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Power button on front bezel broke and 2 of the little spider legs broke off. cannot turn computer. need oem button or replacement button. wires are fine. emachines T2042

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You might also try and see if someone is giving away an old computer with good case that maybe has a fried internal on it for Free on Craiglist or the dump even. I bought a used parts from Goodwill too. Who knows maybe you will learn how to fix things you didn't even know you could before. Doesn't hurt anything to tinker with broken stuff.

Posted on Mar 20, 2013

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Dude it's probably simpler to get a new case (with a working power botton) that you can use with the internal components than to get a replacement for your power bottom (for which the only feasible option would be emachines and chances are the product could discontinued)
you have a midtower (more than likely is an ATX Case) and you may be able to get one for less than 40 bucks at tiger direct.
putting everything onto the new case may take some time and may cost you extra (get a friend to do it for ya for a few bucks, it's not hard at all but it takes care and patience plus above average knowledge on computers)

Posted on Dec 02, 2008

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The power on and off bottom in my e-machines t2220 tower can I fix it?

A) The professional method:
Replace the Power On switch, that is located inside the plastic Power On Button assembly.

B) Non-professional:
Using an ATX power on switch, and externally.

I'll try to keep it short, but it never seems to!

The plastic front of your computer is the Front Panel.
The Front Panel removes.

Access to the Power On Button assembly, is achieved by removing the Front Panel, then the Center Bezel.

(I double-space sentences in the hope, that it is easier for someone to read; using their phone)

Front view of your eMachines T2220,

View of the removable Center Bezel, (Which of course, has the Power On Button assembly in it),

Viewing the right side of the Center Bezel image, note what looks like TABS; protruding from the right side.

These Tabs are what hold the Center Bezel, to the plastic Front Panel. They are on both sides.

Moving forward..........

Looking at the front of the computer, the left Side Panel removes.
Should be two Thumbscrews to loosen.

They are loosened all the way, and should Not remove completely.
(But if the little lock clip is missing, it/they may)

The back edge of the left Side Panel, should also have a finger-pull formed in it.
The Side Panel is pulled to the back of the computer.

The Side Panel should have Tabs on the top edge, and bottom edge.
These tabs also have a hooked end.

Due to this, the Side Panel is pulled back until it stops, then moved very slightly forward, and brought straight out to remove.


Now follow Anti-Static Procedures;

Your body carries Static electricity. Static WILL fry out (Short Circuit), the delicate hardware components inside a computer.
Relieve your body of Static BEFORE reaching inside your computer.

Computer on a table, computer unplugged from power, computer case open;
TOUCH an unpainted surface, of the metal frame of the open, computer case.
This action will relieve your body of Static.

IF, you leave your computer in the middle of working on it, be SURE to Touch the metal frame again upon your return.

Moving on.......

I BELIEVE, that the Center Bezel can be removed, without having to remove the Front Panel.
I however may be wrong.

The tabs that lock the Center Bezel to the Front Panel, may not be able to be released; until the Front Panel itself is removed.

(I know. It's beginning to look like fun(?), huh?)

IF, the Center Bezel itself can be removed, then only the wires for the;
1) Power On switch
2) Power On LED light
3) Harddrive activity LED light,

,may need to be disconnected.

However; if the Front Panel needs to be removed, it gets a little more complicated.

The Front Panel also has two USB ports, in it; plus a Headphone jack, and Microphone jack.

Doesn't take a rocket scientist to disconnect those wires from the motherboard, but does make it a little more complicated.

So.........see if you can ease the Center Bezel out. Make take using a flat tipped tool to start.
(I'm going to 'hate myself in the morning'.........
Tool perhaps like a butterknife )

Don't get Neanderthal on it, just see if you can ease the Center Bezel off, by working on one side.
If it doesn't just pop off -> Stop.

Remove the Front Panel.

You may wish to make notes, and a drawing, BEFORE disconnecting the wires from the motherboard; as to where those wires go.

However the motherboard is an ECS L7VMM, and here is how to access the motherboard manual,

Click on the Download tab.
(Features / Specification / Download / Certification / FAQ / etc)

Click on the blue Down Arrow, to the right of the - Select OS - box.
Click on any Ol' Windows O/S that you want.
You are just going after the manual.

In the list click on -> + Manual(1)

(OS, and O/S stands for Operating System)

Also if you post back in a Comment, and need help in reconnecting those wires; I should be able to guide you step, by step.

