if it is a typical off the shelf unit, get a new one.


Posted on Dec 02, 2008

  • William Babbitt
    William Babbitt Dec 02, 2008

    I am not sure what the black boxes are, in there somewhere should be some kind of receiver for the remote.

    The switches can be removed, and tested with an ohm meter, this will tell you if the switch has failed open, however, I doubt the remote turns the manual switch on. In other words when you push on/off on the remote the chain doesn't go up and down.

    From that I have to assume no matter what switch is used something is wrong past the switch on the LOAD SIDE, this would be windings, MAYBE A THERMAL OVERLOAD PROTECTER, , then if the bearing or bearings have failed [it might spin manually but if a sleeve or plain bearing wears enough, spinning by hand will be OK but once power is applied the tolerances are so loose the rotor locks to the stator]

    Not knowing what the black boxes are, test the switches with a continuity tester or ohm meter, I prefer ohm meters because an ohm meter will show open and closed, but a ohm meter will show open, if that is the case, and also high resistance readings, if burnt, which will tell you carbon tracking has occured.

    So mark the leads well, remove the switches and test, if they work, then you have to measure the motor windings to ground, check for mechanical binding or wear, I doubt there is a capacitor, but if there is one, it should be rounded or a metal can looking device, but I believe hunters use straight splt phase motors no caps.

    Let me know how it goes.



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It should be some fault in the power supply.check it or consult a technician.

Posted on Dec 02, 2008

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