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Re: scuba tank maintenance
"The scuba tank is one of the most important pieces of dive equipment. It must be looked after. A well-maintained tank could give 20 or 30 years service. A neglected tank can fail with the force of a hand grenade. It pays to care for a scuba tank, not only for economy, but also for safety and diving enjoyment.
The following ten tips can help ensure a scuba diving tank will provide many years of faithful diving service.
1) Never completely empty a scuba tank. Always leave at least 1000 kPa to ensure moisture doesn’t enter.
2) Always rinse the scuba tank and valve in fresh water after use.
3) If the scuba tank is to be stored for a few months, drain the air down to around 1000 kPa. This is to decrease the amount of oxygen that can cause corrosion.
4) A scuba tank should be stored standing up out of direct sunlight.
5) A scuba tank should be carried with care and attention. They shouldn’t be carried on the shoulder as a fall can lead to the valve getting smashed off and the tank taking off like a rocket.
6) A scuba tank should be regularly tested in accordance with statutory regulations.
7) A scuba tank should not be left in a closed car in the heat of the day. It can heat up and explode or the burst disk can rupture; both scenarios leading to damage to the car. When in the car the tank should be carried with the valve towards the back. If the car brakes suddenly the tank valve won’t be damaged as the tank moves forward with its momentum.
8) The scuba tank valve should not be turned off too tightly. It only has to be just nipped closed enough to stop the air flow.
9) A scuba tank should be filled with clean, dry air. Any discolouration around the air outlet or bad odour should be treated with suspicion. If there are any doubts that a tank has been filled with bad air, it should not be used for scuba diving and should be checked immediately. A bad fill can lead to damage to the tank, as well as pose a threat to a diver.
10) If painting a tank, ensure no heat curing paints or strippers are used as these could affect the strength of the tank."
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I have the same problem! I'm still trying to figure it out. I read on line that it might be the "small spring" that is not normally replaced during maintenance; also read that it might be the HP valve seat.
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IF the used reg works, at $40 you're likely money ahead. Has the used DualAir you have in mind been looked after lately?
Remember, life support equipment should be WELL maintained and serviced annually by an authorized repair person. What's your live or the life of you buddy worth? Servicing your Air2 would be in the neighborhood of $50, depending on how rotten how many of your corroded parts are. Last I knew, if you buy a Scubapro reg and have it serviced *annually*, as is prudent, the parts are free.
The most common problem is the FAILURE of owners to get regulators professionally serviced, annually, to maintain proper function.
If not maintained regs may either become hard to breath from, the deeper you go the harder it gets, or they can freeflow, potentially dumping all your air in a matter of a minute or less, again the deeper you are the worse the problem, or, they could just stop working entirely, which is the least likely.
When your are "down there" air is so important, Eh? Diving and "cheapskate" don't do well as a combination.
did you check your bulletins from scuba pro ? depending on the actual year of mfg ( you can call scuba pro and give them serial number )
there was a retro fit kit made for the mk 25 first stage of you send me your email i will send the bulletin to you
other wise if you wew working from an earlier service guuide then you would notbe aware of the retro fit kits and pistons some of the earlier schematic will not show you that o ring that you were refering to
"There is only one bit of advice you need when you own your own tanks: bring them to a professional for filling and regular inspection.
Tanks are required to be visually inspected once a year, which involves removing the valve and looking inside for signs of corrosion or damage. If the tank is deemed safe, an Evidence of Inspection (EOI) sticker is applied to the tank showing the date of inspection.
A hydrostatic test is required every 5 years, which determines the tank's ability to contain pressurized gas. A certified hydro test facility will stamp the shoulder of the tank below the valve with the date of pass.
This inspection makes it easy for you to know if your rented tank has been properly maintained and inspected. If the hydro test stamp is more than 5 years old or the EOI sticker is more than a year old, don't accept the tank.
Corrosion is the major culprit in tank degradation. Scuba tanks are filled with very dry air, to prevent moisture from rusting the interior of the tank. That is why certified divers learn never to leave a tank empty. Always leave at least 100psi of pressure in the tank at the end of your dive, so no moisture can get in when valves are opened."
" 1. Use a defogging solution before every dive, even when diving more than once in the same day. This will prevent your scuba mask from fogging during a dive. You can purchase a commercially prepared defogging solution from any reputable scuba diving retailer. Squeeze a drop or two onto the inside lens of your mask and gently rub the solution around to cover the inside completely. Dip your mask briefly into water, swirl the water around the inside of your mask very quickly and empty the water from your mask. A quick rinse will remove any excess defogging solution from the inside of your mask. You do not want to get defogging solution in your eyes, especially while diving, since it can cause stinging and irritation. If you don't want to use a commercially prepared defogging solution you have a defogging solution readily available and it's free, your saliva. Your saliva will prevent your scuba mask from fogging just as well as any commercial defogging solution. The enzymes in your saliva stick to the lens of your mask like a commercial defogging solution and you will never find yourself without a defogger while on a dive.
2. Never lay your scuba mask face-down on any surface. Salt, sand and grit will scratch the lens of your mask. Always place your mask face up when you are not wearing it or if it is not in its hard case.
3. Rinse your scuba mask in clean, freshwater after each dive and dry it thoroughly before storing it in its hard case. After a dive, your mask will be covered in a salty residue and/or dirt. This must be rinsed clean to prevent the silicone on your mask from degrading. Your mask must be completely dry before storing it to ensure the silicone stays clean and odor-free.
4. Always store your scuba mask in its hard case. If your mask did not come with a hard case purchase an after-market hard case. This will protect your mask from dirt and abrasives and protect it while traveling. Always store the case out of direct sunlight. Direct sunlight will break down the silicone after years of exposure.
5. Periodically repeat the toothpaste treatment to keep the lens of your scuba mask clean. A good rinse after each dive helps to keep your mask clean, but to ensure there is no residue or grit left on your scuba mask you must properly clean it on a regular basis."
The scuba regulator has two parts: a 1st stage and a second stage connected by a hose. The 1st stage connects right to the tank; the 2nd stage is the contraption behind your mouthpiece. Both have an important function in regulating air flow throughout your scuba system.
" 1. Rinse your booties in clean, freshwater after each dive and allow them to dry thoroughly before storing. After a div, your booties will be covered in a salty residue and/or dirt. This must be rinsed clean to prevent the neoprene from degrading. Your scuba booties must be completely dry before storing to ensure the neoprene stays clean, odor-free and free of mildew or mold.
2. Scuba bootie zippers should be lubricated occasionally to prevent degradation of the metal or plastic.
3. Always store your scuba booties out of direct sunlight. Direct sunlight will break down the neoprene after years of exposure.
4. Periodically machine or hand-wash your scuba booties. A good rinse after each dive helps to keep your booties clean, but to ensure there is no residue or grit left on your booties you must properly clean them on a regular basis. You can purchase a commercially prepared neoprene shampoo, zipper lubricant/desalter and a neoprene sealant to thoroughly clean and seal your scuba booties. A commercial shampoo and sealant are specifically manufactured to care for your neoprene and is the recommended method for proper maintenance.
5. Any holes in the neoprene on your scuba booties can be fixed using a commercial wet suit cement.