Front Panel, or Center Bezel off;

The Power On Button assembly should have plastic tabs on it.
They snap into slots in the Center Bezel.
Due to the age, and constant heat, they may be BRITTLE.

I would use a hair dryer set on low heat, and with constantly moving the hair dryer nozzle back and forth slowly; soften the plastic tabs.
Then see if you can remove the Power On Button assembly.

The Power On switch, should be a part of the plastic Power On Button assembly.
At this point I use the hair dryer again, and soften it's plastic tabs enough; so I can ease the Power On switch out.

This style of Power On switch is used for a LOT of computers, and it may be the same for yours,

The non-professional approach of course, is to connect an ATX power on switch like the example; and hang it out of the Power On Button's hole, after removing Power On Button assembly from Center Bezel.

If you have never worked on a computer before, the above may seem daunting. (Also because I over detail, what could be more simply put)

However it is my belief that conversing back, and forth in Comments; I should be able to help you overcome any problems you may have with this.


Mar 28, 2013 | eMachines T2200 PC Desktop

1 Answer

Power switch will not work

"She's kinda got a little age on her Captain" (Scottie / Star Trek)

The computer is old enough that I'm betting the Power Supply is bad. However could just be the Power On switch.

Gonna' be a long read, better put the coffee pot on.

There is a simple test to see if the problem is a $5 Power On switch, or the Power Supply.
Involves bypassing the Power On switch.
Does NOT involve the wires of the Power On switch, nor the switch itself, however.

The Power Supply of your computer is a converter. It converts 100 to 240 Volts AC, to three low DC voltages;

A) 3.3 Volts DC
B) 5 Volts DC
C) 12 Volts DC

In comparison two D cell flashlight batteries produce 3 Volts DC.

Stated in case there was concern about getting shocked.

Let's go to HP Support;

HP Support > Pavilion a735w Desktop PC > Main Support page,

A look at the motherboard; (No hardware installed, Top View),

Product information > Product specifications > Motherboard Specifications, A7V8X-LA (Kelut),

Scroll down to the motherboard layout illustration, and motherboard photo.
In the layout illustration look at the right side. Look at the vertical (Rectangular) 'box' with ATX Power Connector in it.

Looking at the motherboard photo you will note, it is a whitish connector with two columns of 10 socket holes.

You will see it has a 20-pin ATX main power cable in it, like this general example, (NOTE* Color does NOT matter for connectors),

The ATX main power cable will be plugged in, as shown by the photo to the far right.
A jumper wire is used to bypass the Power On switch.

The preferred jumper wire is a straightened out paperclip, bent into a U-shape.
The top of the U, is wrapped a few times with black plastic electrical tape. This taped area is for your fingers, and thumb to hold onto.

Turn the U over, and it is the 'legs' of the U that you are going to use.

The BACK of the ATX main power cable's connector, is where the wires go in.
This is where the U-shaped jumper wire goes also.

One 'leg' goes down in a socket hole, RIGHT NEXT TO the existing wire that is in the socket hole; and the GREEN wire.
The Green wire is the Soft Power On wire.

The leg slides down right next to the insulation of the wire, and touches a metal terminal, at the end of the wire.
This is an example of the metal terminal,

(Left side of metal terminal shown, is crimped around the insulation of the wire. This is what the U-shaped jumper wire touches. The right side shown is partially visible, in the center photo of the above Playtool link. Just the tip openings are shown. Like sort of like brass O shapes )

The leg of the U-shaped jumper wire has to go pretty far down in the socket, to touch that metal terminal. The jumper wire MUST touch that metal terminal. (About 3/8ths of an Inch, or about 9.5mm)

The other leg of the jumper wire, goes down into ANY socket hole that has a Black wire in it. ALL Black wires are Ground wires. (Negative)

Power Supply (Computer) plugged into power, use the U-shaped jumper wire.

(Bend to fit before plugging computer into power, to test fit first.
Not stating that there may be a small spark, as you connect.

That's the way electricity works. Use a D cell flashlight battery, flashlight bulb, and a small wire. There is a small spark when you connect.
For this reason you may also wish to wear a glove, on the 'jumper wire hand' )

Using the jumper wire, and;
1) Computer (Power Supply) comes on, you have a bad Power On switch.
2) Computer (Power Supply) does NOT come on, you have a bad Power Supply.

