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Posted on Jun 14, 2012
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Rear brakes and rotors on my 2009 harley davidson ultra classic triglide are failing for the 2nd time after being replace 10,000 miles ago

Rear brakes and rotors are starting to fail after being replaced 10,000 miles ago

1 Answer

Brett Drew

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  • Harley Davidson Master 449 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 15, 2012
Brett Drew
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Joined: Oct 23, 2009
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10,000 miles is about the life expectancy on the rear pads. By failing, do you mean the rotor is warping?

3 Related Answers

james stark

  • 17 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 16, 2011

SOURCE: no problem I need torque

caliper torque 28-38 ft lbs,front axle nut torque60-65 ft lbs. front brake rotor torque 16-24 ft lbs. straight from harley manuel.

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Anonymous

  • 69 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 21, 2009

SOURCE: How do I change the front and rear brakes on a

Not too hard - Undo the two bolts on the caliper and then seperate the caliper and pull the old ones out. Insert the new ones and put the bolts back in to hold the caliper back together and then install them back on the bike with the two retaining bolts. Use a bit of lock tight (Blue) on the threads. Warning do not let anyone apply pressure on the brakes while you have them off the bike or you will have a mess and/or a problem.

Anonymous

  • 63 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 11, 2010

SOURCE: I need instructions for replacing

Spray some brake cleaner into the existing pad/caliper area FIRST to wash any brake dust away.(being careful of painted surfaces) Take a thin "putty knife" and GENTLY pry the inboard and outboard brake pads away from the brake rotor/disc as far as they will go. Then with a 12pt 1/4" socket, remove the 2 pad retention pins from the caliper's face and let the pads fall out of the caliper's body, being careful to take notice of the pads themselves (they are slightly different) Slide the new pads up into the caliper body one at a time. This will require a little force as there is a spring inside the caliper body. Then you can re-insert the retention pins and snug them down firmly (do not over tighten) Double check your work, use a falshlight if necessary. Make SURE the pads are in place and you have adequate brake pedal "pressure". The bleeding of the caliper might be necessary. If you are wary of this procedure, please have qualifed persons do this critical work.

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2004 ultra classic torque spec's on front and rear axle nuts and front and rear rotors with front dual rotors

Tighten the rear axle nut to 60-65 ft.-lb. (81-88 N•m).
Front axle nut
FXST, FLSTC, FLSTF,
FXSTB and FXSTD 50-55ft/lbs - 68-75 NM
FLSTS and FXSTS 60-65ft/lbs- 81-88 NM
Brake disc bolts
Front wheel 16-24 ft/lbs- 22-32nm
Rear wheel 30-45 ft/lbs- 41-61nm
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2013 ultra classic torque spec's on Rotors front Axle's front and rear

Front axle nut torque 70-75ft lbs, rear axle cone nut first torque 15-20ft lbs, second torque 95-105 ft lbs, front disc torque 16-24 ft lbs, rear disc torque 30-45ft lbs.
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Rear brakes and rotors wear out quickly

Is this light scoring or heavy scoring. You may be riding in dirty or sandy conditions. You should also lift the bike and spin the wheel to see if the brakes are dragging. You do not mention the pads. Are they heavily worn ie thin or not?
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No rear brake light on 2009 Ultra. Where is the switch? Light works with the front brake but not rear.

The rear brake is activated by a electric/hydraulic switch located in line with the rear brake line. It is located behind the rear brake pedal, and faces forward. It is about 3 1/2" long and an inch in diameter, cylindrically shaped. That is probably what is the problem is. You can check the wires for corrosion and connection first.
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