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Re: Why do they put the scuba tank in water while...
A scuba tank is design to hold a certain volume of air, at a particular at a particular temperature. In the US, the standard tank is an aluminum 80 CF tank. At room temperature and 3,000 psi, the tank holds 72 CF of air (yeah, I know they round up calling it 80 CF tank).
When you are filling the tank, the air and tank will become warm/hot. If you check the pressure guage while the tank is warm, it will give you a reading of X. Once the tank cools, it will give you a reading that is less than X. They put the tanks in the water in the hopes of keeping the temperature do, and filling the tanks closer to the design pressure and temperature.
Some examples that you can see...
In Mexico, many of the tanks will be sitting in the sun while on the boat. The tank may have a reading of 3,200 psi. Once you jump in the water, and the tank cools down, the new reading may be 2,800 psi without ever breathing any of the air.
I have been ice diving, the tank was acutally colder than the water. Since the water temperature was warmer than the tank, me pressure reading was slightly higher.
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Brass-style toilet refill valves can often be repaired. To take a valve apart, remove the lever's screws. This allows you to lift out the float arm and valve plunger. Check the flat rubber washer on the end of the plunger. If it's worn, you can pull it out with pliers and either turn it around or replace it. This procedure usually corrects an overfilling problem. Next, reassemble the valve. If the tank continues to overfill, check to make sure the operating lever at the end of the float arm is functioning properly.
New refill valve. To replace the entire refill valve assembly, first turn off the water supply. The tank should then be flushed and sponged out, as detailed previously. Remove the inlet nut and riser tube from the bottom of the refill valve beneath the tank. Hold the refill valve inside the tank with a padded locking plier/wrench to keep it from turning, and remove the nut beneath the tank. With the nut off, the refill valve assembly can be lifted out and a new one inserted in its place. Follow the exact instructions included with the unit you purchase.
Finally, reconnect the riser tube and turn the water on. The tank should fill, allowing you to adjust the water level according to the instructions that were included with the valve.
Anti-siphon valves. The best refill valves offer anti-siphon protection. In fact, this may be a requirement. This protection prevents back siphonage of toilet tank water into your home's potable water supply system if a vacuum occurs in the toilet's water supply system. Whether or not this is a code requirement, the anti-siphon valve is a good idea to protect your family and public health.
Have you flushed your radiator and refilled with proper coolant/water mix? Is your water pump working? Is your radiator leaking? Do you find yourself having to add water all the time? Is your fan working? Bunch of questions I know but may help lead to problem.
My sister has a two year old Jacuzzi toilet that worked fine until a few months ago. Then it started to take 10 minutes to shut off after each flush. I lifted the tank cover and immediately saw the problem; at least 90% of the refill water was going into the refill pipe instead of the tank. Upon examination I discovered that the plastic part that holds the flexible refill tube to the vertical refill pipe was broken. This part not only holds the refill tube in place, it also has a small orifice at the end to restrict the flow into the pipe. The part was broken in such a way as to let nearly all the water go into the refill pipe instead of the tank, hence it would run for 10 minutes after the toilet bowl was full and waste all that water. I found a small coarse thread stainless steel screw that fit into the plastic attachment piece to help plug the orifice and cut down the amount of water going to the refill pipe. Now the toilet flushes and refills in less than 2 minutes. I'm in the process of trying to find a replacement for that part but so far no luck.
hiya:) This is a result of a very minor design error (i am a big fan of FluidMaster products) combined w/a slightly higher than normal water pressure situation or foreign matter stuck in the valve somewhere. try turning down the water pressure via the shuttoff under the toilet tank:)
The only thing I can think of is the reed switch on the back of the panel that checks the water level. If there is a float in the water tank check what level it is when it calls for refill, it might be in backwards, or the magnet has moved.
If the brine tank is not refilling with water this indicates there is a restriction in the brine refill assembly or the refill piston is bad. Depending on the model this restriction could be either in the top of the float assembly or in the brine refill itself. RJ
Most likely the washer came off and is stuck in the shut off valve or the float is stuck all the way up. Checkk adjustment screw in the top of the water control valve to make sure it is not turned all the way in.
It can be done, I have used refilling ink on HP printer before with only two cartridges, I just went by the diagram that came with refill package. However, it was a messy job and there are lots of shops that refill tri-colour cartridges now and I would definatley opt for that option.