The two leading causes of desktop computer failure is;
Computer is dirty inside
Bad Power Supply

How to open the computer case,

Main Support page > How to > Adding / Replacing hardware > Opening the PC case,

(Watch out! Video has volume turned ALL the way up! You may wish to turn your volume down, before clicking on the above link)

Make a drawing/s, and notes as to where the wires go, before removing the Power Supply.
Especially the Front Panel header wires.

The Front Panel is the plastic bezel on the front of your computer.
The area of contact pins on the motherboard, that the main wires from the Front Panel go to; is the Front Panel header.

Sometimes one, or more wires may accidentally be popped off.

FOLLOW Anti-Static Precautions.

Anti-Static Precautions:
Your body carries Static electricity. Static WILL fry out, (Short Circuit), the delicate hardware components inside a computer
Relieve your body of Static, BEFORE reaching inside your unplugged from power, computer.

Computer on a table, computer Unplugged from power, computer case open;
TOUCH an unpainted surface, of the metal frame of the open computer case.
This action will relieve your body of Static.

IF you leave your computer in the middle of working on it, be SURE to Touch the metal frame again, upon your return.

(Don't forget to plug back into power, before using the U-shaped jumper wire)

The Power On switch is an ATX power on switch, like this general example,

The Power On switch is located inside the plastic housing, of the Power On Button assembly.
You have to remove the Front Panel, to access it.

HP Support main page above > How To > Adding/Replacing hardware > Removing the Front Cover

Power On Button assembly removed, (Make sure you note, which pins in the Front Panel header on the motherboard, those Power On switch wires connect to), I use a hair dryer to soften the plastic.

Soften the plastic of the Power On Button assembly.
It gets brittle with age, and heat.
I soften it enough to ease a tab out a little, and maybe the opposite tab, and ease the old Power On switch out.

You'll see what I mean, once you have the Power On Button assembly in your hand.

Tab on Power On Button assembly broke, no matter how much finesse you used? Happens. I 'dot it' with a small blob of hot glue, for a hot glue gun.

(When finished after replacing a Power Supply, take the Ram Memory module/s out ('Stick'), and reinstall. They always seem to get bumped.
Visually inspecting will NOT do. You have to remove, and reinstall; to be assured they/it are installed correctly, and tightly.

May wish to do the same after replacing a Power On switch, also)

For additional questions please post in a Comment.

Nov 25, 2012 | HP Pavilion a735w (PL308AAR) PC Desktop

1 Answer

Replace power button gateway sx 2311

Computer unplugged from power, FOLLOW Anti-Static Precautions.

1) Remove the Side Panel.
Viewing the computer from the Front; the Right Side Panel removes. Remove screw, pull Side Panel to the rear of the computer.

Click on the large main photo.
There are 9 smaller views shown. 3 across, and 3 rows.
Bottom row, click on the photo in the Middle.
Shows Rear view of computer.

Along the back edge of the Side Panel, is a finger pull handle formed out of the Side Panel. There also looks to be two screws. One above the pull handle, one down towards the bottom.

2) Remove the Front Bezel.
Click on the Middle row/middle photo.
Also look at Middle row, 3rd photo. (Photo all the way to right)

There are 3 Black tab locks, formed out of the plastic of the Front Bezel. One towards the Top, one in the Middle, and one towards the Bottom.

If memory serves these tabs are gently pulled to the outside, to release the Front Bezel. Ease the Top tab out a little, and Middle tab.

Start easing the Front Bezel away from the metal framework, of the computer case, a little. Then release the Bottom tab.
Front Bezel should swing, and then come off.

Not your Gateway model of computer case, but this Gateway model shows the plastic Tabs to release,

The Power On Button is an assembly. The plastic housing of the Power On Button assembly, has a Power On switch inside.
I gently heat the plastic with a hair dryer, moving the hair dryer back, and forth at it.

Once the tabs of the plastic, of the Power On Button assembly, is softened; then I remove the Power On switch.

I have found this ATX power on switch, fits a LOT of desktop computers,

For additional questions please post in a Comment.

Nov 19, 2012 | Computers & Internet

1 Answer

How to replace power button

1) Unplug from power
2) FOLLOW Anti-Static Precautions

[Anti-Static Precautions:

Your body carries Static electricity. Static WILL fry out (Short Circuit), the delicate hardware components inside a computer.
Relieve your body of Static BEFORE reaching inside your computer.

Computer on a table, computer unplugged from power, computer case open;
TOUCH an unpainted surface, of the metal frame of the open computer case.
This action will relieve your body of Static.

