The most likely cause is your thermocouple. Make sure it is in the flame when it is lit. Make sure it is clean. (if not a little piece of fine steel wool will clean it). If that does not do it change your thermocouple.
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Does the furnace fire then go out? If it fires then goes out its most likely the the flame sensor. This will be a steel rod that is in the path of the flame when it fires usually opposite end of ignitor. Take this off and clean it with steel wool or very fine sand paper. Make sure to pick the right part, the part that glows red is your hot surface ignitor and should never be touched as the grease on our fingers will react with the silicade nitrade and cause failure.
If the red button has to be held down for a period of time to get the heater going it overrides the shutoff mechanism. If you are holding it the prescibed amount of time then either the hydraulic system which keeps your unit running is bad or out of place or the metering valve is bad. Check for a copper line with a bulb on the end. It should probably be in the fire created by the heater, if not bend it to be in the heat or very close. If this is ok then you may need to get a new burner for the unit which would probably mean buying an entire new unit as the cost would probably exceed the cost of a new unit. Let me know how you make out.
yes its ok, just make sure the air pressure pump is dialed in right. With the right air pressure the heater will perform at its best and burn as clean as it can. Its the slotted set screw (plastic usually) on the back next to the air filter. Turn it in 1/4 turn at a time till the nose cone is almost all red or orange in color. This will give you the cleanest burn. Then adjust doors/windows for fresh air as needed. Hope this helps
If the burner comes on and then after a while the burner turns off for a short time, minute or less then starts again, you might have a problem with your fan motor or a very dirty air filter. I could be going off on high limit and then resetting and working that squence of operation. Also if your unit has been worked on recently, a larger then needed nozzel could have been installed and the unit fan can not cool the heat exchanger quick enough.
OHH I bet this is the same question I just posted to. So it is a forced air kerosene. The usual is like I said a blocked combustion air hole. It could also be something shorting out the spark ignition to ground when replaces inspect the wires and look for a week or loose ground in this case. Sorry about the confusion.
A Bad ignition proving circuit or something like (what we call here dirt dobbers) hornets nest could be letting the flame hit it and not allowing full flow through the heater. Mice are also notorious for making problems like wires chewed and nests in the wrong place. Given where it may have been stored.
Typical kero heater uses either a spark ignition or a hot surface. The hot surface igniter is very fragile. A small bump may break the elements. Flame is detected by a photocell, signal is sent to the lockout relay board. Change the igniter costs about 50 bucks.