a 6ya Repairman can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Repairman (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
I would check the breaker before you go any further. Here are some things to remember when you do this. 1) The breaker for the dryer is generally located outside on the side of the house somewhere near the electric meter. Most 220vac breakers are, which include any electric range, cooktop, wall oven, etc. 2) When your checking the breaker, actually physically touch it. Sometimes breakers can trip a but the spring that actually pulls the breaker to off position is weak and by visual inspection would appear on. Just simply reach in and tap the bar lightly in the off direction. If it pops over to the off position, turn it back on then go check your dryer. If the breaker passes inspection, I would unplug the machine because there migfht be a short at the terminal block where the plug connects to the dryer. After you've unplugged it, remove the back and check to see if everything is ok. I have a strong feeling that you won't need to get to this point cause I'm betting on breaker.
when you removed the screen from the inside you disconnected the wires from the 2 metal strips. now you need to remove the lower panel on the front. and reconnect them. you will need a T-20 torx and unplug the dryer to be safe. the wire will have 90 degree push on connectors and it does not have any polarity concerns. the two male connectors are real close to the top of the panel, maybe even slightly under the other panel. By the upper right of the silver fan duct.
Check your lint filter first, and then try to restart it. Also, make sure the door is completely shut. If this doesn't do it, check your condensation hose for blockage. These dryers are very sensitive to lint build up, so make sure to change your lint trap after each load. It's not only a good practice, but it's necessary with this machine
You stated you checked all lints roblems. Just to make sure. Did you remove the lint catcher completely on the inside? If not take that off and clead the lint out of the inside of the duct. Also lint can build up inside the lint duct on the rear of the drier and in the duct going outside of your home.
If "won't run" meaning; "does not tumble/spin" this can be a couple things;
1. Defective Drive Belt (Likely): Broken or jammed (not properly attached to motor/pulley). Nothing will happen when pressing start; unit will not heat or rotate/tumble. "Normal ware and tear"
2. Defective Door Switch (Very likely) - Very common due to constant "slamming" of door. The door switch enables power to be passed through-out machine when door closes for safety purposes. Switch located at door area and can be tested for continuity. "Nothing will happen when pressing start; unit will not heat or tumble/turn". * Fairly easy to replace; two mounting screws.
3. Defective/Jammed Motor (Rare, but possible): You may hear a "humming noise" and burning smell. Also, excessive lint in blower housing may jam the motor from rotating. "Does not come on; does not tumble/turn"
Remember to disconnect power from unit before servicing.