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I would check the breaker before you go any further. Here are some things to remember when you do this. 1) The breaker for the dryer is generally located outside on the side of the house somewhere near the electric meter. Most 220vac breakers are, which include any electric range, cooktop, wall oven, etc. 2) When your checking the breaker, actually physically touch it. Sometimes breakers can trip a but the spring that actually pulls the breaker to off position is weak and by visual inspection would appear on. Just simply reach in and tap the bar lightly in the off direction. If it pops over to the off position, turn it back on then go check your dryer. If the breaker passes inspection, I would unplug the machine because there migfht be a short at the terminal block where the plug connects to the dryer. After you've unplugged it, remove the back and check to see if everything is ok. I have a strong feeling that you won't need to get to this point cause I'm betting on breaker.
when you removed the screen from the inside you disconnected the wires from the 2 metal strips. now you need to remove the lower panel on the front. and reconnect them. you will need a T-20 torx and unplug the dryer to be safe. the wire will have 90 degree push on connectors and it does not have any polarity concerns. the two male connectors are real close to the top of the panel, maybe even slightly under the other panel. By the upper right of the silver fan duct.
Check your lint filter first, and then try to restart it. Also, make sure the door is completely shut. If this doesn't do it, check your condensation hose for blockage. These dryers are very sensitive to lint build up, so make sure to change your lint trap after each load. It's not only a good practice, but it's necessary with this machine
You stated you checked all lints roblems. Just to make sure. Did you remove the lint catcher completely on the inside? If not take that off and clead the lint out of the inside of the duct. Also lint can build up inside the lint duct on the rear of the drier and in the duct going outside of your home.
HI. This may be an issue concerning the pressure switch that is located inside the rim of the actual door.
This switch activates the main drum motor when a cycle is selected when you are ready to dry your clothes. As soon as you select the desired cycle and you load the clothes and shut the door, the last thing to do is push the start switch. if the door pressure switch is malfunctioning, it will not allow you to start the dryer. it will simply not spin.
If you can visibly see the light inside the drum/basket while the door is closed, this will confirm the malfunctioning pressure switch that is located inside the inner part of the door rim.
Its located in this position so that the actual door can make contact with it, in return, applying pressure to close the switch and complete the circuit. this will cause the dryer to spin.
You stated that you can see the drum light shinning when the door is closed and, this will confirm my diagnosis. You can preform a hard reset just to make sure of this defect. Simply unplug this unit for 5 minutes or, shut down the circuit breaker for 5 minutes as well. Any methods will work. Once the 5 minutes are up, simply plug back in this unit and try to run a normal cycle. if this problem is still and issue, it will once again confirm a door pressure switchfailure and you will need to replace the switch in this unit.
I would check the wire clips and connectors as well located on this switch for lose or worn contacts. this can be a problem spot as well.
If "won't run" meaning; "does not tumble/spin" this can be a couple things;
1. Defective Drive Belt (Likely): Broken or jammed (not properly attached to motor/pulley). Nothing will happen when pressing start; unit will not heat or rotate/tumble. "Normal ware and tear"
2. Defective Door Switch (Very likely) - Very common due to constant "slamming" of door. The door switch enables power to be passed through-out machine when door closes for safety purposes. Switch located at door area and can be tested for continuity. "Nothing will happen when pressing start; unit will not heat or tumble/turn". * Fairly easy to replace; two mounting screws.
3. Defective/Jammed Motor (Rare, but possible): You may hear a "humming noise" and burning smell. Also, excessive lint in blower housing may jam the motor from rotating. "Does not come on; does not tumble/turn"
Remember to disconnect power from unit before servicing.