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Try rotating the load size / water level selector switch back and forth. If this works, then your switch is going out. If it keeps on filling and doesn't stop, then your selector switch OR the level sensor (both located in compartment behind controls) is bad (probably level sensor).
The motor is locked out until the water level requirement is met, then the level switch allows the motor to be turned on.
Place a level on the top of the machine and move down to the feet.The levelers have a lock on them which you must turn counter-clockwise to unlock. Now, adjust the feet until it is level. Check front to back and side to side. After leveling, run on spin with load and check feet. If one foot is not solid on the floor, adjust it down until it is. Lock the locks and you are level.
Are the front wheels turned all the way left or right?
The steering mechanism may be locked, When it is the key cannot turn. If they are turned "hard" left or right pull down in the direction they are turned...it will be hard to pull AND at the same time turn the key. This should unlock the key IF the wheels are turned this way.
Let me know if this helped and if there is any additional information I should know to help you!
Hello shon95m, Glad to hear you did some troubleshooting on the first go around of your issue, we need to do some more.I haven’t experienced this issue but will troubleshoot with you if you can tolerate the down time.I will be doing this from the schematic of the machine.In this condition with the Locked LED lit are the Lid Locks actuated not releasing the lid to open?I know you know how to release the washer top from the washer base.Can you get into Service Mode in this failure condition? First I would try the first two bullet points on page 13 of the SM for Will Not Unlock.I think you may have it, if not here are a couple of links to support troubleshooting efforts;Service Manual for reference. Sears Parts Direct for reference. If that produces no results I would next pull the right lid lock off and leave it off it’s not necessary for normal washer operation and we need to reduce the failure points for fault isolation causing the lid lock circuit to remain lit. Pull washer power plug first then pull the right lid lock off and leave it off. With the right lid lock plug pulled power up the machine does the Locked LED remain lit? Repeat the step for the left lid lock after machine power up dose the Locked LED remain lit? The “Lid Is Locked” inputs to the control board are in parallel from the left and right lid locks.From the schematic it looks like when the lid is locked +12VDC is connected thru the left and right lid locks to the input of the control board via Pin 8 of connector P3 marked on the schematic as “Lid Is Locked” input to the control board.From the schematic it looks to me that +12VDC signals the control board that the lid has successfully locked. So what is causing the Lock LED on the console?If it’s not caused by +12VDC switched to the input of the control board marked “Lid is Locked” from the left lid lock then I feel the control board has failed at component level causing this issue, but that is a WAG right now.The SM also speaks to a possible Motor Controller board as a possible fail point.If the Lock LED goes out when we pull the plug on the left lid lock then we need to open up that left lid lock and inspect for a possible corrosion paths at the plug or the left lid lock.See pic below of some nasty corrosion that can cause issues with the left lid lock assembly. Maybe we can get some other forum members to offer some additional support.I will continue to help until I hit a brick wall in troubleshooting or you need to move on.Rich
you need to call a locksmith to come to your home. They will replace one or more of the tumblers/cylinders inside the ignition key area. The EXACT same thing happened to me. The Chrysler dealership wanted to charge me over $400 to fix the problem. My wonderful mobile locksmith knew exactly what was srong the nanosecond I mentions the make and model! $49.00 later - FIXED! good luck!
The steering column sounds locked. Try turning the steering wheel all the way left or right till you hear it unlock or until the key can turn. Note; You must use force to unlock the steering column and don't be scared because it won't break anything.
remove edge decore trims from left and right side front of control panel
remove phillips screws from bottom corners of contol panel
remove knob from water level selector
raise control panel ~1 inch then flip over backwords on pivots
depress lock tab on righ/underside of water level control body where it touches metal mount plate
rotate water level control body 90deg anticolckwise
pull body off
top side of body next to knob shaft is 1/8 hex head bolt
turn clockwise to rais water level
anticlockwise to lower water level
machine can be operated with this part not fitted so can check level. fill, adjust screw, fill will start again, adjust screw, until water level is correct
reinstall in reverse order
If you have mice in the house, they may have gotten around the moving parts underneath and urinated and so forth on the working parts. My dad had go in and use a break-free lubricant and physically force the gears to move again in order to free up the working parts. It was bad. Would'nt move at all. Now it moves good again, but I have to find someone to fix the timing of the gears. It's out of timing, but it moves again.