Well i went to hook up my jensen ka-3 2 channel amp and i connected up the ground then right as i touched the 12v to the amp it sparked like there was a short but i hooked up a different amp and it worked fine id like to know whats wrong.
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First check to see if your'e getting power to the amp by using a test light and touch the main power(12V battery) connector on the amp, test light should come on since it's constant 12v supply. Now turn on the radio and test the remote wire connector on the amp and you should have 12V(test light should come on). Also make sure that you have a good connection with your ground wire, check both connection points to make sure it's good. Now if you have power where your'e suppose to and when your'e suppose to and the amp does not power up, then it may be time for a new amp. Try wiggling the connections at the amp a bit, the solder may be cold/loose.
REMOVE THE RCA INPUTS AND DISCONNECT THE SPEAKERS AND POWER THE AMPLIFIER UP WITH THIS NO INPUT, NO SPEAKER LOAD CONDITION. IF IT STILL GOES INTO PROTECTION AND YOU HAVE VERIFIED THAT THE POSITIVE AND ESPECIALLY THE GROUND CONNECTIONS, ALONG WITH THE REMOTE CONNECTIONS ARE 100%, THEN THE AMPLIFIER WILL NEED TO BE SERVICED. LET ME KNOW IF YOU NEED FURTHER ASSISTANCE.....V
Hi the RMT is short for remote and is connected to a 12v feed taken from the remote output from the cd player, it provides the 12v needed to turn the amplifier on when required & turns it off when the player is turned off. Do not connect this to a permanent 12v feed as the amp. will be on all the time & you will have a flat battery every morning!
You'll also need a remote turn-on source for the amp to operate. Normally, this is a blue or blue/white wire from your head unit, but for test purposes, you just need 12V to the "remote" terminal on the amp. The amp should power up without speaker inputs or speaker connections, but it is not recommended.
First remove the primary fuse on the 12V power wire.
Run a temporary wire from the NEGATIVE terminal of the battery to where the amp is located. You do not need to make a permanent connection, just wrap the wire around the terminal enough to get a good connection. Use a multimeter set to the lowest OHMS scale and test between your proposed ground connection and the negative battery terminal. A good ground will indicate near "zero" (or very near zero). If you don't get a "zero" reading, try to find a screw or bolt going into the metal of the vehicle. Again, the meter will read "zero" when you have located a good ground. Reattach the amp ground terminal to the good ground, remove the temporary test wire, reinstall the primary fuse and test the amp. If it was just the ground, you've fixed it.
to be honest with you, your best bet is to buy a new amp. cheap amps are cheap because they plan on you buying another one when they don't last. save up and buy a nice amp, thats my advice. if you really want to fix this one i wish you luck, but i've never worked on an amp before, just install and troubleshooting, so in my experience this one's fried. But i'm sure it could be fixed, the question is wether or not it is worth it?
I'd be inclined to check to make sure there isn't a short circuit somewhere in the output lines. Maybe a wire is crushed against the car's body or bare wires touching or badly fitted RCA plugs. All of these things could activate the protection circuit. If you have a multimeter it would make life easier but don't forget your speakers will show up as 4 ohms so that's not a short.