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Re: Scuba Tank Setup Question
The octopus should already be hooked up to the regulator
should look like this
and then you just put the threading into the bottle threading and it should look like this when its done
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I would check the o-ring on your tank, there is not really a way for air to get past the main regulator seal and leak unless you have a bad o-ring even a a small nick in it can cause air to leak past. Hope that helps
It may be that you have picked up a little bit of sand or grit, give it a good vigorous wash in the bath. Often octo's get dragged along the bottom and get rubbish in them. If it does need adjusting I strongly recommend you get a professional to do it. :)
Hello, there are a few things that may have happened. Often octos pick up sand and grit when they get dragged on the bottom. Try a good vigorous shake in fresh water. After that your moving into badly seated diaphram, split diaphram or slight hole, badly adjusted spring etc etc etc. Would recommend that perhaps you get it serviced. Especially important if you have been using Nitrox. Hope that helps
Denx7d could have not said it any better i have about 1300 dives on my gear and still in good shape and have annual service on my gear now i am a certified repair technician for scuba pro these regulators they sell are the best on the market hands down
An octo IS a regulator. There are two types or regulators on a typical scuba rig. Your first stage reg that is attached to your tank valve. From this first stage, there are hoses leading to your primary breathing second stage reg and your Octo second stage. The job of the first stage is to bring that possibly 3,000 psi air in the tank, down to a more reasonable pressure of about 150 psi. From there, the air goes to the second stages and can be reduced down further by these second stage, on demand (meaning it delivers air when you inhale and stops when you finnish inhaling), regs.
The Octo is a second stage back up for a buddy that is out of air or if your own primary second stage ( the one you normally breathe from) is no longer functioning. Octos are generally ( not always) a cheaper reg, that may not have all the bells and whistles that a primary air source does. It's there for an emergency, so ease of breathing under load and tuning adjustments are minor. It gives you air when you're in a pinch, thats the important thing.
The scuba regulator is employed in an open-circuit scuba set. Said scuba equipment reduces high air pressure conveyed by the diving cylinder to the first stage and feeds breathable gas to the diver through the second stage's mouthpiece. Also called pressure regulator or demand regulator, the scuba equipment is one of the essentials to diving that determines breathing quality and inhalation effort during the dive. But given the different types of regulators and the pertinent design of its first and second stage components, how should a neophyte diver - or even a seasoned diver at that, choose a scuba regulator that incorporates user adjustment and delivers a venturi-assisted air flow in its features? Consider your diving purpose and frequency. Better yet, take note of the following criteria to guide you in your purchase:
1. The Scuba Regulator's Mouthpiece. Check the specifications if the regulator is outfitted with a patented orthodontic mouthpiece. This implies that it is ergonomically-designed to accommodate an overbite or underbite by the human mouth. An ergonomic mouthpiece helps reduce fatigue in the mouth and jaw area, particularly in the cruise of lower depths and extended dives.
2. User Adjustment Settings. There are optimally-designed scuba regulators that are outfitted with adjustment levers to therefore allow divers to finetune valve settings in order to provide the least possible inhalation effort throughout the dive. One notable scuba equipment is the Aeris AT 400 Pro Regulator that is equipped with an adjustable second stage.
3. Weight of the Scuba Regulator. Visualize yourself on a dive and using just any other type of scuba regulator. Is the regulator bulky to considerably increase drag and cause jaw fatigue or is it buoyant enough for you to carry around with your mouth? Lightweight scuba regulators use polycarbonate thermoplastics for its housing to make the scuba equipment compact, sturdy and corrosion-resistant that makes them fit for extended use.
4. Nitrox Compatibility. This entails an ocular inspection of the cylinder tank (Nitrogen and Oxygen proportions) and scuba regulator (Nitrox compatibility) specifications. As a matter of convention, most regulators are suited for nitrox mixture use out of the box; containing the standard, maximum proportion of 40% Oxygen (in terms of volume) but then again, there are gas mixes supporting leaner proportions of oxygen such as the trimix. Therefore, check if the scuba regulator supports the gas mixture configured for your diving cylinder prior to purchase.
5. No-Contaminant Feature. As much as possible, choose a diving regulator that has been manufactured using Dry Valve Technology (DVT). DVT operates through an automatic valve that prevents contamination of the first stage mechanism to thus prevent regulator flooding and the entry of moisture or dust particles. This likely improves scuba regulator performance and extends its useful life.
6. Air-Sharing Feature. This feature often associated with octopus regulators (used as a spare demand valve or alternate second stage) will prove to be most helpful during diving emergencies such as a free flow or during diver rescues. High performance octopus regulators such as the Aeris Gyro Octopus Regulator are designed lightweight and with air-sharing feature, while sporting an inline swivel for convenience mounting and flexibility
"The scuba tank is one of the most important pieces of dive equipment. It must be looked after. A well-maintained tank could give 20 or 30 years service. A neglected tank can fail with the force of a hand grenade. It pays to care for a scuba tank, not only for economy, but also for safety and diving enjoyment.
The following ten tips can help ensure a scuba diving tank will provide many years of faithful diving service.
1) Never completely empty a scuba tank. Always leave at least 1000 kPa to ensure moisture doesn’t enter.
2) Always rinse the scuba tank and valve in fresh water after use.
3) If the scuba tank is to be stored for a few months, drain the air down to around 1000 kPa. This is to decrease the amount of oxygen that can cause corrosion.
4) A scuba tank should be stored standing up out of direct sunlight.
5) A scuba tank should be carried with care and attention. They shouldn’t be carried on the shoulder as a fall can lead to the valve getting smashed off and the tank taking off like a rocket.
6) A scuba tank should be regularly tested in accordance with statutory regulations.
7) A scuba tank should not be left in a closed car in the heat of the day. It can heat up and explode or the burst disk can rupture; both scenarios leading to damage to the car. When in the car the tank should be carried with the valve towards the back. If the car brakes suddenly the tank valve won’t be damaged as the tank moves forward with its momentum.
8) The scuba tank valve should not be turned off too tightly. It only has to be just nipped closed enough to stop the air flow.
9) A scuba tank should be filled with clean, dry air. Any discolouration around the air outlet or bad odour should be treated with suspicion. If there are any doubts that a tank has been filled with bad air, it should not be used for scuba diving and should be checked immediately. A bad fill can lead to damage to the tank, as well as pose a threat to a diver.
10) If painting a tank, ensure no heat curing paints or strippers are used as these could affect the strength of the tank."
The scuba regulator has two parts: a 1st stage and a second stage connected by a hose. The 1st stage connects right to the tank; the 2nd stage is the contraption behind your mouthpiece. Both have an important function in regulating air flow throughout your scuba system.