IF you leave your computer in the middle of working on it, be SURE to Touch the metal frame again, upon your return ]

Gateway Support > Gateway GT4010 Desktop PC > Main Support page,

Click on the Support Documents tab.
(Driver / BIOS / Applications / Patches / Support Documents / etc)

Click on the blue -> 5891 - Support Documents subheading
Click on Product Views.
Click on Rear View

Viewing the Front of your computer the Right Side Panel removes.
There are two Thumbscrews to loosen, shown by the letter C.
(They are supposed to remove all the way. If they do it's OK)

There is a finger-pull formed out of the back of the left Side Panel.
Pull towards the back of the computer. It should then swing out at the top, and can now be removed.

Go back one page, and this time click on - User Guides
Click on -

(This is a PDF file. The computer you are using now has Adobe Reader on it, which uses PDF files.
After you click on the file name it may take up to 30 seconds, before the first page comes up.
Took 10 seconds just now using a medium speed DSL connection)

Go to Page 51.
Now I would like you to go to Page 52 - Removing the front bezel

The Front Bezel is the Front Panel, of your computer.
It has 6 tabs that lock it on the metal frame of the computer case.
There are 3 of these tabs that you access, from the Side Panel opening.
It is only these 3 that need to be accessed, in order to remove the Front Bezel.

Looking at the inside, of the Front Panel, and the edge that meets the metal framework of the computer case;
One tab near the Top.
One tab in the Middle.
One tab towards the Bottom.

These tabs are plastic, and are formed out of the plastic Front Bezel.
Press the Top tab IN. (Not too hard or it may break)

Gently pull the Front Bezel towards the front of the computer, JUST A LITTLE.
Now press in on the Middle tab.
Finally press the Bottom tab in.

(Each tab has a flat hooked end. The tab itself goes through a slot, in the metal framework of the computer case. The tab must be pressed in far enough, so the flat hooked end will clear the slot, and allow the tab to slide through the slot; when the Front Bezel is pulled forward)

Tabs clear of the metal framework of the computer case; right side of Front Bezel swings out a little. (Viewed from the Front; Right side)
This will allow the tabs on the other side to release from the metal framework of the computer case.

It looks as through the Power On switch is attached to the Front Bezel.
This means use CARE, and ease the Front Bezel forward a little, away from the computer case.
Wires are still attached.

IF, you pull on the Front Bezel too hard, or too far; the wires may become unplugged from the motherboard.

IF, this happens, do not worry.
Here is the pinout information for all of those wires,

Click on Product Views.
For example; The Power On switch connects to the Front Panel header, on the motherboard. For this pinout click on -
W - Front Panel connector

9-pin header.
4 pins across the Top row.
5 pins across the Bottom row.

Starting on the Left side, going towards the Right, Top row;
Pins 2, 4, 6, and 8. There is NO Pin 10.

Starting on the Left side, going towards the Right, Bottom row;
Pins 1, 3, 5, 7, and 9.

A) Pins 1 and 3 are for the HarDDrive activity LED.
(Light. It's a Light Emitting Diode)

Pin 1 is for the Positive ( + ) wire.
If the HDD LED is dim when the Harddrive is active, switch the wires around.

B) Pins 5 and 7 are for a Reset switch, IF a Reset switch is used.

C) Pin 9 is N/C. Not Connected. 5 Volt check point reserved for the factory.

D) Pins 2 and 4 are for the Power On LED.
Pin 2 is for the Positive ( + ) wire.
IF the PWR LED is dim when the computer is on, switch the wires around.

E) Pins 6 and 8 are for the Power On switch.

F) There is NO Pin 10.

There is nothing(?) like removing a Front Panel (Front Bezel), and finding out you accidentally unplugged wires from the motherboard; and there is no pinout to connect them back.

Just makes you so HAPPY


Power On switch replacement:

The Power On Button is an assembly. Every pre-built computer manufacturer has their own design, and it can vary from MODEL to MODEL.

The main thing here is, the Power On switch usually doesn't.
This ATX power on switch is used in MANY models of Desktop PC's,

I know it's hard to see here, and I apologize for that. Best example I have found.
View what looks to be a metal square cap in the front of the view.
There is a small post that sticks out.

This post is what the plastic part of the Power On Button assembly, presses against.

Power On Button assembly may have a plastic post itself, which is returned with a coiled spring, once the Power On Button is pressed.
Or the plastic button itself, presses against that Power On switch post.

You need to soften the plastic of the Power On Button assembly, in order to remove the Power On switch.

