Buying a bicycle with a cracked frame,is like buying a car with a cracked engine block!!BAD NEWS,,don't buy it.Some typed of alu,and steel can have tubes replaced,but for the trouble it causes,I would not.
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Re: Repair Cannondale frame
No dont waste our money im sorry if it would have a dent or chip ok but that finish sorry about that i bought a cannondale caad7 on ebay with a little dent run great be carefull normally if it would be fixable the guy wuld have done it thanks pierre
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There should be no cracking in the frame if the bike has not been dropped or crashed at some stage which has then resulted in the cracking appearing.
If the bike has not been abused and the warranty is still current and not expired then you can make a warranty claim if you have the proof of purchase .
Read the warranty terms and conditions first which should have come with the bike documents. If not available, the warranty detail is probably published on the manufacturer's web site.
The better bike manufacturers using very good quality frames normally offer a long warranty on the frame. That is not the case for all the cheapie bikes which most people tend to buy.
You'll need to take it to a welding shop to have it properly repaired. Look at how much a similar "used" aluminum bike frame cost, then use that as a gauge to set a cost limit. Say for example a similar used bike frame cost $100 from a bike shop. If the welder charges $80 or more, then you might as well spend the extra $20 and replace the cracked bike frame instead of getting it welded. Of course, you'll need to take the parts off the cracked bike frame and transfer them to the used bike frame, assuming you know how to do it yourself. If you need to pay a bike shop to do the job, then having the welder repair the crack is cheaper.
I recently acquired an old '84 Cannondale road bike (before they had model numbers) that had all original Suntour 2x6 with downtube shifters on it. Now it's a full Campi-Ergo-equipped 2x9 with FSA compact carbon crank, aero-bar mountain climbing road rocket.
Getting Riser Bars or simply flipping the stem over or getting one with a different rise and reach might give you the added height you need. If you LIKE the handlebars, the stem is the best option as most new ones come with front loaders (detachable front caps) that allow replacement without stripping components off one side of the handlebar. In minutes a Bicycle Shop could swap any number of them onto your bike for you to try.
Both of the above recommended bicycles are considered touring bikes or hybrids. They are very comfortable and easy to use.
Whatever you decide on, make sure you get something with trigger shifting, it really makes a difference for ease of operation and unlike twist shifting, which you accidently knock your bike out of gear when you hit a small bump.
Also, make sure you get fitted for a bike at a bike shop. It makes a world of difference to have your bike properly fitted for your frame. A good bike shop will offer to fit you, then suggest you come back in a couple of weeks for adjustments and to tighten the brake cables.
This is really important, make sure you have a proper fitting helmet. My helmet saved my life. I can not tell you how important it is to have a helmet that fits properly and that each time you get on your bicycle you check the straps and make sure that your helmet is secure.
Of course it can be converted to anything you want - at a price and with some effort. I recently converted a vintage 1984 Cannondale road bike from 2x7 Suntour downtube to full Campi 2x9, carbon crank, yada yada. I like riding it as much as any of the other 3 road bikes I have.
I sourced most of the parts for my various bike projects on eBay. If you're looking for vintage or retro, that's where you go. Just avoid buying cassettes that have been 'slightly' used.
Assuming your bike is still an original 7- or 8-speed, and you want to keep it that way, you may have to hunt around for compatible shifters. Upgrading from 7- or 8-speed to 9 may be the way to go, but then you'd have to get a new cassette (minimum) or a new wheel, or it may not fit into your frame's rear dropouts as the axle spacing crept up over the years with the addition of cogs.
Consider all the individual steps conversion may require; and if each requires yet another modification or encounters a dead end, like frame spacing. At retail prices for parts these days it might be more economical to get a new bike. OTOH, there's no matching the satisfaction of keeping a favorite steed active and doing the work yourself.