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Defective stop valve located where the inlet hose connects to the water line.
Problem 1 usually no water will enter. It usually works or not.
Problem 2 and 3 the situation is the tub begins not to fill and over time the filter closes completely or the stop valve plugs completely.
If you open the door after the fill cycle and you have not heard the unit fill it is most likely the fill solenoid. Partially filled need to look at the stop valve. The rubber washer of the valve deteriorates and loosens relocating over the hole plugging the water from going through. When you try to shut off the valve it in most cases will not close water tight. You can replace the stem and washer if you can find the same hardware type.
The solenoid replacement can usually be axcessed from the front but requires a skilled technican.
if you can reverse the solenoid valve wire connections,then use the door water fill to activate this valve,but not long as it will overfill the icemaker,this will certify that theres water getting up to the icemaker,then it could be the maker itself not activating the icemakers water valve assy to fill the maker
either the hose screen inside the fill hose is plugged with lime/rust/etc. or the water solenoid is defective or not getting power from the controls,on some fill valves there is a thermistor that senses water temps as it fills and this part could also be defective,you can test this valve with a cheater cord to see if it opens,or unplug the machine and use an ohmmeter to test the solenoids coil for continuity,if good plug it in and check for voltage(normally 120 volts A.C.)on the solenoids terminals during the fill cycle
HI, this is a defective water valve assembly. you must replace this assembly asap, if possible. this will fix you issue.
The inlet valve connects the hot and cold water from your home to the back of the washer. The valve solenoids on the valve open one or both valves to provide the proper water temperature for the wash cycle. If the valves are blocked or the solenoids do not activate, the symptoms may include no water, low water pressure, the wrong water temperature or water entering the tub even when the machine is off.
A bad circuit board should not make any noises. A bad solenoid valve could make a loud buzzing noise. If the noise is a squealing noise then you have defective bearings in the blower motor.
If you disconnect the low voltage wiring from the solenoid valve and you still hear the noise, then its not the solenoid valve.
If the noise is only when there is water flowing, check tighten the screws that mount the water fill solenoid valves to the case. The solenoids operate on line current so they vibrate at 60/50Hz (local suppply frequency) if they are loose at all, the noise is loud the body acts as resonators
For SRONEAL, that symptom describes coupling failure exactly, have you removed the coupling to check, often times the motor side hub is stripped, but there is no visible external damage
You either have a defective pressure switch or water inlet valve. Start to fill the machine with warm water so that both solenoids on the water inlet valve (hot and cold) are activated. After about 30-60 seconds, push the timer knob in to stop water flow. If the water continues to flow, replace the water inlet valve. If this is the case, it may take a few times of starting and stopping water flow to allow solenoid to heat up and become symptomatic. If water flow stops abruptly each time knob is pushed in, you most likely have a defective pressure switch (water level switch).