The plastic tabs of the Power On Button assembly may break, if this is not observed. Also compounded by the fact, that the plastic of the Power On Button assembly, has been heated several times, and is now brittle. (Plus age)

I use a hair dryer set on low, (Thanks honey. I'll be right back with it, lol!), and slowly wave the nozzle of the hair dryer, back and forth across the Power On Button assembly.

Once the plastic has softened some, ease whatever tabs you need to gently move aside a little, to ease the Power On switch out.
Be aware that the plastic will cool almost instantly, and need to be softened again, before attempting to replace the Power On switch.

Or perhaps june_sells20 this is the best way to go,

Not advertising for seller, nor website. Just reference.

For additional questions please post in a Comment.


Nov 12, 2012 | Gateway GT4010 (RBGT4010) PC Desktop

1 Answer

I have tried to open the computer but could not does anyone know of a video that shows HOW my computer opens up to install memory????

All-In-One desktop computers are nice to have, but a pain in the keister when you have to work on them, or upgrade, if you are not a computer tech.

With the Acer Veriton Z290G you have to remove the LCD assembly, in order to access the Ram Memory.

Also, this information is not readily available, because of Static shock conditions.

Your body carries Static electricity. Static WILL fry out (Short Circuit) the delicate hardware components inside a computer.

Once you remove the LCD assembly you right in the middle of hardware 'heaven'.
You can easily static shock the Processor, or a number of other hardware components.
I would recommend buying an inexpensive ESD wrist strap, and connect it's alligator clip to a good ground source, before beginning.

[Average cost of an ESD wrist strap is around $5. They are available in most stores that repair computers, or online ]

I connect to an unpainted surface, of the metal frame of an empty desktop computer case.
You can also connect to an unpainted surface of a metal table leg, if the table you're working on has metal legs.

Barring none of the above applies, at least place a large metallic object on the table, and connect to it. (Unpainted)
Perhaps a metal serving tray, or metal knickknack.

1) Computer unplugged from power, press the Power On button in, and hold it in for a count of FIVE seconds. Let go of the Power On button. Do this procedure two more times.
This drains any residual power out of the computer.

I suggest using a multi-compartment container, for the various screws you will remove.
Label each compartment for the area the screw/s come out of.

If no multi-compartment container is available, you can substitute with a clean egg carton.
Label each egg holder.
You can also use a piece of double-sided tape.

2) Remove the Computer Stand.
I would suggest laying a towel on a table, then lay the computer face down on it.
Where the stand hinge pivots, is a small U-shaped cover in the middle. This cover is removed with your fingers.

There are 3 screws in a triangle pattern to remove.
Lay the stand aside.

3) Remove the Side Bars
Looking at the back of the computer, there is a screw to remove in each outside Bottom corner.

Once the two screws are removed, slide each Side Bar down. This disengages the bar's inner tabs from the chassis.
Lay the Side Bars aside.

4) Remove the Front Bezel.
(The plastic thin frame that surrounds the LCD screen, and is in front of the LCD screen. Resembles a picture frame)

Computer laid on it's front, the Front Bezel is 'popped' off.
The Bezel is attached to the chassis with small plastic protrusions, formed out of the Bezel.

There are four on one side, and four on the other side.

These plastic tabs snap into place when the Bezel is installed.
The procedure is to CAREFULLY use a flat tipped Jewelers screwdriver, and ease along the Bezel, in-between the Bezel, and the back cover.
{Better is to use a plastic computer spud tool, }

This will be the hardest part of the procedure.

The tip is eased in, and NOT very far in depth.
Start at the top of the Bezel's frame, and ease the Bezel off a little bit. You may, or may not, hear a tab snap when it releases.

Go down a space of an inch, or so, and ease the Bezel frame out some more. Keep going down on one side until you reach the bottom.
Now go to the other side.
Once you are over 3/4ths of the way, the Bezel should come free.

Turn the laptop over on it's back, holding onto the Bezel.
There is still a webcam cable attached, so use care.
The white connector of the webcam cable is eased out of the webcam.
(Use the connector, NOT the wires. Use your fingernails, or CAREFULLY use a flat tipped Jewelers screwdriver)
It only plugs in, in one direction, and is keyed, so there is no problem reinstalling.

5) You are now looking at the LCD screen assembly, and the metal frame which surrounds it.
There are 3 screws to remove from each side.

The LCD screen assembly is eased over to access it's cables.
I suggest placing another towel down to protect the screen.

