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Re: fence will not lock in place
You adjust the handle tension by actually adjusting the t-square itself, changing the relative position it sits from the rect tube mounted to the saw.
This is done by turning the two allen set screws mounted in the angle iron that is welded to the fence. There are a couple of tabs that ride along the inside face of the rect tube when the fence slides from side to side. You'll see that each of these tabs is adjustable, in or out, by slightly turning the allen set screws with an allen wrench. BOTH of these must be adjusted, so that you maintain the fence's 'squareness' to the table.
What I do is line up the edge of the fence with the mitre slot in the saw table, feeling the edge of the fence as it hangs over the edge of the mitre slot, both at the infeed and outfeed end of the slot. It should be perfectly flush at both ends.
By turning the set screws in or out a little, you can adjust the handle tension to the place where you like it (you don't need to force it into position to have it hold firmly; that's too tight). Then check the squareness of the fence by clamping it down along the edge of the mitre jig slot, and see if it's parrallel. If not, you need to adjust one or both screws to make it parrallel, and get the tension right. You may have to go back and forth a few times, but eventually you can dial it in to where it feels just right and the alignment is correct. Think small adjustments.
At the same time, put a little dab of wheel bearing grease or vaseline on the cam of the fence handle where it rubs against that little flap. This will make it easier to engage when the tension is firm and keep it from wearing abrasively.
This fence is a joy to use when it's dialed in. I hope you find this information helpful. Happy woodworking!
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Are you wanting to square the blade to the rip fence, to the miter fence or does the blade show runout?
To square the rip fence to the blade, lay a combination square or engineer's square along the blade with the short leg against the closest end of the fence and even with the near end of the blade. Slide the square along the blade so that the short leg is even with the far end of the blade. Loosen the lock knob and move the far end of the fence until it touches the leg of the square. Tighten the lock knob. Recheck and adjust the fence until it is perfectly square to the blade.
Adjust the miter fence to the blade in a similar fashion except that the short leg of the square will lay against the miter fence. Adjust until the long leg is aligned with the blade. The instructions for these adjustments are in the owner's manual. You can download a copy at this website: http://www.makita.com/en-us/Modules/Tools/ToolSupport.aspx?ID=604
Copy and paste this entire address into your browser and a page will open with 2 Adobe documents. One is for the owner's manual, the other for the parts breakdown.
If you have blade runout, remove it from the saw and lay it flat. Check for warping and if warped, replace it.
Hope this helps. If it does, I'd appreciate your vote. Thanks,
Hi Ken, Sounds like you need to to adjust your fence.I use the blade from a combination square.Place the steel blade next to the saw blade(between the carbide teeth).Next loosen the fence lock,loosen the two hex bolts on the rear pinion assembly so that the fence can move side to side.Move the fence up to the combo blade and adjust the fence and lock the fence lock.Check for blade and fence for true.Tighten the hex bolts at the rear pinion bearing assembly. Thank You for choosing FixYa.com.
If I read this right the fence is not square with the blade and if so on the backside of the tool you will find 2 hex head bolts that need loosened and the fence run up against the blade, push/pull fence until it is square front to back and snug up the bolts, run the fence away and try again. I always check a couple times, when sure it is square tighten bolts and this should take care of your problem. Let me know if you need more assistance and if I have helped you would you please vote accordingly. Thank you
you don't adjust anything but the fence if I understand the question correctly. You are using the fence for a straight cut and there is a gap, if so on the back of the saw UNPLUG SAW FIRST you will find a schematic about hhow to adjust the fence but all you have to do is loosen the 2 bolts where the arrows are I believe they are 10MM and lift the guard out of the way then gently run the fence next to the blade and "push" the fence square to the blade and tighten the bolts, usually it takes a couple times (I always recheck it). Now if the blade set at 0 degrees is not square you reset the angle from the front. Let me know if you need more help
This is the fundamental problem with rip fences on table saws. I don't know what kind of rip fence you have, but most rip fences are adjustable for squareness. However, unless you have a very nice (and expensive) rip fence, they often don't self-align when you move them anyway. If you have the type that clamps at the front and the back of the table, the problem can be overcome by making sure the rip fence is straight before you clamp it in place. The easiest way I have found to do that is to use an adjustable square. Put the front of the rip fence where you want it, then set the adjustable square so that it matches the distance from the miter slot in the table to the fence. Then move the square to the back of the table and move the back of the fence to meet the end of the square. Now clamp it in place and check the front and the back one more time. It's tedious to do this every time you adjust the fence, but you can get a perfectly aligned fence this way. This method assumes that your blade is parallel to your miter slots, which is adjustable too, but you have to get underneath the saw to do that.
On mine, the lever operates a long rod that runs through the fence. On the fence rear, there is an adjustment screw that sets the clamp tension. If you need any parts, go to: Searspartsdirect.com and enter the complete model number minus the decimal point. Hope this helps!
You should be able to adjust the fence but every model is different so I probably cannot tell you exactly how. My Biesemeyer fence has 2 set screws on front guide of the fence for parallel adjustment to the blade (this fence is a single piece fence). I had a Sears contractor saw that had 2 bolts on the top of the fence that needed to be loosened, the fence moved parallel, and the bolts tightened again (the Sears fence was a bolt together fence).Whatever fence you have I would think the adjustment would be on the front part of the fence. I would remove the fence (the fence only, not the guides) from your table saw and take a close look at it for any adjustment screws (the Biesemeyer set screws are somewhat hidden) . If the fence bolts together you will probably need to loosen the bolts to do the alignment. There is a quick check you can make to verify the problem is the fence not being parallel to the blade because your problem could also be caused by a bent saw blade arbor (the saw blade would wobble as it turns) øLock your fence down and measure from the front of the blade to the fence and from the back of the blade to the fence. These measurements should be within 1/32” (ideally is should be zero). øIf the fence passes the test above, you can see if your saw blade shaft is bent by sliding the fence very near the blade, locking the fence down, and rotation the blade by hand (unplug the saw first). If the blade rubs on the fence as it rotates then you could have a bent arbor, a bad arbor bearing, or a bent blade.
By splitter I take it you mean fence. If this is correct there could be a couple things that I would look for. UNPLUG saw and check the blade at 0 for being inline, make sure flanges are on correctly and finally what I would look at is the adjustable table bringing the fence toward the blade. Loosen lever and move it to the first slot where the guide would go align the front of fence and lock lever then check the back of the fence to make sure it is straight. If not you would have to adjust the back rail to align it. What I made to do this is 2 of the rails from the guide slide into the slot and on the back of the saw are 2 10MM bolts that need to be loosened and the rear slide moved one way or the other after loosening the lever push the fence tight to whatever you use as a guide and snug the bolts move the fence away and then bring back rechecking alignment sometimes you might have to try a couple times but it should work. Tighten the bolts and again recheck If not let me know and I will find a manual for you to download