Recently my Kenmore dryer stopped heating. I checked a few sites and tested the thermistat and it was bad. I picked up the thermostat assembly from Sears and replaced both thermostat pieces. It dried for 2 loads and won't heat again. I checked and the termostat is bad again. What would cause this?
a 6ya Repairman can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Repairman (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
You may have to get a new heating element when they go out the jet dryer where the heat comes out will not work normally this is caused buy a bad heat element. If not take back panel off and check the little white fuse and replace it, Almost all dryers are the same in that area.. Hope that helps....
you have to open the back off dryer,the r two thermostats. they are round held by 2 small screws. high heat- low heat. use volt meter to see which one is bad. if u put volt meter on wires,it will let you know which is bad. 30 to 35 a pc.
The cycling thermostat must also be replaced when replacing the thermal fuse. The cycling thermostat's failure to cycle off the heating element results in overheating of the dryer which consequently blows the thermal fuse open.
Replacing only the thermal fuse should the dryer stops running and
fails to start will result in its premature blowing or even the thermal
cut-out (cut-off) located on the heater duct. Like the cycling thermostat, the high-limit thermostat must also be replaced once the thermal cut-out blows open. Refer to the parts diagram in the link below and look for item numbers 31(thermal cut-off), 34(hi-limit thermostat), 39(thermal fuse), and 41(cycling thermostat.
If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heatingthe most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glowssometimes it is still not working properly.
if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip....
If you have an electric dryer, you can have many differentthings that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat.
check outthis electric no heat tip...
Has any one checked the exhaust vent,other than a bad thermostat the number one cause for the thermal fuse to open is a clogged or restricted exhaust vent flow, the entire vent system needs to be checked ( not just the hose from the unit to the wall) for proper air flow. Turn the unit on TIMED ,AIR DRY (NO HEAT) and go outside to the exhaust vent and check the air flow,if there is any question as to weather the air flow is sufishent get someone out to clean the exhaust vent ,it always a good idea to clean out every few years regardless to help prevent build up of lint witch could cause a fire......Hope this Helps Good Luck
It could be a few different things, but more than likely the thermal fuse inside has popped and needs replaced. Note that it also can be a thermostat, the heating element, or something else. Check your breaker (double 30 Amp) by turning it off and back on and try the dryer again. If you have the screw in fuses still (30 amp slo-blow), one may have given out. You will need a multi-meter to test the components.
Hi, The element has broke and shorted out against the metal on the dryer. You will need to replace the element. If this is a rear access panel dryer, here is how to get to the ele
UNPLUG the dryer! Remove the rear panel of the dryer and locate the element on the right hand side. Plug the dryer back in and test to see if there is 240V going to the element posts. If there is voltage, but no heat, change the element. If it does not, you need to test the thermostats for continuity. If any of the thermostats are open, replace it. I hope this helps you.
Please let me know if this help or if I can assist you further.
Kenmore style dryer - no heat problems: Electric dryers - See the "how to take apart" section first if needed. Always check the power supply first...if one house fuse blows or 1/2 of the breaker trips, it is possible for the dryer to run with no heat. If you have a volt meter, you should read 240 volts between the red and black wires, 120 volts between the white and black and 120 volts between white and red, check for this at the main power connection. If you have 240 volts to the dryer, remove rear access panel, turn dryer on and test for 240 volts to the *heating element wire connections (#4). If you have 240 volts there and no heat = bad element, the element must be broken physically to be bad. If you have no power at the heating element, remove power, remove wires to the heating element and isolate them so that they can't touch anything. Reinstall power and check each wire for power from the wire to the dryer cabinet, one wire will probably show 120 volts and the other will show zero. Make note of the color or # of the wire that has no power, remove power to the dryer and check the wiring diagram that comes with the dryer to find out where that color or # wire goes to. EG: - wires might be yellow and red, if the yellow wire (example only) was the one that had no power, look at the wiring diagram to find out where that goes to and check only those parts, no need to check the other colored wire parts as they are working. Things to check are, *thermostats, timer contacts, selector switch, motor switch heat contacts ( 1&2 on the motor switch ) and *thermal fuse. If the wires to the heating element are the same color, just remove power after test and slowly follow that wire that has no power with your hand to see what parts it goes to. If live volt testing scares you, try the ohm checkinstead. *#1-Thermal fuse that controls heat. If the dryer overheats, this fuse will blow. One shot fuse. Does not reset. #2-Canister for the heater element. #3-Hi limit thermostat. This thermostat is a safety thermostat in case the dryer severely overheats. When this safety thermostat is defective, it should raise a red flag for air flow problems. #4-This is the terminals of the heater element that is inside the canister. #5-Thermal fuse that controls motor run. #6-Control thermostat. This is the thermostat that controls the cycling of the heater in high heat mode. #7-Heater for low heat. When you select low heat, 110V is sent to this heater that the control thermostat sits in. The heater helps cycle the control thermostat faster, therefore you get less heat than the high heat mode.Things that could stop a electric dryer from heating: - house fuse or breaker ( needs two of them ), heating element, burnt wire, thermostat(s), thermal fuse ( not all models ), motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, burnt power cord/plug. A ohm meter test for these parts is here.