I just bought a Husqvarna tiller. Went to go use it and a shear pin was missing. I figured it just got lost in the drive home. Got new ones today and they both broke just going forward.. without engaging the tines. My MIL borrowed it to till her garden.. we ran out of shear pins and she moved on to bolts that were the same size. Every 5-10 minutes she had to replace the bolts because the machine breaks them. It's breaking them without being under a work load. Any ideas??
I have the same tiller and the shear pins for the tines break even at the shallowest level. This is not a great design. The tines should be driven by a belt that would slip instead of replacing shear pins every 5 minutes.
If we are speaking about the shear pins on the tines, the ground is the problem and you need to begin your first pass on a more shallow setting and progress to a deeper setting gradually. if we are speaking about the shear pins on the tires w/o engaging the tines then these should not be breaking and I recommend that the tiller be examined by an authorized dealer.
SOURCE: 7 hp pony b & s ...bolts backed out on brg. cap at
I did not not resolve my problem, instead I went to bed! I will tear the whole thing down and provide results when I get them. Again thanks for the support. JM
SOURCE: Tiller goes For./Rev. but wont drive forward with tines engaged
check the sher bolt on the tine to drive shaft. ill need model and ser number off the unit before i can go further with helping you thy changed them around a lot
SOURCE: Yardman Rear Tine Tiller tines won't turn. Belt
The problem lies in the shift lever in the gearbox. A poor initial design that was upgraded twice. The shift fork arms have spread enough for pins to come out of the groove they run in when the tiller is shifted to the last position. (Bending back into position would only be a temporary fix as would not be any stronger.) To replace shift lever, the gearbox cover has to be opened. Seperating the cover can be somewhat challenging. When prying cover apart try to not damage the cover gasket. Gearbox grease is very thick, so gasket's real purpose is to keep water and contaminants out. Leave all gearing and chains in place. The shift lever part number is 618-0245B. Or use assembly kit number 753-0869 (contains shift lever 618-0245B, position indicator, and roll pin.) Part will run in the $56-$68 range and can be found through MTD as well as Cub Cadet. Also can get through Sears PartsDirect.
SOURCE: MTD Series 410 rear tine tiller. Tines won't engage.
As much as I hate to admit it, I have one in my shop I have been working on for a friend. Like ehertig_cwc shows in his picture of the shifter forks they can and do bend. The part i hate to admit is I have been unable to fix this one. Yeah, the shifter forks were bent and the pins worn to nothing. I repaired that and put it back together and I'm sure some of you how long that takes. It worked for about 20 minutes and I lost all shift detents. I have studied and studied that drive shaft shifter section and for the life of me I have been unable to determine what keeps the dang detent ball from rotating and getting into the shafts keyed section. As soon as it does, you loose or soon will loose shifting as the clutch just floats around in there. I have two MTD service manuals and neither on shows this drive shaft apart or how to assemble it. I think it is magic how it works. Other than this part I find the gearbox pretty easy to work on.
SOURCE: My husband has a new
Manual for the Husqvarna DRT900E tiller can be found here:
http://www.husqvarna.com/us/homeowner/support/download-manuals/?query=drt900e&types=O
The part that seems to be causing the problem is Part Number 532 12 47-88 Hairpin Clip.
It is odd that the clip is breaking and even odder that the clip only breaks on the one side; manual shows same hairpin clip also on the right side. You may have received a flawed pin the first time which one would have thought Husqvarna would have readilly replaced.
The replacement hairpins from Lowe's may not be correct specifications and are likely only made of spring wire. Suggest you take the pin from the right side to a tool or machine parts supply shop and find a hairpin clip made from 300 series stainless steel which will be stronger.
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