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Re: fence will not lock in place
You adjust the handle tension by actually adjusting the t-square itself, changing the relative position it sits from the rect tube mounted to the saw.
This is done by turning the two allen set screws mounted in the angle iron that is welded to the fence. There are a couple of tabs that ride along the inside face of the rect tube when the fence slides from side to side. You'll see that each of these tabs is adjustable, in or out, by slightly turning the allen set screws with an allen wrench. BOTH of these must be adjusted, so that you maintain the fence's 'squareness' to the table.
What I do is line up the edge of the fence with the mitre slot in the saw table, feeling the edge of the fence as it hangs over the edge of the mitre slot, both at the infeed and outfeed end of the slot. It should be perfectly flush at both ends.
By turning the set screws in or out a little, you can adjust the handle tension to the place where you like it (you don't need to force it into position to have it hold firmly; that's too tight). Then check the squareness of the fence by clamping it down along the edge of the mitre jig slot, and see if it's parrallel. If not, you need to adjust one or both screws to make it parrallel, and get the tension right. You may have to go back and forth a few times, but eventually you can dial it in to where it feels just right and the alignment is correct. Think small adjustments.
At the same time, put a little dab of wheel bearing grease or vaseline on the cam of the fence handle where it rubs against that little flap. This will make it easier to engage when the tension is firm and keep it from wearing abrasively.
This fence is a joy to use when it's dialed in. I hope you find this information helpful. Happy woodworking!
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The adjustment handle snaps down to lock. If the handle is coming loose, I recommend replacing the handle. You can also go to standard bar bolt set up if you prefer. Check with your Husqvarna dealer for part numbers.
look for a belt tenshoner pulley, on some they have a place to insert a hex hey or a standard bolt, use a wrachet with a long handle and push the tensioner down away from the belt because its on a loaded spring. while holding the tensioner down with one hand, slip the belt off the pulley. release the tensioner and slip of the belt. When putting on the new belt repeat the same steps; tensior pushed down, slip on the belt release tensioner
Hi Ken, Sounds like you need to to adjust your fence.I use the blade from a combination square.Place the steel blade next to the saw blade(between the carbide teeth).Next loosen the fence lock,loosen the two hex bolts on the rear pinion assembly so that the fence can move side to side.Move the fence up to the combo blade and adjust the fence and lock the fence lock.Check for blade and fence for true.Tighten the hex bolts at the rear pinion bearing assembly. Thank You for choosing FixYa.com.
This is the fundamental problem with rip fences on table saws. I don't know what kind of rip fence you have, but most rip fences are adjustable for squareness. However, unless you have a very nice (and expensive) rip fence, they often don't self-align when you move them anyway. If you have the type that clamps at the front and the back of the table, the problem can be overcome by making sure the rip fence is straight before you clamp it in place. The easiest way I have found to do that is to use an adjustable square. Put the front of the rip fence where you want it, then set the adjustable square so that it matches the distance from the miter slot in the table to the fence. Then move the square to the back of the table and move the back of the fence to meet the end of the square. Now clamp it in place and check the front and the back one more time. It's tedious to do this every time you adjust the fence, but you can get a perfectly aligned fence this way. This method assumes that your blade is parallel to your miter slots, which is adjustable too, but you have to get underneath the saw to do that.
That fence is one of the easiest to adjust and maintain. Look behind the lock at the white squares that slide along the front of the fence, one missing? Or worn down past the other side? It has a screw on the outside to adjust it in and out. It is a big Allen head. Line the fence up to a saw slot in the table, lock it loosely, adjust the screws so the fence is aligned with the slot, move it and bring it back, it should match up. Make sure it has the nylon pads on there or it wear through the aluminum real fast. Check it out, Hope this helps.
On mine, the lever operates a long rod that runs through the fence. On the fence rear, there is an adjustment screw that sets the clamp tension. If you need any parts, go to: Searspartsdirect.com and enter the complete model number minus the decimal point. Hope this helps!
You should be able to adjust the fence but every model is different so I probably cannot tell you exactly how. My Biesemeyer fence has 2 set screws on front guide of the fence for parallel adjustment to the blade (this fence is a single piece fence). I had a Sears contractor saw that had 2 bolts on the top of the fence that needed to be loosened, the fence moved parallel, and the bolts tightened again (the Sears fence was a bolt together fence).Whatever fence you have I would think the adjustment would be on the front part of the fence. I would remove the fence (the fence only, not the guides) from your table saw and take a close look at it for any adjustment screws (the Biesemeyer set screws are somewhat hidden) . If the fence bolts together you will probably need to loosen the bolts to do the alignment. There is a quick check you can make to verify the problem is the fence not being parallel to the blade because your problem could also be caused by a bent saw blade arbor (the saw blade would wobble as it turns) øLock your fence down and measure from the front of the blade to the fence and from the back of the blade to the fence. These measurements should be within 1/32” (ideally is should be zero). øIf the fence passes the test above, you can see if your saw blade shaft is bent by sliding the fence very near the blade, locking the fence down, and rotation the blade by hand (unplug the saw first). If the blade rubs on the fence as it rotates then you could have a bent arbor, a bad arbor bearing, or a bent blade.
Most jointers can be set beyond 90 degrees. This allows boards to be beveled at angles over 90. There should be a locking handle or lever to hold it at the angle you want. If you want 90 degrees, adjust it to a framing square and lock it.
Without knowing the full problem, (theheader is cut off) I would ask are you using the fence to help you rip? and when does the board jamb? If it jambs toward the back of the saw the guide might not be square with the blade. I would unplug it and put something that you know is square on the front edge of the blade away from the teeth and adjust the fence so that it is just snub then lock down the table and move the square to the back of saw, it should move with no resistance. If it does then the fence is out. What you would need to do if this is the case is align the fence to the blade, on the back of the saw are 2 10MM bolts that you need to loosen put your square at the front again and lock down the handle with that done move the square to the back and tap the rail on the back side to move tighter or looser and then lock down the bolts. What I do is move the fence away and then back and start all over again to make sure nothing shifted. It sounds more involved than it is. Let me know if this cures your problem