Question about Kenmore 79012 / 79014 / 79019 Gas Kitchen Range
We have a stainless steel Kenmore gas range model 790 that has a problematic door handle - has fallen off 3 or 4 times, tried to secure it but seems screws are too short? (And door is so heavy, doesn't stay open unless opened completely, am always worried about it. On Thanksgiving, my daughter was home alone, trying to take turkey from oven and door handle fell off, heavy door nearly closed on her and outer glass shattered! Is there a recall on this door (have read a few reports of faulty handles and glass on this model but can't find the correct parts). Do you know the part number and schematic to replace and repair the door glass? Is there a solution to the faulty handle?
We have suffered the same problem for the past 3 yrs. We first had the door all fall apart and I screwed it back together thinking that someone missed tightening a screw. Then shortly after the 1 yr warranty was up it happened again. Sears would not help, first told me that there was a recall, then not. After 6 departments and 12 people later they sent me on to whirl pool the manufacturer who said "see sears".
Anyways since we are abandoned by Sears who we trusted (as parents did) we are on our own, here is how I solved it.
After several times of the screw popping out and chipping and stripping the treads in the handle; I too switched out the bottom handle with the top but now at 3yrs old both handles had the threads stripped and chipped and the oven door fell apart during Thanksgiving dinner with the mother law 2009.
The next step for me after another round with Sears with no results (except they said it was common problem) and a letters to Att. Gen. (keep the letters flowing as they are hearing) was to go to the hardware store. I was able to find (not at the main hardware stores, had to go to mom/pa old fashion hardware store) a packet of #10 Sheet metal screws (Stainless steel) 2 1/2" long and a flat washer. This worked. Cost $1.18. Note it does strip the factory threads, so if your present threads are not too bad you may not want do it. You need the washer because the 2 1/2" is slightly too long. 2 1/4" would be a better length but I could not find them.
I would think Sears would want to avoid the bad press by sending all of us $1.18 worth of hardware out. Sears offered to sell me new handles, but I was not about to give them any more of my $.
And I agree it is a very stupid design to have to small handle (where the most stress is) holding the door/glass together.
Note if glass breaks, do not mess around, buy the proper part to go back in.
Posted on Jan 21, 2010
The bottom drawer handle is exactly the same as the oven door handle .... you can just switch them for a temporary fix... i am going to the hardware store tomorrow to see if they have a 10-24 screw that is a little longer than the 1.88 inch original.
Posted on Jan 12, 2009
We have the exact same problem. This design is totally unacceptable! Thank you for the suggestion of switching the handles as a temp fix (they don't appear to be exactly the same, but we'll give it a try). Has anyone found a permanent solution? This wasn't a 'cheap' range....we expected better craftsmanship.
Posted on Mar 29, 2010
I followed georite's solution and just put this steaming pile of junk back together with some 2 1/2" #10 screws and a washer.
Now the only problem is that the metal along the bottom edge of the glass is bulged outwards, perhaps from the impact of slamming shut when the door-handle fell off. I don't know if any gas is going to leak out of this thing - I feel that I'm sitting on a time-bomb, and I'm not pleased in the slightest.
Posted on Sep 07, 2010
Georite got it right. I just purchased two 2 1/2 inch no. 10 stainless steel sheet metal screws and washers. I replaced the original screw, which is really just a blunt end 2 1/4 sheet metal screw, on the bad side and kept the original on the other side. It worked like a charm. The first few threads on the bad side were stripped, and the extra length was the answer. Thanks Georite. Took me two minutes and $1.06 to fix it. Terrible design flaw and shame on Sears, who I really believe will be history within two years. Mark it down.
Posted on Jun 27, 2015
Be careful when tightening the oven's door handle. Even slightly over tightening would likely result in the glass shuttering (which is what happened to me), because tightening the screws pulls the handle and presses it against the glass. This is not a good design in my opinion. I'd rather give up on a couple inches in the width of the glass, than be unable to adequately tighten the screws fastening the handle and risk shattering the glass.
Posted on Aug 27, 2013
I am having the same issue. I have to keep tightening the screws, which seem to come loose very easily. We bought all of our appliances from Sears when we moved into our house 9 years ago. We have had to have some kind of repair done on 4 out of the 5 appliances and it's not like I am abusing them. All of the repairs, of course, have needed to be done right after the warranty is up. We have done all of them except one. I will never buy appliances from Sears ever again. They charge too much to come fix them and are not very helpful.....so much for good customer service.
Posted on Jan 14, 2013
I've had the same problem, too. My started 2 weeks out of warranty. Sears' main concern was why I hadn't purchased an extended warranty... I replaced the screws with sheet metal screws as suggested in this post - it lasted about a year or so. I then switched top and bottom handles. I'm on my 4th repair. I used to be a faithful sears customer - appliances, yard equipment, tools, clothing, tires, flat screen tvs, etc. etc. Since this I have purchased absolutely NOTHING! Furthermore, I will continue to bad mouth Sears any chance I get. There products are not the products that my parents depended on... Solution to this problem, btw, is to spend your money where you'll get good service
Posted on Aug 19, 2012
In my observation the handle comes loose because the door cap (part 316411500 A D) is broken or missing a tongue that fits over the door. The screw works loose because one side of cap pulls away from the door instead of being held by the overlapping tongue. The cap I think costs around 50 bucks, but I may also switch the handles top/bottom since the threads may be a little worn when I purchase the cap.
Posted on May 05, 2010
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