I got a 10" sub with a total of four post on the back of it...two pos. and two neg. i took it in to get it a new box and the people moved the posts around..and i cant remember where they go...i noticed a wierd sound from it after i got it back. when i looked at the back i noticed the post were moved...i havent used it since...can you help me put them in the right place?
Thats not the correct way to bring a dual 4ohm speaker down to 2ohm bridged..
the correct way is to hook both negatives together, n then both positives together. run 1 wire from negatives to negative terminal on amp. run 1 wire from positives to positive terminal on amp. done
If it isnt this way try this, Take the + Lead from the amp to the + on the Sub, Cross from the - on the first side to the + on the other set of posts, then take the - from the second set of posts to the - one your amp. I assuem this is a Dual 4 Ohm and will bring that down to a 2ohm which induces more power from your amp and should be louder it could be 2X2
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Verify that all battery cables are wired correctly. Should be in series-- neg to pos , neg to pos etc. Then measure total voltage at the main positive and negative battery posts, should be close to 36 volts. If we are good there then measure the voltage at the small posts of the solenoid when the f/r switch is in either position, the key switch is on and the pedal is pressed. I would do this only if the rear wheels are off the ground. Lets say that you do measure 36 volts there, that would mean the solenoid is probably bad.
Now lets say you don't measure 36 volts. Normally there is a small red wire connected to the main positive battery wire at the charger receptacle, it feeds the key switch, key switch comes back and feeds the micro switch on the back of the f/r switch, then to the positive side of solenoid. So connect black voltmeter lead to main negative and with the red lead measure voltage at solenoid. If no voltage keep working back until you find the trouble.
Assuming you have good voltage on positive side, now we check negative side. You probably have a fan shaped black plastic object mounted on the frame under the seat. It's named V-Glide. When you step on accelerator pedal a micro switch in the v-glide closes and provides negative to the solenoid. I hope this helps.
OK. Sometimes manufacturers put two flat prongs to each of the positives and negatives of the voice coils. This allows for daisy chaining multiple subs to be easier. Here is how you want to wire your subs in the box.
From the positive post of the box to the positive posts of both voice coils (just choose one prong on each of them, you do not have to connect all 4 of them). So you will have 2 wires going from one post on the box to 2 posts on the sub. Got it. Not go from the negative post on the box, to both negative posts on the subs. Repeat this with the other sub. Now you can hook each channel of the amp to the box regularly pos of amp to pos of box and neg of amp to neg of box.
This set up is called parallel and will drop the ohms resistance of two 4 ohm voice coils to a 2 ohm load. You will get 2 ohms for each sub, thus connecting one sub to each channel. This will allow you to get the max power out of the amp or 150w RMS per your post. Hope this helps.
Ok, for starters. Is your sub a dual 4 ohm sub? If so, great. Is your amp 2ohm stable? If so, then great. If you are running one sub, is your amp a monoblock (single channel) amp? Are you running a two channel amp Your subwoofer is a dual voice coil subwoofer. This means that you have to have power to both voicecoils or risk damaging the voice coils. Subs are designed with dual voice coils to give it more control over the cone movement. This results in better reproduction of sound. Anyway, back to wiring.
This is for a monoblock amp (you can also bridge a 2 channel amp) Go from the positive speaker out of your amp to the positive posts of both voice coils. Then go from the negative speaker out of the amp to both negative posts on the sub. And there you have it. It's called a parallel set up. Setting it up this way just dropped the ohms load for that sub to 2 ohms. Less resistance means more power to the sub. Hope this helps
if you have access to a digital multimeter, connect the meter (set to volts) across positive and neg. terminal of the battery, should read roughly 12.6 volts, close to 10 volts, battery may be going out, also test the alt output, disconnect neg term and place negative lead to battery neg post and positive lead to neg battery cable (make sure meter is set to amps) should read near the rating, if both those, then you'd want to do a resistance test, (set meter to Ohms) disconnect battery and connect meter neg to either pos cable terminal or where the pos cable connects to the alt and connect positive lead to opposite of neg, should read next to 0, the check resistance of the ground by connecting meter between batt neg cable and body of alt.
well if the amp is a mono block for sure you just choose any combination of 1 positive and 1 negative to wire your subs. They are actually summed inside the amp. meaning both positives go to the same terminal inside and both negatives to the same negative on the inside. It's just that way for ease of wiring in high wattage and multi sub systems
take the positive on the sub and run a wire to the other positive the run a negative to the other negative then to your pos and neg on the box do the same on the other side then tie your two positives and two neg together and you got 1ohm and that amp willl handle it all day
if its cutting off and right back on then check your ground and your power wire makes sure both are connected good and none of your fuse's are blown, either that or you got a wire hooked up backwards in the sub.. but my guess is that the sub is hooked up wrong... that sub should be hooked up in a series or in parallel,
ok if your running just one speaker, it should be hooked up like this and 2 speakers are a different way...
this is parallel :pos to pos , neg to neg, then one wire coming from pos on sub to pos on amp then neg on sub to neg on amp but bridge the amp on your amp should be 2 pos and 2 neg in two different channels take the pos off the sub into the pos on 1 channel and then the neg from sub to the neg on the other channel,
this is series : on the sub it will go pos to neg then the other neg and pos will go to the amp, but make sure the pos and neg r on different sides of the sub, dont hook them both to the same coil
if your need more help give me your email and ill send you a pic of how to do it...
The Kenwood KAC would be 2 ohm stable.
I ran my sub's in parallel and the amp did not shut off and hit pretty well for long periods of time.
If you are running two dual voice coils.
Bridge amp, run pos and neg to pos and neg outside of box.
neg and pos to one side of sub
The other side of the sub run to the next sub
the other side of the sub to the inside of the box pos and neg.
pos and neg outside of box to the other outside terminals to create a complete loop.
If this isn't a good description post back and I'll email you a picture of it.