Disconnect the LCD cable (Video cable), and the Inverter cables, FROM the motherboard. Observe how they are routed in the clips. Make notes, and/or take photos, as these cables MUST be rerouted back the same way.
(Edit: The LCD cable is an FFC also, and the connector is a ZIF connector)

Disconnect the orange Touchscreen Film Cable, from the touchscreen control board. (Small circuit board)

The touchscreen film cable is an FFC.
Flat Flex Cable.
It has no connector on the end. It's a plastic strip with wires in it, and the wires have contact points.

The connector on the touchscreen control board is a ZIF connector. Zero Insertion Force.

The FFC slides into the ZIF connector, and is locked into place with a small lock bar.
The connector itself is White. The lock bar is Black.

For this particular style of ZIF connector, the lock bar is tilted up.
If the lock bar is removed, you will break the connector, and are probably looking at a motherboard replacement.

6) Remove the Memory Modules.
Same procedure as for a laptop computer.
There are spring clips on each side of the ram memory module ('Stick')

Once the 'bump' on each spring clip, has cleared the Side Notch of the ram memory module, the ram memory module will slightly pop up.

DO NOT remove the ram memory module in a 90 degree position!
If you do you will damage the gold plated contact pins on the bottom of the ram memory module, and the contacts in the ram memory slot.

The ram memory module is removed at a 45 degree position.

For additional questions please post in a Comment.


Oct 09, 2011 | Computers & Internet

1 Answer

I have an Emachince W2686 and I need a face plate for it. The button got stuck and it pulled the wires completely off the back of it. What do I do to fix this problem?

Pulled the wires off of just the Power On switch?

(Goes inside the Power On button)

Or did you pull ALL the wires off of the Front Panel? (Also known as Front Bezel)

The eMachines W2686 uses a NexGen computer case.

Is this NexGen Front Bezel like yours?

May 14, 2010 | E-Machines eMachines W2686 PC Desktop

2 Answers

How do i replace the switch on my system

Dear sir,

Welcome to Fixya
No worry ! I will help you!
According to you, your PC switch is faulty.I am right?
Before replacing switch,you have to confirm the problem is from switch side,or from any other side. To confirm this, remove side cover of your PC cabinet,search for front panel connections of mother board,check for loose contacts.If it is correct,remove power button jack from the board.Take one plat head screwdriver, short +ve and -ve ends of MBD frontpanel power ON switch terminals.If your PC starts normally, PC switch is faulty,you have to replace switch.If PC fails to switch on problem is not from switch side.

Steps To Replace PC power ON switch.

Remove both side covers of cabinet then,remove front glossy panel which is having power on switch. After removing glossy front panel,open the lock of power ON switch,then replace it with new switch.

I think it helps
If you have any problem regarding this issue leave a comment. We are happy to assist you,

Have a Nice Day!

Mar 27, 2010 | Gateway GT4022 PC Desktop

1 Answer

Console button broke for power on

You would have to replace the front bezel of the system as you cannot just source the power button. the same is available below

Thanks for using fixya

Aug 15, 2009 | HP Media Center m7060n PC Desktop

2 Answers

Front Panel switch

Please contact the reseller that sold you the computer

Mar 27, 2009 | HP Pavilion a450n PC Desktop

1 Answer

Power on button for hp a305w


Here is a manual that explains how to remove the front bezel. Please follow only steps 1 - 8 and 14 - 18. The rest of the steps are not necessary for this issue.

After you have the front bezel disconnected, I would suggest checking the button on the bezel for debris that may be blocking it from making good connection (ie. dust or fuzz) which can be cleaned by a vacuum cleaner hose or compressed air can.

This may also be a good time to test and see if the actual button on the case works correctly with the front bezel removed. You will need to follow steps 17 - 18 to reconnect the machine to power. You should see a small metal button in the lower center of the case that should be the power button. It may be somewhat recessed so you may need to press it with a pencil or something. If you have trouble finding this, you can lean the bezel against the chassis and you should be able to locate it by matching where the power button is on the bezel to the chassis.

If the machine starts ok, you will need to let the machine start completely and then do a normal shutdown using the Start button and choosing Shut down or turn off depending on your operating system. After you have verified that everything is OK with that, follow steps 1 - 2 to disconnect from power again.

Now you should be able to follow steps 14-18 to put the side and front back on and connect to power.


Jul 16, 2008 | HP Pavilion a305w (DM181AR) PC Desktop

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