Goodman: My Power Venter (aka Heat and Draft Inducer) won't start
FURNACE: Made by: Goodman Model #: GMPN080-4
THE POWER VENTER (this is what the Goodman manual calls it but other websites refer to this as the Heat or Draft Inducer): Made by: FASCO Industries 70219565 Type: U218 Volts: 115 RPM3400 Customer Part #: B2833001S
I have been troubleshooting this all day and this is what I have learned:
The Thermostat is ok. The Indoor Blower (Main Blower) is ok. I can turn on just the fan from the thermostat and it turns on. Everything was working fine and then something happened. I have not moved any wires or made any changes.
Here are the sequence of events:
I turn on the heat from the thermostat. The Thermostat clicks telling the furnace to turn on the heat.
The furnace has a humming sound coming from it. This is the Power Venter/Heat Inducer trying to turn on. The indicator light blinks three times. The panel explains that this means:
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Re: Goodman: My Power Venter (aka Heat and Draft Inducer)...
The power ventor most likely needs to be replaced. But be advised. Goodman normally will not sell parts to anyone but a certified technician. I had to show my masters certificate to buy parts from their outlet. This is a part that has a high rate of failure.
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Make sure your air filter is clean. Is the thermostat satisfied? or is the room temp. still below the thermostat setting? When ever you have to turn the power off and then back on to a furnace that usually indicates that the furnaces ignition control locked out. The first thing that I would try is cleaning the flame rod.
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There should not be a pilot on a direct vent furnace. When you turn up the thermostat for heat the 1st thing to happen is a venter motor should start, it should vent for approximately 45 seconds, the air switch will verify a vacuum in the burner box, then a spark igniter should start clicking to start the pilot, then the flame rod will verify the pilot, the igniter will stop clicking, and the main burner will ignite and remain on until the thermostat has satisfied the set point. These guideline steps must be satisfied before the controller advances to the next step. The 1st step is the venter motor running, sometimes the motor will stick over the summer months, spin it manually to unstick it. PS, nothing runs if the fan door cover is open, as that shuts down the power to the whole furnace.
So.........it's a GSW 50 gallon which you either bought in Canada or smuggled in.
Even if you have a model with a shutter damper without a fan this is NOT a Power Venter and will need standard through roof flue pipe/chimney to establish draft and vent CO and exhaust gases atmospherically AKA Natural Draft. It will NOT vent sidewall without a fan induced draft
could be one of a few diff issues. firstly, the air pressure switch may be failing. check to ensure the inducer motor is providing enough air flow for the air switch to close. if inducer motor isn't creating enough air flow the faults is within the motor. If the airflow is enough, then fault maybe the air switch. you also need to check for any blockage in the exhaust. ensure no debris is blocking the vent going to outside
The vent motor starts with a call for heat from the thermostat. They are actuated by a separate relay that may be arched closed. Kill all power, turn the stat way down and turn the power back on. If it starts when the thermostat is NOT calling for heat, find and replace the relay.
need to go to furnace and watch it...if your hearing a hum the enducer draft motor may have failed...it should start first if there is no fault codes...reset unit by unplugging furnace or in some cases turning power switch off...turn thermostat on heat and watch unit ..the small enducer draft motor should start first the a ignitor glows and the should light...goodman units have a control board with a light on control board when it fails should flash a code and on the door or inside on lable should give you what that code is...hope this helps good luck
White wires are commonly the common connection (sorry for the pun). L2 is also considered the common leg. You did not mention if you are looking for high voltage or low voltage common. L2 is your high voltage leg. If the power venter ties into the thermostat circuit, W on the circuit board is the common terminal.